lostissues

oh pennies have their purposes... http://www.comedycentral.com/videos/ind ... ss-pennies :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

aren't there 2 different size float arms on Comanche senders? if that is the case you may have grabbed a long armed one and it is hitting the edge of the reservoir in the tank designed to use the short arm one. Just a thought.

if it is like mine (just did one 2 days ago) it should be easy take off wheel take out 2 caliper slide bolts and hang caliper out of the way remove brake pads and rotor take off 3 12 point (13mm as per kor10000) I just hammered it back and forth till I got it out and pulled the whole Axel shaft out (good thing to cause my U joint was toast!) pull cotter pin and locking cap off Axel nut and then remove Axel nut and then reverse the procedure using the 3 12 point bolts to pull the bearing assembly in snug.

free is always good. and the leaving the doors unlocked is what most wrangler owners have adopted, unfortunately people are to stupid to check the doors and usually take the cutting to enter route :roll: .

wow, that alarm is extremely simple, and I am not a fan. looks very easy to defeat especially if its on a wrangler with easy access to the engine compartment. There is no hood open sensor and a simple check for voltage change I think would false a lot. Glass breaking is generally a low impact act. most car alarms will not detect a shattered window if someone uses something like a spark plug or a center punch to take out a window and then reach in and grab stuff. it also looks like if you remove the alligator clip it is totally disabled. I would go for a nice DEI: http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_pro ... thon_460HP it has a starter kill, impact sensor, door trigger, locks, light flash and you can add sensors like a proximity sensor. that way if they cut power to the vehicle they still have to disable the alarm under the dash in order to be able to drive away with it.

yea, it kept a nice idle, didn't stall out and didn't hesitate. now all I have to do is replace the clamp that I robbed from the fuel filter (it pushed off the line when I took it for a test drive). and then I have to get it inspected before the end of March... yea so I have to figure out a way to get it to my friends shop without getting arrested for no inspection. if only I had know this last year it would have saved me A LOT of frustration and I could be driving it around now.

just take a trip to your local library with a nice sharp exact-o knife and go through all their Nat Geo mags. :yes:

so dumb. :doh: a friend of mine that works at a shop put the first fuel pump on. and I put on the second the same way he did the first. the issue was that we (he at first and the myself copying his install) did not put hose clamps on the rubber line elbow that connects the pump to the sender inside the tank. the result was that fuel squirted out the side of the hose thus reducing the fuel pressure. I put the clamps on and it runs fine now. I am extremely happy that my truck is running right and I feel extremely stupid that the problem was caused by such a stupid issue. thank you for all the help with everthing. Jonathan

I have tested at the schrader valve and got 23psi, I also put the T fitting on the tester and placed it between the pump output no the sender and the soft line that is usually connected to the sender unit and still got 23 psi. was with the old fuel pump, replaced the pump and it had the same symptoms pointing to not enough fuel pressure. I have not tested it again but I am 90% sure it will test the same. (I know that 10% is still there and I do plan on checking it again.) with that test it would tell me that my issue is still in the pump/sender area. 2 new pumps from different manufactures (looked like a Bosch for new #1 and new #2 is a Carter not sure on model number I will try to get that.). both pumps came with new soft elbows for connecting the pump to the sender inside the tank. the lines on the sender are clear. the sock looked ok when I took it out and on the second pump it began acting like crap almost immediately so I doubt it is getting clogged that fast. I am 90% sure that my issue is in the tank/sender/pump somehow. I am not getting the correct pressure from the pump which tells me that everything after that (lines soft and hard, filter, rail, regulator, return line) is ok or at least not causing the low pressure issue. is there anything with the physical tank that would cause this issue? like a bad vent thing or something crazy that I cannot think of? I am at my wits end and I am running out of niceness with this truck.

ok new question. what would cause low fuel pressure? I am pretty sure this is an issue between the tank and the filter. I had tested my fuel pressure between the pump and the filter and got 23psi. I have a new NEW pump (2nd new pump) and it did not solve this issue. I have verified that the fuel pressure tester is working correctly. what would cause an issues with the pump not putting out enough pressure. if the lines were clogged it would have a high pressure reading. pinching my return line did nothing to the pressure. it seams like the system is not getting enough fuel to the rail. it will idle around 500 rpms and run rough and then die. I have tried running a wire from the fuse box to the + pump wire, I also ran another ground to the - pump wire. replaced/new: pump including sock (x2) filter (x2) fuel pressure regulator (swapped from junk yard for testing purposes) EDIT:: No ballast resistor what would cause the pump to not be able to get enough fuel up to the rail?

speakers are not 6x4... they are actually 4x6 :clapping: but I'm pretty sure 6x4s will fit.

