Wildman

You could be right Wahoo........e-bay has some stupid setups :hmm: Regardless..........some one got a deal on a pair for $150 :teehee:

Loose / bad shock, broken leaf spring, best to craw under the back end, and if you can, get a helper in the box jumping up and down and look around.

Thanks.......I couldn't remember which color line went to the switch :thumbsup:

Yes, you need to adjust the rear drums first, before you tighten up the equalizer for the cables. HERE is the How-to for adjusting the rear brakes ( and it saves me alot of typing :D ) If you don't, you'll put a lot of stress on the cables, and the emergency brake mechanism, to the point.......some thing will break :eek: Yea, we that the same deal in NY on the emergency brakes :fs1:

Correct, just remove the 2 lines that go to the CAD, Cap them off at the Xcase switch and leave the one line that goes to the 4WD switch (up under the heater fan) and the light in the dash should still function.

So.......I was wrong.......again :( Checked this morning, and the one set sold for $150......but.....it had 10 bids.....all from the same bidder :hmm: Me smells something funny there :roll: And.......streetjeep2.5.......Thanks for posting that up.......I was thinking of the same thing with a few sets I got collecting dust :brows:

Well........I just want to make it clear for the man........The fuel tank is in front of the rear axle, and this connector is quite far behind the axle.

At first, I thought this was going to be a Toyota Question :hmm: All the above ^, and also........check the return spring on the Throttle body to see if it's broke, I have seen this before ;)

No.......It's just inside the rear apron, on the left side, near the LH frame rail. That connector has 4 wires to it 18 BR = RH stop/turn 18 GY/BK = LH stop/turn 18 BR/WT = Backup 18 DB = Parking lamps There is also a connector above the parking brake, on the LH kick panel, but if that was a problem, the fuel pump would not be working. You could have a problem with the wire where it runs behind the fuel tank, it could be pinched or corroded in that area. Check off the connector first, and back trace.

I think the party is over :hmm: These been up all week........and no bids...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT And even the bargain pair is Nada on the bids...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT Guest I'll be packing mine away for another rainy day :(

Ok.........maybe I'm reading this wrong........You have not been driving it much???? you had the tank on the low side......durn the winter months???? It spits and farts every once in a while........and ........Did I read that right :hmm: 1) gas only has a 3-4 week shelf life (in the tank) then it becomes "stale" gas. Unless you add some stabilizer to it when it's new and fresh. 2) You should keep the fuel tank filled and topped off durn the winter, because the tank can condensate and collect Water in the tank. The engine, any engine will not run on water. 3) you should keep some dry gas on hand durn the winter months, and use it, if the temp drops below freezing, and the above #2 is the reason why. 3a) as my neighbor across the street about that, right after the 1st when his blazer would not start.......I dump a can of dry gas in, and 20 minutes later (that's how long you should wait) after jumping him, it fired right up, but, we had to run the "frozen" gas thru the system first :roll: So.......all the parts you thru at it........could be just the gas your running :hmm: So.......the above reasons could be the real problem your having :dunno:

:teehee: I was thinking the same thing :rotf: If you can find/barrow a ignition module/coil combo, and swap that out now, toss your old one in the cab, and drive around to find out if that is your problem, then you got it knocked. The CPS should only be replace with a new one, not used, and yes, the Dealer part is much better in that choice. You know there's the 'ole' trick of unplugging the CPS connector when it will not start, as a temporary fix, if that the problem........But, I agree, it's also easy to do an ohm's test on it.

:bowdown: Now that ones good....... :rotfl2: Some how I see some truth in that :hmm:

Yep........another K.I.S.S. project :cheers:

:agree: Just run the 2.8 until it dies.......or you find a cheap XJ for a 4.0 swap. You could leave the 4.10's in there for a little better gearing. And with that AMC 20 in the rear......you never want to loose sight of that :D You don't need another MJ to do a drive train swap, that's what all them XJ's out there are for :brows:

You can order a replacement line......... www.rockauto.com DORMAN Part # H38935 {First Stop #5300 4504} w/Peugeot Trans $20.79

Yea.......CWLongshot did this in his project build.......this should be the page..... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1230&hilit=cleaning+rims&start=255 About 3/4 the way down the page ;)

Because...........When your 'Older' you work smarter......not harder :yes: :teehee:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9208&start=0 Just click that and it will give you all the info :D

Remove the seat back, 1 Tork bolt on each side, remove back out of the way. Then you can reach the 2 seat belt tork bolts on the tranny hump. Remove floor bolts, 4 on each base side. Slide seat bottom out passenger door. This way, you don't need any helper, or wrestle a 300 pound gorilla :D (Plus........my back is old and tired :( )

KISS works Every time :yes:

NP :D

Ya know........alot of this info is here........I seen your other post about the bed bolts. There is a complete section "DIY" that has a ton of info in it........ viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11380&view=unread#unread That should answer your question :D Oh.......and scroll down a few, and you'll find a complete list that Cherokee composed. The bed is not installed with 'carriage bolts' there are welded nuts on the bottom of the bed.

It kind of sounds like the ignition module is getting heat soaked :hmm: If you can grab a spare one and swap it in, see if that make a difference. Your.......shut if off sit 5-10 -15min fire it back up .....makes me think of that.

It has a single bolt/screw in the base.......but......I wouldn't try to remove it.......it's not in the best of shape :roll: