DirtyComanche

True.

I'm still liking Gangrene. Even if it isn't very nice. I've debated 'The Green Hole', as it will be a money pit (a hole to be filled with greenbacks), but there might be something along those lines that is better. Also on the radar is 'The Green Hornet', which might be overdone, but I'd be specifically alluding to a vehicle that appeared in several of the old Pink Panther movies. This vehicle was less than reliable...

Princess Auto has the other style (shorter and fatter ones) for $13.99/each normally, I think. And they go on sale from there. Of course they charge more for the yellow diesel ones. :???: So if anyone ever steals my 'gas cans' they're going to have a fun time getting their car to run with what's in them. :rotf:

You really don't need to drain the tank to do the sender or pump. I doubt a dealership would even do that. You can test the sender/wiring/gauge by pulling the whole assembly out and moving the float up and down manually. Just make sure it isn't going to hang up on anything when you put it back in.

I had a stack on my old truck. It's very pointless. I don't remember why I did it, I think just because it was easier than bending up a new pipe that went all the way to the back. There's a ton of space, as long as you still have leaf springs, to tuck the exhaust up so it won't be damaged. Just run a dump at the rear axle if you're afraid of crushing your tip. Or run it through the bumper if you're ballsy. But if you want to do it, it's your truck. Keep if mind if you put anything in then bed you will need a heatshield around it. Edit. Just saw you said stacks, implying two. That would be harder than just running the exhaust out of the back and even more pointless.

Yeah, it will be fine. Pull the cover and make sure everything is in good order and go from there.

Yeah, a Lada probably doesn't have clearcoat, I don't see Ivan and Boris thinking that it was a necessary step... It also probably has super nasty carcinogenic toxins in the paint, which help it to last longer anyways. :rotfl2:

Let's face it. 1992 was 24 years ago now. The only way clear coat from that era lasts that long is if it doesn't see sun.

Does anyone know what that black stuff they used on the factory connectors is? It honestly seems to work pretty well. I'm not exclusively a jeep guy, and I actually find the Jeep electronics hold up better than many of the other brands...

You've bumped an old thread. You would be best to post the specs of your MJ. The chances are that it will share driveline components with a like model XJ, and that will be the easiest way to get the needed parts to do a 4wd conversion.

The later (dual diaphragm) booster is the exact opposite of compact, just a FYI. Probably the best compact option is a hydroboost setup, but they are typically pricey as I am not aware of a junkyard option that doesn't need modifying to work.

Depends how far you stretch the word corrosion. They are oxidizing just sitting on the workbench. Either way they certainly can deteriorate.

I beg to differ. However, I will admit that a SYE is largely unnecessary for a street driven rig with minimal lift and good driveshaft angles. I was merely saying that if it was me at that point, being that his driveshaft doesn't fit, and he's already hacked the output, I'd probably just buy the flange or build the DIY one. However, I believe Jeep ownership is the anti-economics and will regularly purchase and install 'upgrade' parts that probably are addressing issues that only reside between my own two ears.

You want the correct engagement. If too short it may pull apart otherwise, which will probably destroy your driveshaft and perhaps your fuel tank and various other things. Conversely if you push the yoke in to try to make up for that, you might bottom it and break the tcase. I'd probably just order a SYE at this point.

I'm guessing that intake is discontinued. Can't seem to find anywhere that has it available. I'm debating doing something like it with my renix setup, but it's a little more of a pain to adapt to the throttle body on them.

The u-joints should be the same, assuming factory driveshafts.

The land of syrup, moose, asking politely for independence, and cheap Svt-40s.

It's only worth it to get rid of the stock airbox.

I don't think cutting down the slip yoke on the driveshaft was a good idea.

That sucks. Hopefully the justice system actually delivers.

I'm surprised you can find a rear D44 easily, but since you can I would say it's the best way to go. 35s are the marginal limit of a D30. At that point there is a lot of factors to consider. Wheeling style, power, weight, actual behavior of any added traction device, extra reduction, etc. With the gear style in the earlier D30s you will be able to break the ring and pinion at that point, and good aftermarket chromoly axleshafts, u-joints and a full case locker/spool will pretty much guarantee that outcome. If you're just going to tool around on trails, stock engine trans/tcase, I would not worry about it too much. If you want to do more than that I would go another route. Even the JK axle route, they changed how they cut the gears in them and they will actually hold up to 35s at a 5000lb operating weight. So, define what you intend to do and I will give you a more specific recommendation. Since you're regearing past the carrier split I can only assume you intend to buy a traction device.

The other problem is some of the 'obsolete' stuff is basically only made by Timken at this point. I suppose if there is a hole in the market that the Chicom manufacturers will pick up the slack though.

Are they actually going to cease production of all old bearings, or just not pursue contracts with OEMs in those sectors? If they cease production on old P/Ns of bearings, it will be ugly.

Sorry, it's a T50. I have an impact set, T30-T70 and E10-E22. Worth every penny.

T-45, IIRC. Might be a T-55 though. I'm going out to the shop right now so I'll check.