Exgrayxj

About the same mileage I get... My money is on clogged fuel pickup strainer. After it quit, and sat for 20 min or so, would it start and run normally? Chances are running it so low (out) on fuel it sucked up whatever is remaining in the little resevoir in the bottom of the tank, and the strainer is clogged. These in tank pumps rely on being submerged in gas to cool them, could have been the final blow, also. On mine, when I finally figured out what had already been hacked, ( I had a xj guage/pump in the mj tank that had been JB Welded to fix leaks, apparently forced into place) and the massive amount of rust/sand? junk in the bottom, I got a tank without the resevoir and a new xj guage/pump. Things work fine now, I have run it down to less than 1/4 with no problems, tho I try to keep it above 1/2, who knows when I might have to go somewhere when stations aren't open, and once full it doesn't cost any more to keep it at that level than run it lower and risk having problems...

On my 89 XJ, I long ago bought a 97 up xj booster/master (ebay) because at the time that seemed to be the most commonly done, and planning on doing it soon, that is what I bought. FF a few years, my original booster gave up, so I figured it was time. I had to modify my pedal arm (drill new pushrod hole about 1 or 1 1/2" lower) and make up new lines from master to dist block, due to the newer mster using bubble fittings. I got two steel flex lines from a Concorde or Intrepid that were plenty long enough, and cut and reflared the dist block end (same size tube, just different fitting/flare). That was mainly to have the "cool" braided steel... Works great, better brakes than I ever had, well worth the trouble, and the trouble really wasn't much, just part of the learning curve. I think my pedal is still higher than it was, but not a problem for me. At the same time I had the pedal out to drill the new hole I narrowed the right end of the pedal about 1 1/2", my work boots kept getting tangled with it and the throttle. You will also need to drill the pushrod hole out to 5/8", for the bushings. Thought about using the newer pedal arm, but didn't have it, and didn't want to make another 60 mile round to the u pull... just to see if it would work. Oh, and used a late 80's Chevy brake light switch (plunger style) using an existing bracket to get rid of the ford style one in there, that is the reason for the flat being made on the end of the pushrod. Sounds a lot more complicated than it really is, really it is just simple mechanics. All that being said, I now have read that the 95-96 xj is virtually a bolt on, with the same results, and when I do the MJ that is what I will most likely use. In either case, get everything from the donor, including (especially) any spacers between the booster and firewall. In my case with the xj, I think with another spacer I might not have needed to redrill the pedal arm, though the angle of the dangle seemed different to me, the pushrod now seems to be angled down from straight into the booster...BUT ...I HAVE GREAT BRAKES! Fear not, just remember, brakes are a good thing to have, and have working properly.

I agree. Last tank on my mj,4.0/auto/3.55 gear/265-75-16/corrected speedo (according to radar signs), all short work commute miles, was 12.56mpg...sigh. My LT1/fi/700r4/3.55s/corrected speedo, XJ does the same commute at 14.5-15, best on a 1500 mile trip has been juuust under 22. PS I bought a LJC just for that reason...I hate it.

Ad is still up...says interior is rough...mine was/is rougher than that appears, ran on 4-5 cylinders but did drive 100 miles home with my Harley in the back...mine not as straight, but original paint. All in all, except for the paint job, that one looks to be better than mine was. I paid $1200.And only recently got it fairly reliable, still has a VERY noisy dana 35. Used wheels/tires, my time and some jy parts, some new stuff, I am over 2k probably now... Niceville would be about a 5-600 mile round trip for me... IF you really want a mj...don't wait! $$$ talks. LOUD.

Yes, this. Rust never sleeps, the small stuff will get bigger. Trust me on this. 33 years in Vermont taught me something. And the new liquid ice melting crap is worse than salt.

I don't plow much snow anymore, but when I lived in Vermont most of the plow guys were beefing up the plow blades, especially when Dodge started using the Meyers. Fishers were heavier, and stood the commercial plow usage better. Leaving the blade on for normal driving is hard on any truck, and especially on coil sprung rigs. Fords with coils took a hard beating. A plow on a xj or mj will beat the hell out of everything. Your blade already needs some welding. In my area of Vt many of the guys with Meyers added reinforcement and another pair of trip springs. Most took the shoes off after the ground froze. Of course that is even harder on the blade. For your own use only, some welding, and take it off when not needed it will probably be ok. I never did think it was a good idea to hang 4-500 lbs five feet in front of the frame on a unibody.

AHA! I thought someone would take the bait! Thanks for the tip, btw. Knock on wood, things are working correctly now, with a new fan clutch,shroud, tstat, tank, AND A VOLVO CAP, it has made me a happy camper! Now on to the rear axle...

Just did this on my xj, used a 99 xj booster/master. The pushrod is indeed longer. If forced to use the existing hole on the brake pedal it put the pushrod in a bind on the edge of the booster neck. And made the pedal high. I eyeballed where I thought it needed to be (I think about 1 1/2" lower) and drilled a new hole for the pushrod bolt. If I was to do it again (and I probably will, on the mj) I will probably get the later pedal, and save drilling the pushrod and pedal. BTW, I got a Chevy brakelight switch, and used the existing bracket to mount it, did away with the funky Ford style one. Great to have brakes. Edit: While I had the pedal out, I cut 1 1/2" from the right side of the steel pad, following the same angle, then trimmed the pad the same amount between the ribs, the little rib on the backside needs a little trimming also, and glued it in place with some "liquid nails" (don't laugh, it's what I had handy), put a zip tie around it to hold it in place while it dried, this gave me some more foot room, my right foot thanks me daily and I no longer am hitting the brake/throttle at the same time. I don't have to C#*@ my foot to the tunnel now.

