lostissues

does this mean that the Cherokee rear bumpers have the same issue?

just checked some vacuum things, the fuel pressure regulator has 16-17 in.Hg vac the input of the EGR solenoid had the same, the output has nothing and when I unplugged the electrical connector I still had nothing. does that mead bad EGR solenoid?

I don't think the problem has anything to do with the floods, I think the floods are just the reason he cannot work on his truck.

no ballast resistor on my truck

ok, if I go to the junk yard I will grab a tps and fuel filter just to check.

First thing first is I @#$%ing hate the fact the the backspace button doubles as the page back and when you do that all of the $#!& you typed in this @#$%ing window disappears :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: sorry, back to REtyping all of this again OK trying to figure this out still. same symptoms. new parts are: fuel pump, fuel filter, cap, plugs, rotor, wires, cat, adjusted TPS, checked voltage at fuel pump, orange wire is getting 12 volts and black is getting ground. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/87-4 ... ll-990797/ this is the thread on Jeepforum I made with all the diagnostics so far. over there we have it narrowed down to a possible bad fuel pressure regulator because removing the vacuum line (which does have suction) did not affect (effect) the fuel PSI at all. my question is if its a bad FPR it would be either stuck open or closed right? so if its stuck closed then the fuel pressure in the fuel rail would be high (its not) if it were stuck open then the fuel pressure would be low right? but I did pinch the return line with a pair of pliers and it had no affect (effect?) on the fuel PSI. does this sound like a reasonable assumption? I really want to drive my truck and unfortunately my inspection ran out this month :fs1: so I need to get this fixed and the get the truck inspected somehow. any help would be greatly appreciated.

looks like he is pretty adamant about no "buy it now". I bet he is kicking himself hard if someone offered to buy it now for something over a penny :clapping:

the wipers have a circuit breaker, it is on the bottom of the in cab fuse block. its silver and about 1 1/4 inch's long and 1/4 wide. they go bad a lot.

Rivnut/Blind rivet whatever you want to call it. I put 6 of those in they are to hold this on: hood is open cause I had the wires straight to the battery because I didn't have a hole saw for the grommet to get the wiring through the roof. night shot from the front, yea ball of light they light up a lot more then the pic shows they did not quite fit on the subi and I also picked this up form a guy on my local off road forum it will be a camping trailer for when I go up to truck shows with a friend who owns an off road shop. now all I need to get it running right again (hesitates under while going uphill) and then get it inspected.

OK things not updated that I still need to do: tranny/transfer case swap, still need to bob the bed and paint it. here is what has changed though: auxiliary fuse panels: inside the cab switched with accessory power under hood constant power pillaged half of a 97+ relay center (ghetto but it works) bussman PRM. power split and fused with a relay on one side neat little thing auto dimming rear view with compass and LED map lights (score from the junkyard) wired into switched fuse panel Fan switch wired through a relay with power from the constant fuse panel light switches pilot hole will continue in the next post because the thing keeps freaking out and scrolling up so i cannot see what I'm typing :fs1:

it looks like a rugged ridge setup (http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/mer ... ry_Code=S6)

http://www.shrinkpictures.com/ http://www.resize.it/advanced-online-photo-tools.html http://www.reducephoto.com/step1avatar.asp there are a lot, just search google for "photo resizer avatar" or something like that

20 amp would protect the 14 gauge wire fine

fuse

the push button starter in my truck was run from an empty switched lead on the fuse panel, through a momentary button and then to the starter. I have hooked up the original wire so that I can start it with the key again because that is the wrong way to hook it up. If I decide to put a push start in again I will simply use a relay under the dash triggered by the button and I will tap into the existing ignition harness. all you will need is the constant 12 volt wire (or Ignition if you want it keyed) and the starter wire. this way the wiring is all within a few inches of everything you need and there is no need to run wires into the engine bay. All the switch would do is mimic the turning of the key (except for drooping voltage to the accessory wire.)

I had used the Sherman ones, they are Comanche/Cherokee they fit OK with a lot of persuasion and if you don't really care about it looking factory. if the other one are really specific to the Comanche then I would go for those.

Crap, metras site is usualy pretty good about their harnesses

if I remember correctly the diamond cut headlights are crap. they have a crappy beam pattern and are not worth anything. I believe that the auto pals and IPF (I think its IPF) are the good housings.

google search for redneck jeep club bring up another video and in the comment it says that it was a song by his buddy Mike Gough http://www.rockcrawlertv.com/user_video ... hp?mId=863

DON'T CUT THE STOCK HARNESS PLEASE! I installed stereos for a few years and it is a pain in the butt when the harness is cut. it looks like the same harness was used throughout the life of our trucks Metra part number 70-1002. use that and wire it up to the harness that came with the radio. also try to install it correctly and not just cut the radio bezel. if you have the factory radio it should have a bracket around it that you can reuse to get it to sit right in the radio opening. looks a lot better in my opinion.

I have 6.5 lift up front and SOA in the rear so it should be ok

You mean 2.5? No, the AX-4/5 and AX-15 do not use the same shifter. yea I meant 2.5

ok so the list so far is: crossmember and trans mount external master/slave shifter (would one out of a 95ish 2.4 possible fit?) Pilot Bushing

going back to get stuff is out of the question, I bought this years ago when the pukegoat was stuck in gear, the mechanic got it out of gear so I put off swapping this one in. OK so far I would need a cross member or to make my own. anything else that is missing off the one in the pics that I would not already have in my truck now?

my main question is what else will I need aside from what I have in these pics? I need to swap my transfer case because my stock one is popping when in 4x4 (slipping chain I think). here is what I have they came out of the same Cherokee: OK, I'm pretty sure I have to get an external slave because the ba10 is an internal slave, but I have no idea what else I would need. sorry if this is common sense or has been posted a million times but all the threads I have run into are asking specific things about the swap. Thanks for any help, Jonathan