lostissues

as for the tail light issue, check the ground and also check the last connector under the bed on the drivers side and make sure it is getting good contact through it. to take out the light switch you have to pull it out as far as it can go (headlights on) then look underneath there should be a hole when you look up from under the dash. use something to put inside that hole there is a button, after you depress that button you should be able to pull the knob straight out. then you need a large flathead screw driver and you remove the nut like thing behind the knob. then the switch assembly should be able to be removed through the back of the dash. the ground for the headlight switch goes up into the same harness as all the other wires off the switch and if I remember correctly it goes back to around the fuse box and maybe grounds to the chassis there but I cannot recall for sure. I am still trying to diagnose my rear parking lights not working, pretty sure it is the connector under the bed but my truck is not with me so I cannot be sure. Hope this information can help someone out. Jonathan

harbor freight why didn't I think of that. looks like I just might be trying out this one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=94100 looks a little beefier and has a little more information. and only 10 bucks for 100 rivnut inserts. Thanks man :cheers:

I'm mostly looking at this one http://www.mackspw.com/Item--i-AVE00010 and wondering if anyone has used this particular one or anything like it? what I'm looking to so is have a way to attach a door panel that I plan on making out of either abs plastic or metal. I want to use something like this rivnut so that I can take it off relatively easy. I figure about 3 on each side would hold it on pretty good and use an Allen head bolt or a button head bolt to hold them on. I think If I use self tappers the holes will eventually strip out, rivets are permanent more or less, plastic tree clips I don't like, and I'm not a fan of speed clips. if anyone has other suggestions that would be great, I'm looking for a nice flush look and an easy bolt on application. basically something with a threaded inside that can be attached to sheet metal. Thanks, Jonathan

Just by guessing I would say, black buckets from a two door Cherokee pre 95 maybe? not sure when they changed the floors around and that messed with the seat I believe. then after that any seat from a 2 door with the correct substructure because they fold forward and allow access to behind the seat.

just had to get one for my brother in laws xj, went to the junkyard and pulled one there. we also may have to get another for his comanche because his wipers decided to stop working.

I had a similar experience when pulling a gauge cluster at the junk yard to check it out. I couldn't get it out far enough to see behind it so I just ended up cutting the cable. while this does not help the OP I was thinking is there any way to gather together the different spedo inputs and cables just as a reference and maybe a quick description on how to remove it? if we could get people to take pics of their extra clusters or when the do a swap snap a pic. sorry to hijack. but it does sound familiar to squeeze the plastic pieces to get it to release.

my opinion Jensen: crap Sony: makes OK sound pioneer: depending on the series is better then the Sony's eclipse: pretty good sound, more focused on the highs and mids Kicker: also very good, little better then the eclipse, also focuses on highs and mids Polk: very nice all around speaker, nice highs, mids and lows **Favorites** Alpine: right around the same as Polk's (at least the type R's and up) **also Favorite** these are mostly speakers you can get in big box stores (best buy, Circuit city before they were run into the ground). I have also heard good things about JL, Infinity. and don't buy anything from Dual, Boss, or anything from walmart. they have a pretty good 5.25 selection here: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio ... wAll=True& and the 4x6 are here: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio ... wAll=True& that is where I plan to buy my new components from for my car, I just have to figure out what ones to get.

Well I picked these up off craigslist the other day, I didn't want to post them because they were a present for my brother-in-law (Jackel18) sorry for the crappy pics the first one was ripped in half :( The guy had 2 of these so I get one for myself also I also got 2 jeep jamboree posters and 2 of a red wrangler in a forest with tall trees asking to tread lightly pretty cool, I guess the guy worked for AMC back in the day and got these posters at the dealership he worked at

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16305&p=164517&hilit=bed+removal#p164517 this the thread/pic your talking about? there is also another pic at the bottom of that page

well just today I picked up some new Jeep/Comanche paraphernalia but I can not yet post up pics of them. but here are some pics of the other stuff that I have been collecting: These were taken with my cell phone so the look kinda crappy. These are some Jeep mugs I won at a rock crawl last year and an old MB toy in the background: and these are the toys that I have collected over time:

didn't even see your post, sorry for ignoring you. well a lot has changed since the last time I updated, once everything Is all finished I will post up pics and tell everything that has been done. for now here are a couple quick crappy pics of my almost completed half doors (the grey spots are because I had to play with the lighting in photoshop because the pics were to dark to see anything) Hopefully I will be able to put up a big update this month sometime.

well after looking at the electric manual that BALTZ had posted in the DIY section (thanks Red 1989 MJ) it looks like the only connections between the fuse being OK and the connector that I jumped power to is the headlight switch. is the headlight switch something that could cause this problem? can a problem with the switch cause only the rear parkings lamps not to work but still have all the others function fine? Thanks, Jonathan

OK for some reason my rear parking lights stopped working. I did a search and I didn't see any info that would help. the sockets, bulbs and ground are fine, I traced the wire all the way up to the cab to a connector before the fuse box, unplugged it and jumped a hot wire over and the rear lights turned on, so I know that everything if OK wiring wise from that point back. None of the fuses are bad, I believe that my hazards are not working also (don't know if its a common problem or a coincidence). brake lights, turn signals,all front lights, gauge lights, courtesy lights all still work. Anyone have any idea? If I could get a diagram with all the colors and connections and components that would be awesome and give me a better idea on how to track down my issue. One thing I found that I'm not sure of is when looking up into the dash from the floorboards I saw the back of the headlight switch, there was a single wire connected to the back but it was a bare wire, broken and extremely oxidized. what is this wire? is it a ground for the switch? My truck is a 1987 LWB. Thanks for any help.

