DirtyComanche

Nobody said it was hack, so I just bolted it back together. Interestingly enough the knuckle does not seem to be in exactly the same vertical position as the other side. But I'm thinking it's unrelated and more to do with the fact that there's no valid way to measure it short of pulling the carrier and using an alignment bar.

Do you need the EGR? I wouldn't reinstall it. Or the stock airbox or anything to do with it. HO models didn't even have EGR. And the stock airbox is kinda just a big piece of junk, IMHO, but that's subjective. Late model XJs have nice premolded hoses for the heater. You don't need the valve, they didn't have one. I'd be more concerned about the lack of a battery holddown than anything else I see so far...

To clarify, this is an early front axle, 87 most likely. Non-integrated caliper brackets, and probably the lighest and weakest casting in that the steering arm is windowed. I believe they changed the design of the knuckle at some point so the adjuster isn't even there, but I could be wrong. Anyways, I'm changing the ball joints and the adjusters for the lower ball joints are beyond rusted in. I cut the one side out and replaced it. Really don't feel like doing this side. It is set at the correct depth, and appears to be the same as the one provided with the new ball joint, tested be sliding the ball joint in and seeing how far it seats into it under light pressure. Picture because you probably have no idea what I'm talking about: Image Not Found Basically it's a split bushing that is the correct taper for the balljoint. It's threaded in to allow you to adjust where the knuckle sits relative to the axle, since the upper balljoints are a more or less floating design. There's a fixed measurement that it's supposed to be at (about .20"~), so it's not like it's something you normally mess with it. Is it hack if I leave it in there and reuse it? There is no way I'm getting it out short of cutting it out with a die grinder, like I did on the other side. Normally they're far less rusted and you can just bust them out with the correct crown socket.

Wow, way more expensive than I would have hoped. Slightly cheaper on Rockauto (you have to search the P/N to find it), but still expensive. No generics? Dorman Help! line or anything?

Also, you can drive the gauge without a multimeter, just by grounding the wire for it, or removing it from being connected. It will confirm that it works. The issues is without knowing what wire it is, or what pin it is in a connector, it's not a lot of help. If you look at the printed 'circuit board' on the back of the cluster you can figure out which one it is. But like I said, grab a copy of the FSM and look at the diagrams, I'd just post them for you but Photobucket is completely useless now and will not allow me to upload from my phone. Edit, I wasn't thinking and wrote a pretty bad bit of advice in the first version of this post.

And? It stays where it was when shut off on a Renix.

I'd suspect a broken wire over a bad gauge. IIRC, the Renix sweep is 0-88ohm with 88ohms being full, if there is a broken wire it sees 'infinite' resistance and just pegs the gauge. The gauges in the Renix rigs are actually pretty reliable. I'd suggest heading over to Cruiser's site and getting a copy of the FSM, and doing some prodding with a multimeter, rather than just throwing parts at it.

Don't buy a MJ to tear driveline parts out of for another MJ. It's a waste. Buy an XJ Cherokee... And as said, there was major changes in 87, and GM 60* pattern 2.8L stuff is very different from the Jeep pattern 4L stuff. The simplest solution for you would be to find an 87-90 XJ with a 4L/Auto and steal the transmission, tcase, front axle, front driveshaft, shifter linkage, and all the other little bits out of. You will need to get your rear driveshaft cut down and balanced, or a new one made. The bonus of getting the XJ is it may have other parts you want, such as bucket seats, center console, better instrument cluster, tilt column, tow hooks, etc, depending on how it is optioned.

There's a seller on Amazon that just sells nets... I bought a big cargo net from them for very little money. Would have to look in my history to tell you their name, but I'm certain they would have a net for you for way less, just add some carabiners to it, or something of that sort, and you could hang it up like that hammock thing. As a bonus you could get one that was big enough to use as a cargo net or divider net if need be. Edit, seller's name is 'Net World' - Duhhh..

Does anyone know if the J bolts that the fuel tank straps attach to are available? Or if not the 'OEM' ones, a generic that will fit? I'm going to order a tank, and probably the straps, and it looks like the bolts will likely break. Last time that happened I wound up welding up new ones, would rather save the time and effort if I can just order them.

It looked like the tank was only leaking around the seam (half way point) so I pumped it down below there. Nope, it's now leaking from everywhere else too, although not anywhere near as bad. So it the Spectra Premium one off Rockauto okay? I can get it out of one of their Canadian warehouses, so it's not actually that bad for price ($200~). Also, I somehow missed it but the ujoints in the front axle are destroyed on this thing. I'm planning to pull the front diff cover later tonight, there's a chance that there is no point doing anything with this axle beyond swapping it for another one.

