big66440

More than likely I'll be using Spidertrax spacers/adapters to bolt on my factory wheels. I personally don't like the idea of running re drilled rotors. Do you guys have an idea if the stub shaft that is installed in the 2WD models is really necessary ? Most of the WJ's I've seen at the junkyard are 4WD, thanks.

Thanks guys :thumbsup: , I don't have a PC at home but I will upload the pics from my phone to my computer at work and I'll do the write up.

Update- I successfully swapped the bearing, I wanted to clarify that either NSK 885586 or 665325 will work !!! the only difference is the length of the shaft on the 885586 is longer but it won't be an issue. I made a mistake and assumed the bearing was pressed out towards the rear of the bracket. The steps to replace it are quite easy,1 use a 3 jaw gear puller to remove the pulley (where the fan clutch bolts on to) from the shaft, 2 press the bearing out using a ball joint press tool ( looks like a big heavy C clamp), 3 press the new bearing in using the same tool you used to press it out, 4 press the fan clutch pulley on with the ball joint press and you're done !! these tools can be found easily at Harbor Freight or they can even be rented from the big auto parts chain stores.I took pictures and I will see if I make a write up on how to replace it if you guys are interested.

Normal mine were the same way when I did them recently.

Hey guys I was wondering about the famous WJ brake conversion on my 2WD Comanche. I'm not interested in the crossover steering, just the brakes. I was wondering if there was a hub assembly that could be used to retain the 5x4.5 wheel bolt pattern? as well as any info on actually using 15" wheels with the Akebono brake calipers? I'm running the factory 9 slot steel wheel and would like to keep them if possible. Also will I still have to upgrade the booster and master cylinder combo? I already have the 96 XJ dual diaphragm set up. As always thank you in advance all for the help.

I've found a few in my local pick a part, I like "packing" the worm gear wire with grease and open up the bend just a bit with a flat head screwdriver to reduce the resistance a bit and extend the life of them. If you end up replacing them you can use nuts and bolts instead of rivets as well. I wish the engineers would have used solid gears instead of this ridiculous design :shake: BTW Check e bay, I've seen a few used ones before.

I've never done one myself but it shouldn't be difficult at all with our 4.0's, I've done intake/exhaust manifold gaskets a few times and once you have them removed pulling the head seems like a breeze ( except for the fact that the head is HEAVY), if you end up buying it DO NOT buy cheap knock off gaskets, I work at an engine parts warehouse and you get what you pay for.

I had the same exact problem before my last oil change, I'm using a K&N oil filter and NAPA synthetic oil ( re labeled Valvoline ) now and haven't had the issue.

I know some people have done it successfully, . If everything goes to plan I'll post the correct part number necessary for the replacement. The bearing the guy uses in the video has a few bad reviews on Summit and Amazon's website, I do not want want to run a junk bearing which is why I have the NSK 665325 on the way, I already have the NSK 885586 and it won't work on my 89 set up. I hope I can figure this out and help save some people money, I know the dealers ask an arm and a leg for these fan bracket assemblies.

If you have the original single diaphragm booster the pedal is naturally a bit "mushy" and does seem to go lower than the average vehicle from what I can remember, that was part of the reason I went with the 95-96 XJ dual diaphragm set up.

What a small world, I know exactly where Egge is we drive by there on my way to my in laws all the time :D . I'm going to wait for my order to come in and see what happens, luckily it's not too much work from what I've seen.

How far are you from Phoenix? About a 5 1/2 hour drive, I was able to find a company that had it in stock its called locateballbearings.com. I placed an order and I should probably be receiving it the beginning of this coming week. I will keep you guys posted on the progress.

Nope, I'll see if contacting companies that specialize in bearings online will get me anywhere.

All I can see is "325 R " and the end of the shaft, so I'm assuming it's going to be the 665325?. Based on the info I've seen on the net the bearing type is called a " integral bearing shaft " similar to what's used on water pumps so the bearings alone cannot be replaced.

My fan hub bearing is growling and has some play, I really don't want to grab one from the JY if I can avoid it. I've spent a few hours looking through different threads on the net that show the bearing alone CAN be replaced. I have actually gone out to buy one of the NSK Part numbers ( 885586) that people claim can be used as a replacement but the OD of the new bearing seems too big to be pressed into the AC bracket, my original bearing measurement from the rear of the AC bracket is .940" if I'm not mistaken. There is a second NSK # that people claim will fit ( NSK 665325) that I cannot find any information on or someone that even sells it, can any one of you guys help me figure this out? or have any information on the NSK 665325 bearing number ? Thank you all

Good to know you're OK :thumbsup:

Not a problem :thumbsup:

I've seen many of his videos as well, the guy is really talented. If your interested you can find those scanners on ebay, I've used it before and they are really useful.

So you're saying that installing a new High Volume oil pump will cause the "crush" ( which is the ONLY thing that keeps bearings in place ) to somehow be decreased allowing main,rod and cam bearings to "float" away and seize onto the rotating crank shaft or camshaft? :hmm: Crush? Sheesh, never mind, cause nowhere did I say it "it will cause" I was stating as was told to me by an engine builder who does it for a living that it is possible. Reason I was told this is that my lower end, and lifters sounded noisy to me, I was wanting to quiet it some, thinking low oil pressure was the culprit, granted I have low press at idle, but is in the middle of the gauge at speed, His recommendation, if I insisted on a new oil pump was to replace it with a stock spec oil pump (which I never did). Four years later and a bunch of 4k+ runs later, engine still going strong, piston slap still sounds the same, kind of like a diesel when its idling. Miles on the engine...really? Ive had this truck since I think 08, 2 clusters, 3 transmissions, 2 transfer cases later...odometer says I think about 170k but who knows for sure. When the engine decides to give up, I just pull one from stock or finish the HO I have on the engine stand. What do you say we call it a truce (I'm not a big fan of arguing on the internet) I didn't mean to come off as arrogant or a "know it all " with my previous statement :cheers: . I re indexed the distributor and replaced one of my cracked vacuum caps and it's running much better :D, I can't thank Cruiser enough for putting so much time and effort into teaching us what he knows :thumbsup: .

So you're saying that installing a new High Volume oil pump will cause the "crush" ( which is the ONLY thing that keeps bearings in place ) to somehow be decreased allowing main,rod and cam bearings to "float" away and seize onto the rotating crank shaft or camshaft? :hmm:

Thanks cruiser, I'll update you guys on what I come up with.

There's no noise coming from the bottom end and I have great oil pressure so that eliminates the spun bearing idea, I'm starting to think the distributor index may have been thrown off a bit when I pulled it to prime the new pump? It's not a night and day difference like I struggle to get on the freeway and up to speed, it could also just be my mind playing tricks?

I replaced my oil pan gasket, rear main seal and flexplate. I thought it would be a good idea to put a new pump and screen while I was in there.

I just replaced my stock oil pump with a high volume one and I'm surprised as to how much of a power loss it caused, I was wondering what you guys think of using synthetic 5W-20 instead of 10W-30 to get back some of that lost power? do you guys think it will be too thin and cause damage? thanks.

I've done it once using Permatex " right stuff " around the intake ports only, I'll be replacing another gasket ( not the same one ) and my shop manual doesn't mention using sealant. I started thinking and got a little paranoid that maybe the use of silicone would give room for failure in the future :hmm: . Although that " Right Stuff" along with "Gasgacinch" are true blessings from the car gods :thumbsup: .