I got the floor pans from Sherman, not a perfect fit but you can pound them into submission.

wait what? I thought putting ON chrome made the car faster? I'm so confused! //goes outside and removes chrome spinner caps, and returns them to walmart//

does it still have the wiring? a lot of the new cars that come with the radio delete option still have all the wiring and speakers but just don't come with a head unit. if that is the case then you should be able to put any aftermarket radio with a wiring adapter and be on your way. if you need to add speakers then you will have to do that. if for some reason when they made your truck they decided to take the time to remove all the wiring from the harness, which i don't see as being very likely, then you will have to run all new wires which is not hard.

you said the speakers themselves still play lows but the highs cut out? if they cut out completely then I would say you are definitely on the right track with checking the door boot.

it sounds like an problem with the radio, if you have any way to swap a radio even for just a few seconds just to check if it remedies the situation that would be the easiest route.

I have an 03 Subaru Impreza 2.5rs and I love it. I'm not a fan of VW or Audi or any German cars because I used to do car electronics and they are horrible cars to deal with wiring wise. also another thing to think about is the price of parts and labor, the Subaru shouldn't be to bad with costs but anything German will cost you an arm and a leg for parts and then the other arm and leg and half your torso to have those parts put in.

I checked their website and they says that they give the price per springs, the metric ton spring is 380 so total for one truck is 760 just for the springs. but if you would like to prove me wrong about the price I would be very happy for now I'm going to do the old springs with an added leaf off the other springs so maybe it will be OK, but I'm just looking for options just in case it is crap when we get it all together. Thanks, Jonathan

Looking for sources for replacement leaf springs, I just had a SOA lift done in my 87 long bed and the leaf springs are a little saggy. the plan for now is to slip another leaf from a different pack in as a homemade add a leaf. this should hopefully work but for the just in case situation that this falls through I would like to find some places that offer replacement leaf packs. I know that Hellcreek do offer a metric ton spring pack but the price is kinda steep for what I'm willing to put into my truck. doing a quick search with google I found these places: http://www.generalspringkc.com/index.ph ... t=143&pg=1 Still a little pricey (I'm no expert on the real value of these I just cannot see putting 400+ into my truck for rear springs) http://www.everdrive.com/partdetails.as ... n=shopping this place looks like used oem or pretty much an on line junk yard. http://www.thesuspensionking.com/catalo ... manche.php and here is another that I found and this one has a sweet looking mascot! anyway I was just wondering if these are pretty universal prices for springs. I know that a lot of people make lift springs but if I were to put those in it would bring my truck way up and it would probably not be very legal. Thanks for any help, Jonathan

Well unfortunately after some consideration I decided to pass on acquiring the 97 xj, I guess it would be way to ambitious of a project for me to undertake to swap everything in. it has taken me a VERY long time to get my truck to where it is now and that is that the truck is almost road worthy, just a couple more things and hopefully it will be on the road in less then a month. for the past few years I have taken my sweet time getting things done that most on here could have done in a fraction of the time. so a full swap would be way over my head and put my truck completion date way into the future. so the plan is to get the truck going, wheel it and then if something happens down the way work through a possible swap. But this thread has generated some great discussions and hopefully it could help someone looking into doing the swap somewhere down the road. If you would like to continue contributing to this post with everything you can thing of I'm sure it will help someone. Thanks for the input guys :wavey:

OK I'm hopefully going to acquire a 97 Cherokee that has been rolled, I'm looking to swap everything I can into my Comanche. the fenders and header panel should be pretty straight forward. I would like to swap the motor and drive train in and also the whole dash. what kind of problems will I run into? the motor and trans should be a pull everything put everything in new place correct? With the dash I have found 2 people that have done it so far, project 1999MJ and Project "Onyx" unfortunately 1999MJ looks like he did the swap before he joined the forum but does have a little info later in the project. Onyx did give me the information of needing to make the whole for the steering column larger, and also something about side A pillar brackets but I don't understand that. is there another place that I missed to gather some information? I will have to transfer all the computers and fuse boxes and everything from the Cherokee over to the MJ in order for the engine and everything to work. and I'm assuming that i will have to wire in everything from the seats back (lights, fuel pump, cargo light, and anything else back there.) any info you can point me to would be great. Thanks, Jonathan

"grow up and do coke like an adult!"

yea, when your all done typing just right click and select "check spelling". it does not do it on the fly.