fiatslug87

Here's another option viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12251

That's the beauty of the pre-91s, they're held in by pins & sheet metal nuts so the header is drilled, can't misalign them. I would put painter's tape down as a straight edge guide, I don't think a magnet will work, the header is fiberglass/plastic and the letters are non-ferrous (at least mine are). I used 3M trim adhesive tape as stated above for the other emblems and it works great (nice and clean) and looks great. It comes in a variety of widths so take your emblems with you.

I don't think you can make the rear XJ retainers work, some only have two studs, all MJ ones have three. Inevitably you will break a couple of studs, I have on all three of my MJs. What I've done is grind off the stud heads and punch out the studs. Then braze in new bolts (Stainless is preferred with the right brazing rod). It's pretty easy, just time consuming because I decided to replace all 36 studs every time. You can also try http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ go to the collision catalog then Fender, Exterior trim, Wheel flare, Retainer they're ~$15 each, then you'll need the nuts also (I assume). Not sure if they really have them, they list parts that aren't available sometimes. Good luck.

This is what the finished product looks like. I know you guys can make them. Just get the Matchbox Cherokees, drill out the rivets holding it together, strip all the paint, cut off the top past the b-pillar, cut the hatch and use it to extend the bed (and house the rear window), use the left over top to make the bed front (the ridges make it look right), sand off the ridges on the roof, fill in the gas tank door and all seams with model putty, sand everything. If your XJ has holes in the roof for a light bar just fill them with model putty. You'll have to modify the interior by cutting off the rear seats and covering the back portion with something to look like the bottom of the bed and cut the window to fit the front/side windows and use the rear window for the rear. Paint and assemble. I just use epoxy where the rivet posts come through base.

I couldn't find any either so I made my own out of some Matchbox 1:64 2-door Cherokees. The Red one is actually two XJs spliced together to extend the bed. The only 4-door Cherokees I’ve found are made by Majorette, but I have not converted those yet.

Just got mine today, just in time for Christmas !! They look GREAT. Thanks Brent, I can't believe you were able to get all three in that small box!!!

"Delete"? That's the stuff you "Archive". :chillin:

Tequila and Rum boys, no sissy watery beer over here!!! :yes:

Eeyore, Eeyore. :clapping:

Have you turned the headlight switch clockwise? This will dim and turn off the dash lights. And welcome to the club.

Thanks for all the effort you're putting into this Brent!!!

:agree: That is correct according to the FSM That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. Actually the '90 FSM says head bolt #11 should be coated with Locktite 592.

Here you go. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2348&hilit=extension

Try using an easy-out (screw extractor), that should work. Just be VERY careful when you drill it.

More for you sheep lovers http://www.break.com/index/dirty_deeds_ ... sheep.html

This sounds like the classic CPS problem. Try unplugging and replugging it, some have had success with this otherwise replace it.

Chico if you like rum try Ron Zacapa Centenario 23 Anos. The best rum I've ever had. Here's a little background http://www.rumdood.com/archive/2007/10/ ... nario.aspx Zaya is also good.

Here's the wiring manual for the '88 http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... =9&t=12734

Hey Pete, what Hemi cars were there?

Is this at the Walter P. Chrysler museum? I like the single tow hook, makes it look like it's snearing.

I was at the JY today and saw a '90 Cherokee with the retractable engine light with that connector!! I assumed the engine light connector was a single wire in my '90 like in my '88 & '89 but it's not. The Engine light for the '88 & '89 have a grounding wire that attaches to the support bar but the '90 light has both wires feeding into the connector. I should know to never ASSume :no: , especially with JEEPS!

clutch-to-floor safety is not on any of my MJ's. matter of fact, I've never once seen an xj or mj with it that's pre-1995 They probably already broke and had to be bypassed. Mind you, they were required by all states (they are in WA) That's not correct. I purchased my 1990 5 speed brand new off the lot. I start it in neutral without the clutch depressed and if I start it in gear without the clutch depressed it lurches forward. It's done this from day 1 and I'm in California where all the safety laws flourish. JeepcoMJ is correct.

The front heater vent for the full console set up has a large "hole" in the front where that black tube mates with it (at least Cherokee ones). The tube then runs around the gear shifter/selector to the back of the console where it forks to the two rear vents in the console.

I have two also, one is the bronze color the other is gold with the number 0085 stamped under the MJ on the front.

I put the rear heater tube in, this way I can put my hand behind the console and heat it up on our cold 40° California mornings. :yes: BookspanS, if you need a Cherokee front heater vent I can pull one at the JY if you can't get one.