lostissues

they bolt together different. I have the 97+ header and 97- fenders. the 97+ fenders have a stud at the bottom that goes through the header panel and bolts the bottom of the header panel to the fenders. I zip tied my header panel to something to keep the bottom in place while I take my sweet time putting on the 97+ fenders I have. and the very slight difference on the corners.

dammit, guess mine didn't make that much of an impression. :( I used rivet nuts to install it. that is the way they get installed at the dealer here is instructions on how to install it on a libby http://www.jeepprojects.com/content.php?article.30

pretty sure they are flasher relays.

You got me excited that was going to be a link to an app that turns your phone into a keyfob. I guess a rewards card app is cool too. Rob L. :D they do have them but they require a unit for the starter and a subscription, DEI has one http://www.viper.com/smartstart/ and Compustar also has one http://www.dronemobile.com/ which I want to add onto my starter but I cannot see paying for the unit and then an additional 120 bucks a year for the service. And there are probably a few others out there also.

good idea with the shop, if something goes wrong they will cover it, and if you ever have questions or problems you can bring it back to them. if your wife has a smart phone (I have a Droid) you should look into the key ring app http://droidapplications.org/keyring the locks should be like 20 bucks extra if they are still pricing things like the did a little while ago even thought they are simple as hell to do in that car. and make sure they hook up the hood pin so it doesn't start when you have your hand in the engine bay and lean on the keys. Good luck, Jonathan

how did you install the radio? if done correctly you shouldn't need the radios trim ring. let me see if I can find the thread on it. Here you go viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11247 if you still have the factory radio take the mount for it and re drill the holes to attach it to your new radio. unfortunately I cannot find a pic of the factory bracket and the one in the thread that is linked in the thread I posted is now gone.

if the Camry is an automatic transmission, I'm pretty positive if you had somewhere do it it would only be the basic install price (IE no extra bypass, key bypass, extra wiring unless you want it). Camrys are very simple cars to do a remote start in all the wires are very easy to get to. for that I would go with a DEI product http://www.directed.com/ this is their basic one in the python brand http://www.pythoncarsecurity.com/produc ... ductID=624 this is a nice one with a little longer range I think and a few extra features http://www.pythoncarsecurity.com/produc ... ductID=617 here is a basic unit with basic install at best buy ( :wall: //former Circuit City employee :( ) http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Avital+-+4111+Remote+Start+System+(Basic+Install+Included)+-+Black/9495076.p?id=1218114247707&skuId=9495076 little nice unit with basic install, I would get this one because it has a bit more range to it http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Viper+-+5101+SuperCode+1-Way+Remote+Start+System+(Basic+Install+Included)/9347824.p?id=1218089217810&skuId=9347824 if you want locks it will probably be a little extra. if you decide to do it your self http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/for ... asp~TID~54 be sure to test all your wires with a multi meter and hook up all safety systems (hood pin and kill switch)

I just had to take off the inside door panel. then with the window up I was able to reach in using a tool to remove the clip that holds the cylinder in place. then I pulled the lock cylinder out a little and unhooked the rod that is connected to it.

bed looks OK from a distance http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/pts/2002500120.html

I hate rodents, I kill every mouse, squirrel, chipmunk, mole, whatever I see. the mice chew on wires and nest in places where they are not welcome. the chipmunks store their acorns in places that piss me off like the air box of my old car, moles dig up the yard, and squirrels also chew wires and eat all the birds food. so they get to meet the air gun I got specifically for them. yea, the truck has always smelled a little funky because it sat in my yard for a couple years while very very slowly being fixed. I picked up a new one at a local Robbins auto parts for a whole $9.50.

OK so I pulled the resistor pack out and this is what I found: I didn't see anything wrong so I put it back and made a sandwich. OK, no I didn't put it back. I cleaned it out and then started to tackle this mess this is what I found with a little grabber tool including one of the little bastards that was responsible for the mess, glad it wasn't very hospitable for them. after that I got a shop vacuum and ran out and air compressor line to blow and suck all the crap out. then I just jammed the vacuum in the hole and turned on the fan and beat on the bottom of the box to get any remaining stuff out. Thanks for the help, this winter I will leave some traps around the truck to make sure they don't get a chance to do this again.

is this something that I can do easily without removing the entire dash? EDIT: if the resistor pack is the part under the glove box where the 4 wires attach and has 2 bolts holding the panel on then it should be easy to get to. now I just have to wait for the water to stop falling form the sky.