You’re quite talented with graphics, but wouldn't that one suggest that MJ's are "clunkers" and diminish the perception of the brand? they are "clunkers", every truck on this board is considered a "clunker" under the stupid program they set up. basically we are just taking the word and making it our own.

crap that is a nice looking one. to bad I already have a lot of money in mine. I hate to pass it up though, a few years back I looked at a nice 92 short bed 4.0 manual, it drove nice but had the floor and rocker rot, I didn't want to get another fix-er-upper at the time because I had just started fixing my 87. Every time I think about it I kick myself for not grabbing it. :fs1:

I did pull the whole unit out today, I also had it out a few days ago and everything looked ok. all connections were fine and the sock was ok. gave the "new" pump to by brother in law so he can take it to work and they can get the warranty from wherever they got it from.

be careful with that, a lot of multimeter's will have an internal fuse and could blow that if you hook it up in line. if you want to look up how to test it do a search for "parasitic drain test"

that time my computer issue was the forum not liking a character from the cut and paste. usually I use IeSpell check and for some reason when its done and I'm editing and of course the second I am hitting the backspace button which is also a hot key for going back in the web browser it de-selects the typing field and goes to just the browser so instead of backspacing a few letters that I had typed it goes back a page a I loose everything. I know I should use firefox or something that doesn't suck but I am just so used to IE. as for the fuel pump I'm pretty sure it was an Airtex I got. I believe I can get it warranted and hopefully a new one will work correctly. at this point I'm 99% sure it is a bad fuel pump. I did test the pressure between the pump and the filter and the reading was 23psi. I wanted to eliminate a clogged filter as the culprit. Jeep forum was a bit of help. but it did not help that I put in a new fuel pump. I was figuring that because the pump was new it should be working correctly. and after a bunch of testing and getting really frustrated I am now at this point remembering to never assume things are working just because they are new. and CC is definitely the best, I cannot get over the amount of flaming, putting down and just downright disrespect I see on other forums. I am glad we have such a great community.

I swear I have to worst luck with typing long @$$ well thought out post. I get them all typed out and something @#$%s up and I loose everything I just wrote. :mad: :mad: :mad: ::copy and past from the FSM had a character the forum did not like so that is why I lost it all :headpop: :: now for the abridged version: new post because I just wanted to know the fuel pressure of an 87-90 4.0. I also posted on jeepforum and after just now re-reading realized I misunderstood about acceptable PSI readings. copy and past from FSM: "Based upon a manifold vacuum signal, pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure in fuel system of approximately 31-39 psi (2.1-2.7 kg/cm) by allowing excess fuel to return to fuel tank." I was having the same problem before winter we replaced the pump and I drove it home, then it ran like crap again. figured it was another issue because its a new pump. just the other day I got around to pulling the sender and the sock was not attached to the pump. we also fixed the sender before winter because the tubes were no longer attached to the plate and that allowed the assembly inside the tank to move and hit the bottom probably knocking the sock off. we had JB welded them but that did not hold so I brazed them together this time and put a zip tie on the sock to hold it. put the whole sender back in and then I tested again to get the current 23 psi. so now that I know that I need more pressure I will pull the sender again and either have this pump warrantied or get a new one.

anyone want to photochop one of these on the back of a comanche?

I just did the same with the tank still up, it was a little cramped but if your truck is lifted (mine is 6 in the front, soa in the rear) you can sit between the drive shaft and exhaust and get a pretty good angle on it. getting the lock ring started was the biggest pain though.

ok, my truck has been running (barely) like crap. it is un-driveable and because of it I was not able to get it inspected in march. I have been trying to get this fixed without much luck. well testing the fuel pressure I'm getting about 23 psi, I have been told that this is ok. I also have been told I should have about 40 psi and the 88 FSM I have says it should be about 31-39 psi. I have tested the pressure at the rail and I also tested it between the fuel pump and the fuel filter. same reading so it is not a clogged filter to kinked line. I am just looking to see if anyone with a 4.0 (87-90) can verify what their trucks are running at for fuel pressure. I am hoping it is just a bad new pump, here is my other post just for reference viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19209 any help would be awesome, I just want to drive my truck. I have only been able to drive it a hand full of times since it has been legal to go down the road. Jonathan

http://www.chinabaw.cn/qishi/photos.aspx also look at the top drop down menu, off-road vehicle and then jeeps, some of those look pretty sweet. **EDIT** or is it the one in the middle of the first slide on their home page? http://www.chinabaw.cn/index.aspx

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17126&hilit=injectors+discount All the same person

this guy sells them, he is active on jeepfurum http://jeepspace.jeepforum.com/painjectors also says use the coupon "jeep" for 10% off

look on here there is the full cluster and a dummy cluster, I tried to post the pic but it was to big http://www.baeta.org/opie/Gauge.htm

ok well i was able to go the another junk yard and find some parts, I grabbed a fuel pressure regulator and a ERG solenoid. tried swapping them in and it did nothing. so today I pulled out my sending unit and the JB weld we put on the tubes did not hold very well, when I pulled it out I'm guessing the sock was not attached, it is simple to snap on and would seam like it could fall off easily. with the tubes being free to move the pump probably is able to slam into the bottom of the tank and knock the sock off. could the pump not being positioned correctly be the problem or the sock not being attached make it run like crap? well either I need to figure out a new way to sent fuel or get a new (new/used most likely because no one make them anymore) one or have this one repaired. luckily I have the 32 gal tank with a special sending unit so it should make it super easy to find one right :roll: