Wildman

:hmm: I think you said the right thing :roll: If you had a compression test done, and the reading were in the good / spec range, why even think about rebuilding the engine??? We are talking about a '90, 4.0L, with 150k on the clock........right??? I hope guys with close to, or even over the 300K mark on there 4.0 will chime in here ;) Yes, I can under stand you want this to be show room perfect, but, if the engine was not neglected over the past 18 years, I'm sure you will get another 18 years and 150K out of the engine you have now :D Yes, change all of the seals and gaskets, you right bank oil leak could be from the oil filter adapter leaking, common. Nothing wrong with changing all the gaskets, changing the accessories, to upgrade, or make fresh. And even do the fuel injector replacement (see Taz's info on that) And you will spend less time in the rented garage, and enjoying driving the MJ sooner :yes: That's just my 2 cents.

:hmm: I think you said the right thing :roll: If you had a compression test done, and the reading were in the good / spec range, why even think about rebuilding the engine??? We are talking about a '90, 4.0L, with 150k on the clock........right??? I hope guys with close to, or even over the 300K mark on there 4.0 will chime in here ;) Yes, I can under stand you want this to be show room perfect, but, if the engine was not neglected over the past 18 years, I'm sure you will get another 18 years and 150K out of the engine you have now :D Yes, change all of the seals and gaskets, you right bank oil leak could be from the oil filter adapter leaking, common. Nothing wrong with changing all the gaskets, changing the accessories, to upgrade, or make fresh. And even do the fuel injector replacement (see Taz's info on that) And you will spend less time in the rented garage, and enjoying driving the MJ sooner :yes: That's just my 2 cents.

You can buy any of the heater hoses each - Rockauto The factory crimp fitting, you can slice one side of them, and pry them off, and use hose clamps as a replacement :D

You can buy any of the heater hoses each - Rockauto The factory crimp fitting, you can slice one side of them, and pry them off, and use hose clamps as a replacement :D

I'll have to go along with what Eagle and CW posted, But......if you have someone to help you, and show you what to do, and they have the proper tools, and experience then, Yes, it's a learning experience :D Brakes are one thing you don't want to fail when you Need them :eek: For brake line, you can buy a 25 foot roll at the parts store, you need 3/16" line. The "connectors" are called "Hollow nuts" there 3/8" x 3/16" you can buy these in bass or steel, and stick with the steel ones. Any connectors at the metering block, save them and reuse them, there odd fittings. Some one just had a post on what they used for the "plug" at the metering block, you can search that one out. I did mine with the "T" from the rear, and just joined the 2 lines at the metering block. While your at it, change out the soft line from the body/axle, and a good idea to change out the wheel cylinders at the same time with New ones. This will save you problems with disconnecting the old lines and the time saved there, pays for the parts. I'm not touching the subject of the "load leveler" :roll: Once you get the rear brake lines re-built, also plan doing the front lines, and the soft lines, then your all done with the brake plumbing. Here's one post to get you some additional info :yes:

I'll have to go along with what Eagle and CW posted, But......if you have someone to help you, and show you what to do, and they have the proper tools, and experience then, Yes, it's a learning experience :D Brakes are one thing you don't want to fail when you Need them :eek: For brake line, you can buy a 25 foot roll at the parts store, you need 3/16" line. The "connectors" are called "Hollow nuts" there 3/8" x 3/16" you can buy these in bass or steel, and stick with the steel ones. Any connectors at the metering block, save them and reuse them, there odd fittings. Some one just had a post on what they used for the "plug" at the metering block, you can search that one out. I did mine with the "T" from the rear, and just joined the 2 lines at the metering block. While your at it, change out the soft line from the body/axle, and a good idea to change out the wheel cylinders at the same time with New ones. This will save you problems with disconnecting the old lines and the time saved there, pays for the parts. I'm not touching the subject of the "load leveler" :roll: Once you get the rear brake lines re-built, also plan doing the front lines, and the soft lines, then your all done with the brake plumbing. Here's one post to get you some additional info :yes:

If your sure you used a 2057 (1157) bulb and it's installed correct, not turned 180* and back feeding thru the light switch.......... It never hurts to "re-do" the rear ground, behind the left tail light, with a new ring connector, new larger screw, some paint scraped off, and a dab of dielectric grease covering the connection. This is also the ground for your fuel pump/sender unit, so a better than good ground should be made. While you were pulling the tail light out to change the bulb, you could have worked some of the tail light harness loose. There are some crimp connectors in the rear harness, where the runs come off the feed and it's a pita to pull all the wiring out and check all the crimps, Do that as a last resort. There is also a connector just inside the rear pan, about 4" in, on the left side, that could have some corrosion in it, pull it apart, and check, any thing looking green.......no good. Use some contact cleaner in the connector, and apply some dielectric grease when re-connecting. Here's a link to the fuse panel- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... cation.htm The more I re-read your post, as a last item, your headlight switch could be starting to go south, and time for a replacement.

If your sure you used a 2057 (1157) bulb and it's installed correct, not turned 180* and back feeding thru the light switch.......... It never hurts to "re-do" the rear ground, behind the left tail light, with a new ring connector, new larger screw, some paint scraped off, and a dab of dielectric grease covering the connection. This is also the ground for your fuel pump/sender unit, so a better than good ground should be made. While you were pulling the tail light out to change the bulb, you could have worked some of the tail light harness loose. There are some crimp connectors in the rear harness, where the runs come off the feed and it's a pita to pull all the wiring out and check all the crimps, Do that as a last resort. There is also a connector just inside the rear pan, about 4" in, on the left side, that could have some corrosion in it, pull it apart, and check, any thing looking green.......no good. Use some contact cleaner in the connector, and apply some dielectric grease when re-connecting. Here's a link to the fuse panel- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... cation.htm The more I re-read your post, as a last item, your headlight switch could be starting to go south, and time for a replacement.

Where is Step #8 :dunno: EAT!!!

Ah, yea, I don't think anyone is one this channel 24/7 :hmm: Well........maybe a couple of people :roll: And Taz's info is what your looking for..........Check under the truck, front of the bell housing for fluid leaking out, good chance your internal slave has bit the dust. Check under the dash, above the fuse box, on the firewall for any fluid leaking out of the back side of master cylinder. And that will give you an idea what happen to the clutch.

OK.......you bleed the brakes.......Did you Re-adjust the brakes???? The "self adjuster" are not self adjuster, to get proper rear drum brakes, you need to properly adjust the self adjusters.........I know it's sounds :dunce: but I've never seen the "self adjusters" really do the proper job they should. There are a lot of articles written on this subject, so why re-write it???? http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ervice.htm http://www.familycar.com/brakes.htm

The MJ bench seat have 3 seat belts, driver, passenger, and middle. The bench belts are different from the bucket seat belts, mostly to the plastic 'stiffener' that holds the female end in the up right position, so their not flopping around on the floor. XJ seat belts would be the same as the MJ bucket seat belt female lock. The big difference come in the mounting at the 'B' pillar. The MJ retractable section it totally different from the XJ's. The XJ are longer due to mounting at the floor, where the MJ's retractable section mounts about mid point on the 'B' pillar. It's best to find a set of belts from an MJ for your replacement.

