fiatslug87

You can use any type of two part push fastener that will fit the seat base hole. If you didn’t need NOS bumper brackets you don’t need these exact fasteners.

Yes, right = passenger side Yes, the FSM says to follow this procedure and re-bleed normally following the same sequence: left rear, right rear, right front, left front.

If I were you I would first try to get fluid to come out of all bleeders before following the procedure. Just gravity should fill the lines unless there’s a restriction/obstruction.

The smaller front reservoir is for the rear. It sounds like you just have to do it several more times, there’s a lot of air in your system, assuming the fluid isn’t leaking out somewhere else. Are you bleeding the rears with the front passenger caliper bleeder opened? Follow the procedure in the ‘92 FSM manual, it’s on here somewhere. You should bleed with the cover off. Edit: From the ‘92 factory service manual: Release emergency brake Open the right front bleeder Depress brake pedal and hold Start engine, brake light should stay on after engine starts indicating bypass valve has moved (sensed front brake leak) Turn off engine, leave bleeder open Bleed left rear Bleed right rear Bleed righ front (close bleeder when done) Bleed left front then repeat bleeding with right caliper closed

Do you still have the EGR valve? Have you tested it? https://comancheclub.com/topic/73480-21-–-renix-egr-valve-test/#comment-769327 Procedure from the FSM is in this post. https://comancheclub.com/topic/38225-egr-solenoid-renix/

Last week my wife made sous vide chuck roast, cooked at 135° for 29 hours!

The wife made some tamales a couple days ago.

That’s kind of strange that the wire would just get cut on its own.

I think what eaglescout526 is asking is do you have the servo and everything else under the hood for cruise control?

Make them and sell them here.

Fortuitous

SWEET!!!

@Montana Offroad those are beautiful! You’re right they should be used and will look great on your truck. But what do I know, I used a NOS chrome bumper on my trailer.

I cut apart the dual hitch and extended it by 8” from 7” to 15” using the leftover perforated square tubing from the bumper & hitch installs. I used the 1-1/4” tube inside the 1-1/2” tube, that sucker will never deflect! Also cut down the part that slides into the receiver and drilled for the hitch pin. I like it much better offset so the step doesn’t interfere when I’m opening the drawer.

That’s where my M8s came from, but I didn’t want any more than two, better to use the six leftover from the previous project. Also, I’m probably the only guy without Prime.

Yes Qube, when it’s scanned it takes you to a search for “…resistance is futile”

Had to dig up my shirt.

Well ahead of schedule

Maybe Hugh?

I got that little click gauge at NAPA, has worked well for me. From the FSM:

I have a set of NOS bumper brackets, PM if interested. Also ashtray light and possibly the seat trims, I’ll have to look.

I got tired of scraping my hands on the wing nuts that secure the hi-lift jack so I made a couple of knobs for it. I couldn’t find M12 knobs but luckily had some M8 ones from a previous project so I pressed out the nut, drilled it to the smaller diameter of the M12 nut, heated the nut and pressed it into place. Not very technical, but makes it much easier to install/remove.

In my opinion, not necessary if you’re not running a lot of accessaries, lights, stereo, winch, etc. I’ve been using cables from NAPA on my stock ones for years, work perfectly.