big66440

Found a note on mine a few months ago, the guy was interested in buying it but told him no and told him to keep his eyes peeled on CL they still come up for sale reasonably priced.

That is a great looking steering wheel/ horn button combo. What brand is the steering wheel? :cheers:

Thanks for the response and sorry if I seem stubborn but how about these? http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-D30-D44-D50-D60-Heavy-Duty-Front-Ball-Joint-Sets-p-26182.html

Are Moog any good? think I may need some for my Comanche

I run either K&N, Parts Master ( Wix ) or Napa Gold.

Thou shall be proud of owning one of the last jeep built pickups before the re-introduction (of a jeep pick up) brings on the "bandwagon wave"

Garage journal?!! That's my second home :yes: :cheers:

Welcome to the forum, assuming your user name is "streetwedg" are you a Mopar guy also? if you are do you have any cool pics?

I was in the exact same situation a few months ago and as far as the AC evaporator core was concerned on my Comanche the 4 seasons one fit into the heater box but there was no way of installing the capillary tube/ thermostat so I sent it back and got the GPD one and it didn't fit in the heater box and the position of the tubes was nowhere near the original one which would have required the foam gasket that seals the box to the firewall to be severely deformed or I would have had to modify it Big Time. I finally decided to not install my evap core and either wait till I found a good NOS piece ( Seems very unlikely by now) or pull one from a JY, take it to a radiator shop to clean and test it and throw it in there,,,,, or I may just end up deleting the whole freakin thing who knows?

I'm going to be replacing my oil pan gasket and rear main seal soon and I was hoping to be able to use synthetic oil when finished but with all that mixed info on newer oil and the lack of ZDDP being bad for flat tappets I was wondering if you guys ( especially the guys running synthetic) would share what brand you use. I'm currently running Kendall 15W-40 diesel oil mixed with a quart of Brad Penn high Zinc 15W-40. Thanks

It was stable, It was just vibrating a lot like many others have said and the fact that my door seals aren't sealing real well doesn't help.

I took a nice long drive this last weekend and noticed things got a little scary after 75MPH on my Comanche, I know these trucks are not designed for high speeds so I was curious as to how fast you guys have driven your rigs? . :MJ 1: .

LOL!!!! this is true I took a long drive on the freeway in my MJ this last weekend and then drove my Wifes Trailblazer. My 5 senses were on edge at 70 MPH on the Comanche and couldn't even tell I was doing 85 on the Trailblazer :yes: ,,,, I still like my Jeep better :banana:

Bump to keep it going I had the fuel pump on my MJ give out on me coming up to a stop light on a busy intersection.I had to push the truck under a freeway and a bit more so I could make a right onto the closest small street. To make matters worse my wife was in the truck with me, it was night time and there were huge storm clouds over us and we had bags of groceries. We wound up walking home since none of the kids were driving yet, what really struck me was the fact that people behind me were actually honking as they drove around as if I was just having fun and doing it on purpose.

It might be, did you dilute it? I've worked with that stuff before and it is very caustic. If it happens to be permanent can you paint those parts with engine enamel? all the rubber stuff should eventually come back to normal though. I would recommend Simple Green next time it works just as good and it won't eat up parts.

Thanks for the tips, I'll give it a try :cheers:

My Comanche decided to burn an exhaust valve on me today and I have a 7120 head laying in the garage I'll be replacing my Renix head with, I know the Intake ports are a little different on the 7120 head and I will have to port match them so my Renix intake will work, I was wondering if a Dremel tool with a carbide bit would be enough to get the job done ? I know I can gring cast aluminum with it but have any of you tried to grind or port cast iron with it? thanks.

I'm going 2.5L. A 4.0 will not fit into a 2.5L engine bay. Unfortunately they are sized differently... False, they are exactly the same. I was told a 4.0 wouldnt fit in my 89... They said I would need to bang out room to make it fit?? what is true lol My 89 Comanche is a factory 4.0 just like many many many others on this forum. The person that gave you that info was wrong.

Id gor for #3 myself, then #2 and finally I wouldn't consider #1. For those of you saying that #1 and #2 wouldnt be road legal in your state,why is that? I thought it couldn't get worse than being a car guy and living in pesky California.

Did you adjust it? Assuming you have a Renix here you go http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1072534

MAN!! your Comanche reminds me so much of mine :thumbsup: :rotf:

That is a very good idea Mr Simon :thumbsup:

I'm going to keep it a daily driver but it will occasionally be used for off road, it will be a week end warrior type of build. I'm just a picky when it comes to putting projects together I like overbuilding things for peace of mind.

I'm thinking of upgrading my 89 4.0 2WD MJ to 4WD ( automatic), if you guys had time to search or save up for all the best parts possible such as transfer case, front differential, limited slip for both differentials to do the swap what would they be? I would really want to take my time and get a very nice 4WD set up going, thanks in advance.

Just curious,why was the long bed required for that package?