I doubt it will care.

Since I filled the gas tank it decided to pull the ol' Exxon Valdez trick. Guess I'll start researching my options. Otherwise I got nothing done, ball joints weren't in stock so I only got them today.

Just the pressure bottle cap (it's not actually an overflow tank). If the system is drained you often need to bleed it. A steep hill may help with this.

Was pretty sidetracked today but did change out the track bar for the RC one. Honestly, I wish I had just sold the RC track bar and bought a better one that actually included a new bracket and didn't use a heim in single sheer (which they didn't even bother to safety washer, huh? I made a safety washer). They also used a fancy smancy F911 bolt at the axle end, rather than having you oversize the hole or something like that, which wasn't a bad idea other than I was left scratching my head at why they would use a course thread in the application, it rather defeats the gains from going to the F911 over a Gr8. Anyways, long story short, the track bar I took out was probably perfectly fine and I highly doubt it was in any way a contribution to the death wobble. There is one TRE (right at the pitman arm) that is a little suspect, otherwise all of the steering was tight enough. Looking at the tires the driver's side is noticeably cambered in at the top. Ruh-roh. The balljoints aren't completely falling out of that side at least, in that there was no play in the tire when I had it on jackstand, but that doesn't mean a lot and I didn't put a prybar in it. My guess is I need to do the balljoints, but I will do more investigating tomorrow. Failing that the housing or C is bent and it should be discarded. Looks like I'm in for yet again more work.

Everyone is happy! Yay!

If you're running the whole 97+ EFI, yeah, it needs a cat and a rear O2. Or at least I assume it does because that's how I recall it being set up. However, you can delete the cat and buy a cheap simulator rear O2 sensor and it will (probably) not throw a code. The rear O2 does not impact engine operation, it is just to monitor emissions. If there is something wrong causing a lean/rich condition right now, it should probably still throw a code... However, if everything is original, yeah, replacing the O2 sensors and the cat would not be a bad idea. Along with doing all the other normal tune up items.

Rough Country. You couldn't pay me to run their shocks. As it is I've been waffling on even installing the track bar I have (came with the truck, new in box). Maybe their quality has improved dramatically in the last 10 years, it's not like they're actually building their own shocks, but I just avoid the entire brand.

Also the oil pressure gauge doesn't zero, and when I filled the tank it took more fuel than it *should* have and wrapped the gauge well beyond the full line. Yup, more awesome electrical. Until I get a speedometer cable I can't even go by the tripometer for approximate fuel remaining, which I religiously do in anything I drive.

I finally got it to the point that I threw some plates on it and made the entire 25km round trip to the gas station and back. Proof that it went outside. 8) It has a critical speed of 86km/h and then the deathwobble sets in hard. :grrrr: Lack of caster isn't helping. So I ordered some RE LCAs and I will throw the crappy RC adjustable trackbar on it, and I have some steering parts around that should help too. RE coils I put in compared with the ones that were in there:

Took my MJ for a drive tonight... And it definitely needs some caster adjustment. It has a set of what I seem to recall are 2.5" RE lift springs in it, but they sit way high, I measured them at about 4" in my XJ. I've been looking all over the interweb and finding conflicting reports. Are the RE3705 fixed length lower control arms longer than the stock ones? Some places are claiming they're the same, others are saying they're 16", which is about bang on for what I need. I would just shim the LCA pockets but I will break the studs off the forks, and I can't get them any faster than I can get RE stuff. Also, my CA bushings are all pretty trashed, if I replace the lower arms I'm at least half way there... If I have no definite answer by tomorrow AM I will just order the adjustable ones (RE3720).

Had no instrument lights... Changed the headlight switch because it seemed suspect anyways (the headlights went out on me while checking the brakes). One thing led to another and I wound up pulling a few fuses out of the fuse panel. Bad news. Everything is corroded badly from the clutch/brake master leaking and water running in from the hood scoops. Now I can't get much of anything to work, and I don't want to pull the bulkhead connector to get at the back of the fuse panel, I'm guessing it will only make things worse. :fs1:

It's in the actual app settings for Tapatalk, Or so I can only assume, since I don't use it.

I can't upload to photobucket from my phone anymore... They broke their website a couple days ago when they rolled out the latest version of their app, so neither of them work it seems, lots of people are unhappy about it. PM me your email and I'll send you pictures of the diagrams.

I updated mine to more accurately reflect how it currently is.