Exgrayxj

Jeep10 had the exact same symptoms, and belt eating. It was the PS pump pulley not on quite far enough on a replacement pump done before he got the mj. Pay very good attention to the pulley alignment.

My MJ! :clapping: I got in, started it up, and saw the card, WTH? Thanks for the kind words, it's no jewel, not by a long shot. More of a work in progress. I see MJs every day on the road around the county, I am always surprised to see one, still on the road after all these years, most are probably on their last owners, will be in upullit next. Noticed Danny Len in one of your posts, then found your build, and your dad works there...small world. I live in Howey, and cruise the dealers for fun...though seldom find anything that interests me.

Got into my MJ to come home, found under the wiper ... CC card and a note from Red Rocker. Guess he went to the dump, spotted it. Thanks for the kind words Rocker, but it ain't all that nice, just gets the job done. :clapping: Jim

In addition to all the other excellent suggestions let me add, check that the vacuum tubes for crankcase ventilation are open, not clogged with crud. I have found clogged lines in two of my 4.0s, getting things working in this area stopped my "rear main" leak. Excessive internal pressure will push oil out wherever it can.

Center caps are only decorative, nothing is going to get in the wheel bearings. Pic the other day looked like Danny Len Pontiac in the background. Do you work there?

Are the wheel studs too short in this pic or is this just an illusion? Looks like not much thread engagement on the lug nuts. :dunno: I have always been told that thread contact should be equal to diameter of stud, ergo 1/2" stud, 1/2" depth, rule of thumb. Maybe they are deep lugs? :dunno:

Every time I see this truck I am in awe of how nice and clean it is! And well done! Do you ever sleep? :thumbsup:

:roll: I am going this afternoon to look at a non running, parked undercover since '07, 1988 pioneer, seemingly equipped same as yours, 4.0/5spd, 2wd and from pics about the same condition. Said to have been parked due to sickness, and mechanic has looked at it and declared it to be fit, only needing a fuel pump, tho maybe a tank is in order also by now. Turns over (wish they hadn't done that on dry cylinders) very minor floor rust, couple places size of quarter. Decent white paint. Nice interior. Small tires, styled steel wheels. Asking price is $1000, and seems firm on that, claims to have several lookers coming Saturday. Non running is the key here... I am thinking of conversion to 4wd, only reason I would buy it. :dunno:

:hijack: When I recently replaced my tank, I found the roll over valves were loose in the grommet. This could be a source of water. My tank had water,sand, and RUST. :fs2: Local Jeep/Dodge dealers said "$15 each, not in stock, and must prepay". Found them on Ebay for $8.40, plus shipping in AZ. Called Orlando Dodge, in stock, and $11.20. Worth the drive for me to have them asap. I think the separator will help, you will need to stay on top of it, as it fills, but if you have lots of water the tank probably has to come out anyways.

$200 with gate and lights is a good deal. My closest upull lists truck beds for $66, plus $4 core (?) minus tailgate and lights. Of course, none that I could use. Waaay better than fixing a junky one. Good score.

Probably an unwanted opinion, but this could be a sign of a badly worn thrust bearing in the engine. :roll:

An engine compartment that clean should be against the law. :bowdown: :bowdown:

;) I can't catch him but I think he's rolling his own...

Jim I have no personal knowledge but I am pretty sure I have seen the 3.4 GM mentioned as a bolt in for the 2.8, and a much better engine. :smart:

On the 91-95 OBDI MJ/XJ HOs (and perhaps the OBDII system also, not sure) disconnecting the neg cable causes what I consider an issue. At rest, no IGN ON, residual memory current (microamps) is constantly fed to the OBDI ECU to retain it's open/closed loop memory. Disconnecting the neg cable causes the ECU to lose it's memory instantly. For the ECU to completely "re-learn" it's residual settings, it needs to be driven about 100 miles or so, especially on a modified engine. It's a minor PITA as the idle is always lower during the process, and sometimes causes stalling when in stop and go traffic. Preventing this loss of ECU memory is easy by hooking up a common 9VDC battery with alligator clip leads attached across the neg battery post and cable (observing correct polarity) before disconnecting the battery neg cable. A healthy 9V battery will retain the ECU's memory for days since the draw is so small while you are working an electrical problem on your rig. :bowdown: Now that you mention it, I have a little gizmo that holds a 9v battery and plugs into the ciggy lighter plug, just for that purpose...think I got it from Snappy, years ago. I had pretty much forgotten about it. i mainly used it so the radio wouldn't forget itself.

On a previous xj I was having a similiar problem, if it was parked for more than a day or so, flat battery. Just by accident I was poking around under the dash, and found the emissions box was warm, even with nothing on. Unplugged it and tossed it, no more problem. My neighbor to the rear has a Nissan pickup. He backs into his sloping driveway. And every night for about the last two weeks I notice his brake lights on, all evening and into the night. Not on when I get up for work. Would seem simpler for him to fix than have a dead battery every morning. :doh:

I am surprised Rob hasn't spoken yet...everybody all together now...get the build date :peek:

Not trying to be a wise @$$, but have you considered that the replacement dist may have a problem? I would stick the chirper back in just for a trial. I know the feeling... :wall: Couldn't resist, Hornbrod

:thumbsup: Very nice bumper, I like the side protection. Wish there were a better solution for the tag, seems to be a recurring problem. Your fab man does nice work!

I have a 89 xj waggy with a 93 Z28 LT1, and trans. Aluminum heads, reverse flow cooling. All stock. 160 degree t stat. Two electric fans, the stock aux one and another to replace the stock engine driven one on the 4.0. Second fan runs full time. Stock aux fan comes on at 210, cools it back down to 180. Up until a couple months ago it used a stock replacement radiator, two row. Cooled pretty much ok. The plastic tank split, so I replaced it with a Champion fully aluminum two row. Everything else remained the same. Now the aux fan rarely comes on, temp stays around 180 most of the time, even in around town traffic, as long as moving some. I do have a aux tranny cooler, plumbed with the one in the radiator, and a trans temp guage, had this before. I had been thinking of venting the hood, there is not much room around the engine for air flow, but don't think it is needed now. And I do have working a/c.

You are not alone, I either pull the coil lead or otherwise kill the ign, when I can I fill the filter. Knock on wood, never a problem, but I don't currently own anything newer than 1990, except the bike, and that is '02. The filter fill thing is from being weaned on BB mopars, with the flat filter and external pump, start a few of them with a dry filter and listen to the rattle, it will scare ya! I even do it on my Harley.

:doh: No wonder I can't find a tailgate!

:shake: WOW! I am glad this popped up! According to Wildman's pic, I just found that I have a XJ sender in my stock w/tray shortbed tank! :idea: No wonder things don't go together well, and the steel lines are bent/twisted. My stock, non tach dash gas gauge worked fine, but after swapping in the tach panel, my gauge read backwards, tho the low fuel light worked in the normal fashion. It appears that the renix xj guage wire is not reversible, so it may be that the gauge panel I used had at sometime been replaced with a HO dash gauge. I'm getting another set of gauges, after I get the tank headaches straightened out. :fs1: :doh: And my mj is a '90.

The hose between the master and slave, or the slave itself. :agree: It is never as simple as just the master :wall: ...

Job title says "Equipment operator", means, dozer, loader, tractor, semi and straight truck, compactor, lawn mower, you name it. Mostly truck driver/wheel holder. Best part of it is it is close to home, only 6 miles. :wall: