lostissues

IMO this is a silly way to use a winch, picture your truck where it needs to be winched out of, IE mud, off rocks, blah blah, now you have to get out and dig out your winch setup, lug it to the back/front, over the rocks through the mud and hook it up. hopefully your receiver is not below the water or mud line. it just seams like an impractical way to go about things, but I guess if you need a tug back wards and only have a front mounted winch your screwed.

uuuh, is this a CFC truck? if so you should not be able to let alone want to buy the engine off the thing. they have to kill the engine before it goes to the junk yard. and as far as I know when a vehicle goes through the CFC the VIN is erased from the system and is no longer usable for anything, it is useless. also if it is CFC the junk yard cannot sell the entire truck, they HAVE to crush it. they can sell as many of the usable parts they can except for the engine and also the tranny as a whole unite (but I believe you can part out the trannys) this is from what I have gathered talking to people and reading on the interwebs so some or all of it may not be true.

OMG did you do what i think you did! had a coe-worker inside the bed trunk and told another to "check out this awesome truck inside the bed, its huge!" scared the crap out of him, It was hilarious :clapping: .

only good thing I can say about the Ridgeline is that the integrated bed trunk is an awesome way to scare the crap out of unsuspecting coe-workers.

well for now we plastered the sending unit with JB weld, hopefully it will hold up. I emailed 2 companies one being the above company for a quote. I believe I cannot get an accurate quote from either because on a repair basis they have no idea how bad the unit is. so it is good to know that you got your fixed for about 130. how bad was yours when you sent it out? so for now I'm out of the market for a fuel sending unit. Thanks for all the info guys :wavey: Jonathan

I think that looks like mine but if in not mistaken then the float is different on mine. not sure if it narrows it down but it is a long wheel base and it has 3 straps holding it up. my main issues are the fuel pump is dead, and where the lines enter the tank on the sending unit is cracked. the line can free spin in the sending unit. I have seen on here that some have repaired them with JB weld, I have also heard of soldering them back together. I guess I may have to try that. maybe I will check to see if the local junk yard kept the fuel sending unit out of the one they have. hopefully it is a long bed. I may contact one of the fuel sending repair sites to get a quote also.

not sure if the 2.5 is the same. thanks though are the ebay fuel sending units the correct ones ie. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E7091S-F ... ccessories? they say they are for a Comanche, Cherokee, others also include wagoner and grand Cherokee. I'm thinking they are not interchangeable throughout those vehicles but who knows.

it most likely would hit the top of the dash if it were installed in the radio spot. if you were to move the heater controls and mount it there it would work fine. some will have an option to stay out a little when it opens and folds up. most will open fold up and then retract back about an inch or so. some you can just set to open and fold up. If you hook the screen up correctly it will not play moving video while the truck is in motion. if you hook it up to have video when moving you could run into trouble with the police. you are not supposed to have a moving video display anywhere in front of the driver.

1987 4.0 LWB my sending unit is bad and I'm having trouble finding a replacement online, any suggestions on where to find one? Thanks, Jonathan

This was it, but the listing expired on CL http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/97- ... et-892726/

Crap, I work in a liquor warehouse, and I don't trust the guys operating the fork lifts. I will have to be more attentive from now on and hope that they have sobered of from the last night. I just started there but the other guys were telling me about what they called "The great Baileys disaster" where an entire wall of Baileys (probably 20+ pallets) tipped over on the weekend, 2 inches thick of Baileys on the floor.

when I see a lot of these I can only think of Ferris Buellers day off. Also this garage has my Dream ride in it: The only thing I would change is I would go with the blue tassels, the pink ones are just a little too girly for me.

google search of "Worlds Most Beautiful Garages" brings up this link. hope this is what the op was trying to post. http://www.luxury4play.com/automotive/3 ... -pics.html

I recycled this costume from 4 years ago, it won the scariest costume award at my friends party.

whenever I install speakers without adapter harness I just use the leads that come with the aftermarket speakers and cut the insulation of of the wire behind the factory connector and solder and tape the leads on there. that way if you go back to the factory speakers they are right there and you can just plug it in. they do make adapters for this application also Metra product part number 72-1002 as for the positive and negative, the best answer I could give would be to plug it into the factory wiring and get the color codes. or you could pop the speaker with a 9 volt battery (speaker disconnected) if the cone moves out when you touch the leads to the battery then the positive and negative are correct. if the cone sucks itself in then the positive and negative are backward.

why are you reusing the connector that was attached to the speaker? most aftermarket speakers come with pig tails to connect to the speakers.

assuming I tested the TPS correctly (Haynes manual was little help) the TPS reads about .621 volts when throttle is closed and 4.48 volts when wide open.

Just check the fuel pressure, assuming I did it correctly: when the fuel pump primes it goes to 40 and when idling it is at 30. pretty sure it is low, what is the 4.0 supposed to run at? I'm pretty sure it is a fuel pump because it is LOUD. Cat is brand new just installed a few weeks ago, I will go and test the TPS now and report back.

I picked up new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. unfortunately it is raining so I cannot do anything. tomorrow I should be able to get a hold of a fuel pressure tester. I hope it isn't my fuel pump because I want to go wheeling this weekend and getting a pump to my door and installed is not something I can probably get done in one day. I may still go and just limp the whole run. it seams to still run OK at low speeds :shake:

anyone tried these ebay tanks? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-87-88 ... ccessories 50 bucks with 50 dollar shipping so 100 bucks for the tank.

that might be the problem I'm having with the tank leaking, it is about 3/4 when it starts to leak and the only wet spot is around the fuel pump.

well I figured I should replace the fuel filter anyway because I don't know how old it is. so I replaced it and it still runs like poop. still waiting for Thursday to test the fuel pressure.

I still have to check the pressure in my fuel system but if it turns out to be the pump i want to get the best price so I figured i would see if anyone knows the best price. I'm also pricing out gas tanks at the same time. when I fill up my tank it leaks, though it looks like it is only around the fuel pump so it may be a bad install or something. I already replaced my fuel pump and it did not seam to do anything to fix my bogging, stuttering, backfiring problem. EDIT: I'm an idiot, I have a 1987 LWB. Thanks, Jonathan

trying to get a hold of a fuel pressure tester. autozone didn't have one to rent out and I didn't feel like paying 50 bucks for one. my buddy has one but I cannot get it till Thursday.

when I depress the accelerator to a certain point my truck will buck, stutter, backfire and bog down. I have to baby the accelerator and it is still pretty iffy. If I am still and rev the engine by pressing the accelerator to the floor and then letting up it will bog once it hits about 3 grand. happened after wheeling today, I checked air filter and distributor cap both are dry. any suggestion? Thanks, Jonathan EDIT: 1987 Comanche 4.0