Eagle_SX4

4wd transmissions have shorter tail housings and output shafts than their 2wd counterparts and require a transfer case to mount a driveshaft. If you want to keep it 2wd then source a 2wd transmission. If you ever want to swap to 4wd then get a 4wd transmission and transfer case.

If you want the factory switch to still function you will need to completely reroute the vacuum lines to delete the CAD portion and just use the vacuum switch on the transfer case to switch the light on and off. It is possible but I don't have any tips on the best way to do that. Not really that I know of. Unless you get stuck and watch the front wheels spin. Or get stuck in 2wd and switch to 4wd and see if you can get out.

Yes the switch is vacuum powered so whatever you did to plug the Vacuum lines has caused it to supply vacuum to the switch when 4x4 is engaged but not release the vacuum when 4x4 is disengaged. The switch is located on the firewall below the HVAC blower motor.

By blowing into the port you are creating the reverse flow of the vacuum. Which means that your check valve is working as it should and not letting air into the HVAC controls. The VAC side of the canister should be hooked up to the intake manifold. The check valve was used to help keep the HVAC controls in constant vacuum. So they would stay put while under acceleration and not go to the defroster which is the default position when there is no vacuum.

My guess is that is correct. I have not had any of the smaller vacuum canisters to test. You could try hooking up a vacuum hose and blowing into it. If you can blow into the port then it doesn't have a check valve and then try the same with the other side. Which ever side you can blow into does not have the check valve and should be hooked up to the HVAC controls. The other side should be hooked up to the vacuum source(intake manifold).

Yes, there is a check valve in all canisters with 2 or 4 ports. The single port canisters do not have a check valve and one needs to be added into the system to prevent vacuum bleed off.

That is the high beam switch not the ignition switch. The ignition switch is on the other side of the steering column.

One of the ports has a check valve on it. That is the one that gets hooked up to the manifold. The other one is open and will not hold vacuum. To test it pull a vacuum on the port with out the check valve and it should hold vacuum with no cap on the port. If you can't get it to hold vacuum on either port the check valve is likely bad or the canister has a leak.

I found the post I remembered reading. The part number is Mopar 52003248. There was one on eBay. But it is gone now. Good luck with the search.

All the new tariffs certainly make it a challenge to get stuff out of the states. I remember a post about someone finding that pipe new. I will try and find it.

I have one I pulled off my truck 2 months ago when I went to an open cooling system. (rust free) See my classified post.

Sand the paint off the timing marks as well it will make it much easier to see when you get it back in the car.

I will add to the CRV conversation and say that I owned a stick shift '03 and thought it was fantastic. I only sold it because I bought my Comanche. If I was to purchase a CRV again I would get an 05 or 06 stick shift. The 2nd gen CRV's have the least powerful K24 engine available but it still packs a punch and was very fun to drive spirited. The manual transmission helped with that. For daily driving I would pick a manual transmission 2nd gen CRV over an XJ any day.

I found the post I made about my sway bar there is a pic. It was before I shortened the links.

I installed a stock WJ rear bar on mine and am happy with it. The only issue that may pop up is interference with the leaf springs because the link end points end up directly above the leaf springs on each side. Barnes4wd sells TJ sway bar mount brackets that can be welded to your axle and they are the same bolt spacing as the WJ mounting brackets. I followed Hornbods thread for the installation except I mounted my bar about 4 inches higher on my axle and shortened the links so that there is less chance of leaf spring interference.

I used a Wildwood adjustable proportioning valve when I replaced mine. At the same time I deleted the rear height sensing valve. Do you still have the rear valve (mounted above the rear axle) on your truck?

This may help. I don't know if the codes are different for the 2.5 but might get you started.

I checked my order and I ordered this set from Rockauto. It has been great. Dana Spicer 7060175X. It is not a thick cut set and would require you to get a new differential carrier. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4900440

I wasn't aware dana had a budget line. Thanks for the info.

Yes they are still available. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1988,comanche,4.0l+242cid+l6,1181584,drivetrain,differential+clutch+pack,19715

I would stay away from used gears. I put a used set of 4.10's in the front axle of my truck and I am probably going to end up replacing them next year. I bought new gears and a truetrac for the rear 44 and they are doing great. Rock auto has standalone thick gear sets for $150. DANA brand. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8529284&cc=1181483&pt=10438 Just remember that you need a full bearing kit to set up gears properly and it is cheaper to buy the kit than everything separately.

The 91-95 valve covers look the same as the Renix cover but most of the time they are painted black. Sandblasting would take care of that real quick.

After I swapped an H.O. block into my truck I will say that I would just swap the valve cover to a newer style as the newer valve covers do a better job at sealing both ports for the breather and CCV. Also the later stamped steel valve covers have way better baffles to keep the oil out of the air filter.

I also have ordered 2 sets from them the first set was orange (Renix) and the 2nd was grey (for the 92 H.O. in my Eagle). They do look like knock offs but I don't know how to tell for sure. But they are running just fine.

The upper control arm axle side bolts were t50 torx from the factory mine were the same way. Can you get a look at the bolt head? It may be that it was replaced with a 12 point head. Those can be tricky to get a wrench on sometimes. Especially if slightly rounded. If 15 mm is to big and 14 mm is to small the only size in between is 9/16. I suggest using the 9/16 on an extension and using a hammer to force it on to the bolt. I have done that before.