DirtyComanche

If you want them to only come on when in gear, it's pretty much what you said, wire them to be on with ignition using a relay, and use the grounding of the NSS to kill power to the coil/trigger in the relay (a transistor might be the cleanest option for that).

Yeah, it is, or should be. What year XJ?

As Eagle said, unfortunately that axle isn't much good for you. It's a 79 or older, I believe, and it's 64"~ wide. And it should be 6x5.5 bolt pattern. It's not a bad axle, it just doesn't match up well to anything that you probably want to do. It would pair excellent with a HP D44 front out of say a 79ish F-150 Supercab or something like that, which would be about 65" wide and driver's drop. You would need some Wagoneer knuckles/spindles/hubs for it though (or whatever) to make it 6x5.5 to match. But good luck finding one, and swapping it in would be a lot of work.

Trying to make budget 'race' parts. The typical brake swap for a full float axle is to use K-20 calipers and rotors. Both are overkill. So guys split the rotor and and run a smaller caliper, either from Wilwood, or a Toyota type of application (there's a few out there that can fit). It's a bit of a drag to do, but it does work. Otherwise, Explorer rear rotors actually will fit on an 8x6.5 hub, but it's marginal. The hat diameter is the issue, you have to grind a fair amount of the head off the studs in order to get them through. There is another way to do it, which would be to counterbore the hub and install the studs into it, and then bolt the rotor to the back of the hub rather than using the studs to retain it. Or you could do what GM did on the K-truck stuff and window the hat so there's clearance for the heads of the studs. But just weighing options and seeing if there's something easier. It isn't like the Explorer rotor is a terribly convenient starting point. Looking up the Grand Caravan ones, they're only about 1/4" larger in diameter than the Explorer ones, and given they're the same bolt pattern I'm not sure if the hat will be any larger. Unless there's an option I didn't try. I think a 6 lug application might be a bit better starting point if one exists. The Isuzu Trooper rotor is rather small though, otherwise it could have been a good candidate.

Does it still work?

Nah, I'm pretty sure it will fit. The one I had that didn't fit had #1 and #6 pipes turn towards the midpoint of the engine rather than turning downwards. It would have probably cleared fine on the 00+ intake, not even close on the Renix, and not quite on the early HO one. But you're going to have to try it. :cheers:

This is random. What's the largest solid (non-vented) brake rotor you've ever seen? Have you ever seen a solid brake rotor on a car/truck/van/whatever with an 8 lug axle (8x6.5 pref)? Scratching my head trying to come up with something close to fitting on something odd without going to a rotor and caliper that weighs way more than it needs to.

The pipes downturn pretty fast, so it hopefully will clear the intake.

Yeah, that's the built in trans cooler. :thumbsup:

I live in Prince George, winter ain't so cool (well, it is really cool actually, or cold), but there's an awful lot to do in the summer. :thumbsup:

Pretty certain that will be the plug for the trans cooler part of the rad, as 'almost' all rads come with the trans cooler in them and just have them plugged if you aren't using it. It's inverted flare, not much else uses inverted flare (nothing I can think of on an XJ/MJ, except brakes, which that is not).

I think WJ brakes are still the kinda only valid swap, and to me I don't see it being worthwhile because it's not exactly bolt on. The Grand Wagoneer is a very different animal as it is a fullsize (SJ) and the front axle in it is a 'more conventional' type with serviceable wheel bearings, external locking hubs, etc, and as said it's 6-lug. You can actually make these trucks stop well, just buy decent pads/rotors, make sure the proportioning valve is actually working, upgrade the booster, and make sure everything is properly bled and in good shape.

Bolt my throttle body up to the HO intake? Adapting the HO throttle body is the more better way. It's fairly well documented, you need to make some bits to adapt the TPS, you need a new throttle cable/bracket, and you need the fuel lines from the HO. That way you get a bigger throttle body, combined with the HO head you should make a noticeable amount more power.

Yes. Better off swapping to the HO head and intake though. Just don't buy an engine with one of the later (junk) 0331 heads. Or you could be lazy and just bolt the Renix intake to the HO head. Just make sure you use the Renix gasket if you do that.

Should be little checkvalve orifice thing on it, same as (better) butane lighters and such. I have the Weller (branded as Snap-On or Bluepoint) equivalent to that.

I had it go like that on a SBC one time. About the 4th time of doing it and not finding anything visibly wrong with the removed seal, I started looking for other issues. The crankcase breather was clogged and pressurizing the crankcase and blowing oil past the seal. Nothing wrong with any of the times I put the seal in. :doh:

X2. It's just a better product in the end, IMHO.

It's kinda funny because he's on Pirate, and can do amazing work... But has never mentioned that he has/runs/works for a shop or is a vendor. Guess there's a reason for that.

It's a short 23 spline input, so it will bolt to any 23 spline Jeep AW4, AX-15, NV3550, etc. Likewise it will bolt to the NWF setup, but call Kris? I think is his name, anyways, call NWF sales and ask, he does know what he's talking about. Same for any of the other doubler kits out there. It should work. You will need different yokes/output flanges. I don't think the JK case even has a speed sensor as it uses wheel speed sensors for everything. If you want a speedo the options would be to get an output flange style VSS and speedo that works with it (oh, that would be expensive), go to a VSS on one of the axles (if you have an ABS tone ring anywhere that can be done, also expensive and complicated), go to a GPS speedo (not terribly expensive, Autometer, Speedhut, etc all make them), use a free app on your cellphone and tape the phone to the dash (or use a holder, cheap either way), or mark the tachometer to indicate speeds in certain gears...

They're honestly not much (if any) different between brands. I bought RE ones because I can get them easier than other ones, nothing wrong with them (like most RE stuff). I wouldn't be worried as long as they came from any reputable manufacturer.

Doesn't work so well on an automatic. :rotf:

I tried a modern mirror swap. Did not go well. I actually got a 2nd gen Dodge Ram mirror on, and the improved visibility was amazing. However, to say it looked like Dumbo was a minor understatement. I actually looked at some Toyota mirrors and thought they might work, waiting to see if my friend ever gives them to me so I can try them.

The good thing about GM lock cylinders is you don't really need teeth on the keys. Or even the remotely right keys. Or sometimes even keys at all.

The problem with that thinking is that yes, that is the only real difference with the factory header, but there is other differences between the engines that may cause a problem with aftermarket parts. My cheap header hit the Renix intake, because the runners are much lower on it than on a HO intake. Of course the header I bought fit so poorly that it still didn't clear the HO intake either, but it was definitely close, as opposed to not even being possible. Also, the HO ones probably won't have the O2 bung in it, since it's normally in the downpipe/midpipe. But you would need to use that part from a HO anyways.

If you want to use a factory appearing switch, I think the fog light switch is the most robust of them. You could put it in the holder for the Power/Comfort switch though to maintain the appearance of that.