lostissues

ok, ordered some steel rivnuts, that should take care of it. Thanks guys :cheers:

I plan on using some blind rivet nuts to install some stuff on my truck, but I have aluminum rivets. I have heard that putting aluminum and steel together will eventually cause the metals to react to each other. Is this going to be a problem? one thing I want to do is use them to attach a steel panel to the inside of my half door. any info would be great, Thanks, Jonathan

OK so I have a line on a 97+ xj that was rolled. what would you say is the bulk of the work needed to make the swap? looking through the builds that have done it on here and the one on jeep forum it looks like the biggest problem is the firewall. getting that to fit correctly. other then that it looked like figuring out the gas tank which you seam to have come up with the easiest and most effective solution. I was looking for the work involved in just the drive train swap (motor, tranny, dash) and not so much the exterior (already have the 97 front end and fenders) and interior such as the seats. is everything else just pretty much swapping parts? what other parts need fabrication or a lot of work to get swapped? lots of questions sorry, just seeing if it will be worth the trouble to make the plunge :banana: Thanks for any info, Jonathan

so with the fuel system all you had to do was use a TJ tank/sender combo and use a TJ cluster correct? or were there other stuff that you had to do to get things to work?

he mentions electric brakes after the towing package, maybe he means it is equipped with electric brake controls for a trailer? Even so still not able to justify the price.

AWESOME! congrats. If I ever get around to it I would love to do a full 97+ swap. And if I ever do this will be one of the main resources I will use.

I have had 2 boxes rrod, I was able to send them to Microsoft and they fixed/replaced them. give that my xbox number a call and see if they will do anything, they did extend the warranty out longer so it may still qualify. if not read up on fixes at llamma.com or join a forum like xbox-scene (it may be xbox360-scene now I dunno but a google search will bring it up.) they also talk a lot about modding and case mods.

My horn is already plugged in and this plug is on the passenger side. I believe the dual tone is achieved with 2 horns, one pass side and one drives side. so that is a horn plug, just a second horn plug.

yea that, with the pictures and stuff :clapping:

well I dropped the tank a while ago and discovered that the sending unit kind a broke (tubes where it goes into the tank broke loose on the sender and were able to rotate) so we JB welded the heck out of them and replaced the fuel pump. this was before winter and I was able to drive it around and it seamed to be OK. I have driven it a couple times since and noticed it doing the same thing though not quite as harsh. when accelerating sometimes it will work OK and then bog down it sometimes bogs until I press the pedal more, sometimes pressing the pedal more will not do anything. it sounds like it wants to go but it hesitates. I have new plugs, wires, rotor, new pump, stock tank. other things I have not checked that people have suggested are injectors, exhaust leaks, TPS. what is more likely? easiest to test? cheapest to replace?

good to see that the J bolts were the correct ones. what did it cost total shipped? when I add it to the cart and get an estimated shipping the total comes out to 53 bucks! on a 12 dollar part! that is 41 F#&*@$g dollars to ship! the ones on Ebay are the same price and cost 20 bucks to ship. it is ridiculous how much they rape people on shipping, these are small pieces that do not weigh much. I think I will make some out of some heated up bolts from the hardware store unless the online calculator is a mistake. also where did you go about getting the new straps?

use a flathead screwdriver to pry the clip in an outward direction then pull the whole wiper arm off. you don't have to pry to hard it just needs to move a little. if it does not come off try wiggling while pulling.

it takes a bit of work to get it to fit is what I have been reading. the other thing is that the gauges will not work without an entire engine swap unless someone found a way and I am not aware of it.

had the same issue, replaced the throttle cable and problem was gone.

if you like them that is all that matters. I personally don't like them because the only function the provide are looks and steps. I take mine into the woods and if I had them they would get destroyed.

I think the thing is the pic you are looking for is called a J bolt. I have been looking for them also because the threads on mine have pretty much rotted away. I found this http://www.restorationperformance.com/s ... lts/Detail but not sure if it is the same as the ones on our trucks. I may just have to go the route of buying a bolt of similar size and heating then bending the head over.

bed bolt locations

If you ever seen how automotive body panels are produced, you would know that they can't just be banged out. most body panels are made in multi ton presses in dyes that stamp out one part or body line in a panel at a time. If jeep kept the original dyes for these panels, that would be the best way to reproduce the panels. But with the demand so low, if they even still have the dyes, theres no way they can make the cost low enough on them to justify producing more of them. well it shouldn't be to hard to get at least the angles of the bends in the bed sides. not so much the tail light housing, bottom corner. throw some sheet metal in a break and bend up some reproductions (a member had just that done not long ago). it would work out because the majority of our trucks rust out around the rear flairs. and I understand the concept of production price vs the demand, I'm not saying any one should run out and start a Comanche bed side reproduction business, I was just saying its an idea and would be sweet for our club if it did happen.

I think getting a CAD rendering of it would be a nice idea, just to have the exact measurements in case someone wants to have a shop reproduce one. Or drop it off at a metal shop and have them start banging out copies. hanging on the wall would be nice but kinda a waste.

97+ motors have different wiring, I tried to figure it out but then I realized that my problem with the wipers not working was the circuit breaker on the bottom of the fuse box. though now they work like the OPs where slow is slow and fast is slower then slow. I may go back and get a 97+ and wire it in and hope it works better.

nice what do you plan on doing with the roof gap?

even if the cables look ok I would replace them anyway. but get larger gauge wires. There is a site that sells them but I cannot remember what it is. or just make your own I made some they are mid way down this page. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1678&start=45

what do you mean you kept blowing the rubber ring out of it? like are you talking the sub rubs up against the back of the seat and wears on the surround? what kind of sub is it? what are you using to power it? most of the times if you have riped or cut surrounds it is because something interfered with it and damaged it or because it was rubbing and wearing down. what kind of box do you have it in? best would be a truck box it is angled so it will fit behind a seat. if you are still having problems you may have you seat to far back and will have keep it pulled forward so not to interfere with the movement of the sub. suggestions would be see if you can get a truck box to fit without having any rubbing, make a custom sub box, or get another sub like a bass tube or other like it.

first stuck vehicle recovery of the year for me today. heating van went off the road and into a ditch. drove down and pulled out my recovery bag and let them use a strap to pull back wards (they already had another truck trying to pull him out) that managed to pull him back and slide toward a larger ditch. pulled my truck to the front and winched him forward and back onto the road. Snow = 0 Comanche = 1

all you should need it a home receiver kit, most of the units should come with the car kit. the home receiver comes with a dock, ac adapter, home antenna (that I'm pretty sure needs to see a southern exposure) and a cable to provide L and R audio. other then that you can also look into boom boxes if that is something you would like. also XM and Sirius are one in the same now I'm pretty sure.