OK I have an issues with mice in my heater box, I'm pretty sure that they deposited some nest material around the resistor pack and when turned on it burns the material. I am hoping to be able to cut a hole on the underside of the box and reach in to clean up the mess. this would be a lot easier then removing the whole dash and then the heater box and cleaning it. I am looking to see how the heater box is laid out, if there are separate chambers, where I will have to reach to to clean stuff out or if I should just bite the bullet and pull the whole dash off.

does cutting into the bottom sound like a good idea? can I access the whole thing or would I only be able to reach a small portion of the heater box? does anyone have or know where I can get a pic of the heater box and even better a cut/exploded diagram?

when are you putting rear steer on it like the real one?

well it isn't a show truck so I was thinking that I could just cut a nice circle hole in the bottom of the heater box and reach up inside (with gloves) and clean it out. does anyone have a pic of a heater box and how it laid out on the inside so I know where to grab stuff? then I would find some plastic to bolt back in and seal it with rtv or something. thats just my idea, don't know if it will work. oh and the smoke was pretty much only in the cab, I saw a little when I popped the hood but I'm pretty sure it was coming from a grommet that came off a little on the passenger side of the firewall. I did look around the exhaust manifold and didn't see anything.

well it definitely smelled like a leaf burning. and I have issues with rodents playing in my truck and before when i had turned on the fan and slapped the heater box under the pass side dash little tidbits of my seat stuffing and other paper/material like pieces would come out of the vents. my plan will be to pull the dash and heater assembly and clean it out. I could get all the crap out and possible get rid of some of the rodent piss smell. hopefully I can get it all done before it gets really cold, having no garage to work in sucks.

well today I decided that I wanted to take my truck to work. it was a little chilly so I decided I should throw on the heat so I threw the heat to full hot left the fan on off (cause I'm dumb like that) and threw it on the defrost setting. so about 5 miles in I start to smell smoke, now I'm always paranoid about a fire in my truck, I repaired a burnt ground from the headlight switch that took out a couple wires along with it and it just has me worried about the other wires. but this smelled like burning wood or leaves, not electrical. so I put my window down and the smell seamed to get stronger so I though it was just a bonfire or something. well after about a 1/4 of a mile smelling it I started to see smoke coming from the dash. so I pulled off the road and killed the engine and started to look under the dash and under the hood to see if I could see anything. I didn't see anything so eventually I turned off the heat and drove it home and grabbed my car (didn't smoke on the way home). now is there anything that is notorious for burning? I know the ignition will sometimes do it but this did not smell like wires melting. it was more like dried leaves. I do/did have a rodent problem (stinky vents like mouse urine and trapped a few :mad: ) so it may be a nest or something but what would produce that much heat in the under dash area? doesn't the heater just open a door and let in excess engine heat in? It may be in the engine bay but the majority of the smoke looked to be coming from the dash. go figure this happens a couple days before I was going to bring it up to Vermonster4x4 and now I have to take my car again. but I guess its better then it happening on the way up or up there. thanks for any info.

Solid and Rockcrusher are NOT the same company. Grant @ Rockcrusher recently won a federal lawsuit against Solid Axle Industries over the entire mess. Solid is not legally allowed to sell any diff-covers anymore. They marked them down to $65 to just piss Rockcrusher off. Try to add one to your shopping cart on their website; it won't work... Solid also changed their name to Spyntec Industries to try to avoid the entire mess as well... Rockcrusher is still producing and selling covers. You won't find anyone who's selling the Solid covers anymore, or anyone who has them in stock either... wierd, I was just able to add them to my cart. also they look like they sell them here http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Sol ... -1243.html also they look to be in stock on motionoffroad :dunno: I would say give solid a call and see if they still have them.

http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc ... Category=7 I have these covers, they look plenty beefy.

the Rad probably wasn't attached at all. it only runs for a few seconds.

I bought mine off of someone who bought it off of someone so I need to do a VIN verification along with a bill of sale (which I did not get when I bought it luckily it was someone on my local forum so I was able to get one) in order to register it.

I know there is one on the dash, and door jam, searching the forum said there is one on the frame behind the front bumper, and I think the plate in the engine bay. my question is are there any Vin locations from the bed back? I have a trailer made from the bed of a Comanche and I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking a Vin number before I fill out a "verification of vehicle identification" form before marking "missing" so I don't get in any trouble. Thanks, Jonathan

may not help you out but when mine went bad I went to the local pick n pull and snagged as many as I could find.

how about perusing the local junk yard for any tilty sunroof that will fit. I grabbed a good sized sunroof (frame and glass all in one) out of I think a KIA and there was another out of a Corolla I think. and also one out of a GM car. the KIA was pretty big and I plan on putting it in the roof of the topper on my MJ bed trailer.