I wouldn't say it's warmer up here........not after last weekend.....down to 11* :eek: and most of the past week high of 20's. Just the winds have been right, and all the snow blew down south, so far. And a good thing too.........I still have not got my plow on the MJ :oops: I just like the idea that people that never get the snow, have a little taste of it ever now and then..........we get our share up here, and like to spread it around ever now and then :D Mr. hornbord, can you even buy a snow shovel at the hardware store down there???? :teehee:

There is really nothing wrong with the 2.5 engine, just that once you feel the difference of the 4.0, you never go back :yes: My first '89 MJ 2wd was the 2.5, with the BA-10, getting around town, not a problem, hitting the high way, 50-55 was a struggle, going up a incline, had to drop to 4th to keep up with 50mph :oops: Next MJ was the 4.0, and all the rest are 4.0, I will not go back :D Yes, think about this, the engine is 20 years old, the ignition system is 20 years old, the sensors and ECU are 20 year old technology, Kind of before the platinum plugs were really on the shelf.........Older engine, stick with the older technology. Platinum plugs........I lost a Ford 302 engine to these, it's amazing what that little piece of steel can do to the top of a piston :fs1: I wouldn't install them in any engine, even if someone gave me them for free. I was kidding about the boom box stereo, as to 'cover' the squeaks you have :roll: Ah, yea, as soon as you find these, let us all know, the MJ Taillights have not been made since 1992 :roll: Get your mechanics squared up first, like replacing all the 20 year old seals and gaskets, and replacing worn out bearing and u-joints, then plan on the glamor upgrades :D

Oh......how I know......it's even hard to get a cube van and a car hauler up your "Driveway" in the spring time :shake: And it's more like a 1/2 mile :roll:

:teehee: We don't have any snow up here........yet. Little dusting, and south of the city, the ski slopes are open with a 3 foot base. About time you people south of the Mason-Dixon line get some of the white stuff :teehee:

Yes is is.............K.I.S.S. :yes: Well.........close, it's actually the Cam Position Sensor. So......all this problems with it running.......came down to the spark plug wires :shake: Hopefully it's not the "body" creaking (it's a Uni-body / Frame combination) cause that would be a bad thing.......it's more than likely the 20 year old suspension you hear creaking, like all the 'old' bushings in the leafs, control arms.......and the springs from sitting for some time. Easy fix........New suspension with the lift, Or........a boom box stereo So, it's running, It' driving........now it's time for- :needpics:

The only other source I've seen for the BA-10 tranny mount is from Team Cherokee- http://www.teamcherokee.com/Transmission/index.html Bottom of the page.........For $95. A little less that the dealer :roll: I don't think I have a "good" one on hand right now........but others' here might. BTW.......the tranny mount for the AW-4 and AX-15, the one on the left in your picture, can be bought thru Rockauto for about $18. Before you run out and buy the transmission mount, get under the truck, and use a long pry bar between the mount and the cross member, and pry up on the transmission mount, to see if it spreads, most of the ones I've seen bad, are torn, or the rubber is separated from the steel plates, then you'll know if replacement is needed.

Whoo'er.........I thought you had all them problems from that 'blow fish' episode :hmm: Well......glad to hear you found the problem :thumbsup: Join the club, my one brother also found out about his sleep apnea a couple years ago.........I'm safe for now, cause he's much, much older than me :roll:

Now this is driving me :nuts: I'll check the bolts in the shop tomorrow to find out which Torx fits. At least for a '88. And yea........BP Blaster on the bolts........but from underneath, in the tranny tunnel, as the bolts thread thru the brace and are exposed in the tunnel. WD-40 works best and only for drying out a distributor cap, inside, and that's all it's good for :roll:

More that likely the idler pulley. But, is she turning hard right / left when she hears the squeak??? like the power steering pump squeaking from overturning and holding the wheel thigh??

I don't think we Hijacked this thread.........just added additional information to it :D I'll check tomorrow when I'm over to the shop, but I know the one does not have the black glass..........I'll check whats there. Oh......and the big bucks.......well, just have to buy more MJ's then wouldn't I :yes:

Well Mr. Hornbrod........some of us have to work, everyday :( And yes, I see your New sun shade installed in your pictures :yes:

oops... I forgets, I failed Proof-reading class!! :teehee: I usually pop them off not meaning too!!! :no:

Yea.......I couldn't remember if it was #50 or #55.......so I took the high road :D And as far as running out and getting one......you can get a set of like 8 sizes for under $15, and you will need then for other bolts on the truck.