fiatslug87

On their way.

The tan one is my neighbor’s from across the street. She had soil delivered and dumped on her driveway so she parked in front of my house. Just had to move the trucks around and get a picture of the whole Comanche tribe. Can you guess what my other two license plates are?

Fuel pump relay is located on passenger's side inner fender in a bank of 3 or 4 relays usually under a plastic cover (unless removed). If you're standing along side the vehicle, it's the second from the right. 1st- Oxygen sensor heater relay 2nd- Fuel pump relay 3rd- Power latch relay 4th- A/C clutch relay Google Renix manual, this has good information assuming your truck is 1990 or earlier.

Jeep VIN decoder: http://jeep.avtograd.ru/VIN/vin_en.asp

Draw Tite makes a rear hitch which fits either long or short bed but says with factory installed step bumper only. The part number is 75021. Here's the link for it mounted on my short bed. http://home.comcast.net/~fiatslug87/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html Here it is for $158 (+shipping). http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=s-1547&bool=AND&category=c_search&maxhits=10&keywords=1990&keywords_2=JEEP+COMANCHE&GO=GO%21 EDIT: It's a 2" receiver by the way.

I only have the blue temp gauge not the red as in your picture. There are several listings for temp senders in the parts cataloge maybe you have the wrong one?

I might have an extra temp gauge you can have, I'll check tonight after work and let you know.

Pull the pump and hit it with 12 volts, if it pumps it's working. I had a similar problem, I couldn't hear the pump priming but it worked when tested as above. I then found a loose connection in the wiring harness by the e-brake. Check all the harness connections and the fuel pump relay. Not sure of tubing size, but your assumption seems logical. Good Luck.

NOT true. if you remove a battery terminal it kills the circuit and the engine will die. on a carbeurated motor you could probably get by with pulling the terminals but on a fuel injected system, all sensors will die and it will no longer run. You are incorrect, I've done this and the motor continues running (on RENIX at least), that's how I diagnosed my bad alternator, replaced it and all was fine. Thanks for the confirmation DirtyComanche.

Not exactly sure of answers to your questions, but once you get it started pull one of the terminals off the battery. If it dies your alternator isn't working properly.

So what happened? Was it your IAC? Thanks

Here it is http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Jeep_Renix_Fuel_Injection_manual.pdf

I'm sure, check out the Renix manual at http://www.pirate4x4.com or Google Renix manual, the '90 FSM also has the same procedure. Yes, I'm running at 17%. You divide the Output voltage (A to C) by the Input voltage (A to B), that ratio should be 0.17 (17%).

Well, the manual says to use Miller tool #7558 (formerly Ele. Ct.01) excerciser, whatever that is. I assume you have an automatic transmission since you set the TPS to 82%, otherwise it's 17% for manual transmission. The '89 FSM is in error and states 83% for both AT & MT but the '90 FSM and RENIX manual say 17% for MT. Hopefully someone else has more information.

Check the Idle Speed Stepper Motor next to the TPS. It may have gotten fried. I don't have the FSM with me (I'm at work) to post how to check it. If no one else responds I'll post later.

It's a 2" receiver.

I have a picture on one of my short beds: http://home.comcast.net/~fiatslug87/wsb ... html-.html It's a Draw Tite which fits either long or short bed but says with factory installed step bumper only. The part number is 75021 and it's only $158 http://search.cartserver.com/search/sea ... E&GO=GO%21

I just went through the same thing. I opted to replace the power steering pump instead of disassembling, cleaning, replacing O-rings and having it still leak. The pump is less than $80 at NAPA (ask for the AAA discount), I felt that was well worth it. I also decided to change the pressure hose, return hose and serpentine belt while I was at it. Now there’s no noise and I don’t have to strain turning the wheels.

You almost made my wife spill her bourbon, she was laughing so hard.

It would really help us and you, if you answered the questions we've been asking. Just repeating that you replaced the CPS doesn't really tell us anything new to go on.

Is this correct? If it is, are you getting fuel? Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key? If you put fuel into the TB will it start? I had an intermittent no-start problem and it was a loose connection of the fuel pump wiring inside the cab near the emergency brake.

I've seen them in JC Whitney, ~$120-$150 I think.

Check the EGR valve and transducer. Although "popping" doesn't really make sense for the EGR, it's an easy check.

Are the rear bumper end caps the same between MJs and XJs? Thanks.