Mine, with a temp guage in the tank comes on at 210, and coincides with the guage. There is a Napa cap, made for a Volvo, #703-1396, that will not blow off. I can't take credit for finding this, but mine is now holding pressure, to the point I found I also had a seam leak on my chinee made tank. So I went to the jy and got an old original that works fine... A wise old codger on here told me about the cap when I had the same problem. Can't remember who tho. Also, I put one of those coolant flush things (to hook a hose on) on the highest point of my heater hose, filled things up with the cap off until I got only coolant, and have had no problems since. Been a couple months (I think) That sound you hear is me knocking on wood.

I was looking thru Jeepforum, found a good series of posts about the heater/cowl flange seal leaking, and the best way to repair it was removing the dash and heater assembly, to repair the missing/ wrongly located/shrunk seal. Discouraged me so badly I just remember to park it right side high now. Most of the time.

On my '90, last fill up netted me 13.46 mpg. Some trips back and forth to work,(6 mi ea way) a little other driving and a lot of idling, to see if the overheating problem was any better. And, YAY! it is. Hoping for better next tank. 4.0 AW4 4wd 265/75/16 tires, corrected speedo.

I get it Jim. The baby showed you. Now maybe she can show me ...

I just changed from 15x8 Canyons with 30-9.50s to a set of 16x7 Icons, came with 265-75's, much taller. They are nearly worn out, but will work for a while. Amazingly, only very slight clearance problems, at full lock rubbed sway bar and lower control arms, adjusted the steering stops cured it. It is really amazing how small an adjustment at the stops it takes to solve the problem. Still want to lift it a little, just to level it out.

:waving: Hey, Rocker, you forgot about me! I am the white sport 4wd at the dump. Haven't been driving it much, fighting with running hot and junk tire problems among other things. :wrench: Fixing little problems. Driving the super waggy. (LT1/xj Wagoneer) In my travels around the county I see a couple different ones seems like every day. Went to upullnpay the other day, ran into young guy Elijah with a white mj, he parked next to the xj. When we got to talking inside about Jeeps, he told me he parked next to me, so we spent the next hour or so looking at each others jeeps. I am always surprised at the number of them I see still being used.

My 35 is noisy, I don't dare go too far from home... Been doing a little checking, it looks like the full size (72-84) Dodge 1/2 ton axle is about 3" overall wider than the xj/mj, would have bigger brakes, same bolt pattern (all 2wd and some 4wd) and could be 8 3/4" (drop out chunk) or 8.25". I am thinking that since some mj guys run 1- 1 1/2" spacers on the rear, this might be a good source for replacement/stronger rears, and nearly bolt in, with brakes as a plus. I found one, 3.55/suregrip 8.25, for $200, but don't dare drive the 200 or so miles round trip to go get it... I know it doesn't have the 29 spline, but doubt my tired 4.0 will tear it up.

AHA! Thank you for including THAT part of the information, I will pick one up tomorrow! :waving:

[quote name= I got a new cap from NAPA' date=' then from Jeep, That's EXACTLY why you use the Napa 703-1396 cap. To solve that problem!!![/quote] Miss something? :huh???:

I am pretty sure I could find you one here, but it is a pretty long way to come get it ... bump.

I am in agreement with you, my xjv8 .cap would not hold enough on the threads of the neck to maintain pressure, I did the same as you, hose clamp. Replacement tank so it would be perty. I think that problem was caused by an aftermarket tank, I got a new cap from NAPA, then from Jeep, and still had that problem. I have now gone to a aluminum radiator and done away with the remote pressure tank (well, it is there still, but now being used as overflow tank, so there is no pressure). My opinion is that the aftermarket (and we all know where THOSE come from)tank has slightly undersized threads. As of a couple days ago that damn tank is back in service though, on the mj. Crummy 22 year old tank split. I already have noticed the cap seems to not tighten...and I thought aging it would make it better. :wall:

Got mine on ebay, two row, cools my 350 Chevy powered XJ better than the 3 row copper one was in it, runs about 10 degrees cooler, and the copper one was only replaced because the tank split, not because of overheating. Using two electric fans, with the a/c running, it will idle seemingly forever at 180-185. Thought about a 3 row, but consensus here was that it wasn't needed. I "think" it was around $185? So far so good, been about a year.

Yes, that is the place, usually you are referred to a young girl who gives you the third degree, any requests to look around or at something specific require a yard monkey to go with you... It was about a year ago I was there last,they were getting ready to crush, and was the only mj in a truck specific yard. I made a visual inventory of the mj, but so far have managed to find the things I needed without need to go back. I have other things I need worse, so haven't been back. Just letting you know, is all. Depends on how bad you want one, I guess. If I find another I will let you know. Maybe,might go looking today, got the day off. Jim the dump guy

When you say just did joints, do you mean ball joints or axle u joints? My 90 has a click at the left wheel, it is the axle joint, and is getting worse, but the noise from the 35 mostly covers it up. :mad:

Probably shouldn't tell you this, cause I was going to get it, but Bronco Dan has exactly 1 MJ, a black one, and last time I was there it had a bed liner, don't think there was a tail gate. It's been a while, maybe he crushed, he was getting ready to a while back. Jim white sport at the dump... :roll:

Didn't I say...I think it will be plug and play? Why would they change that? Not that I had ANY idea...glad it worked out for you, though I wish more that it would have worked in super Waggy. :cheers: Jim

I have one...'94 Cherokee, From England. Housing broken, cluster appears ok. Sort of a long story. Ebay purchase. I am computer illiterate, can't post a pic. Look for pm or email