Eagle_SX4

To start off this is pertaining to my Eagle that has a 92 H.O. fuel injected 4.0 in it. I finally got a check engine light wired in and read the codes as described here. My codes are 12 36 33 41 55. 12 battery has been disconnected 36 air switch solenoid 33 A/C circuit 41 Alternator circuit 55 end of codes I disconnected the battery yesterday(12). I don't have A/C(33). My Alternator is not hooked up to the computer(41). The one I don't understand is the 36 air switch solenoid. What is that?

Yeah I am very happy with them so far. Although a little mad because I lost one of the hub caps somewhere on the road shortly after swapping out my snow tires. Luckily I have a spare.

Both of these turbines were made in the US but are different thicknesses. 1-1/8 vs 1-1/4 The thicker wheel also has thicker webbing on the back

Yeah they are 215/75R15

I got the harness installed inline with the alternator plug and now my car shuts off like it should. This seems to be a common problem with the GM 3 wire alternators. Also I got my new tires out on.

As far as I know the timer is in the switch itself and not in the module. It is my understanding that there is a variable resistor in the switch and some capacitors in module. Depending on the location of the switch the capacitors will charge up faster or slower giving you your different delay speeds. I got several delay modules and all of them were 1-2 minute delay between the fast and slow delay setting. I changed my switch out with a new one and now it works much better with the same module. 5 seconds to about 45 seconds delay.

You can buy complete internals for the stock shifter but those don't address the problems with the tower its self. The side pins on mine were worn out and loose, causing a dripping leak. Even when everything is new and functioning properly there will always be slop in the factory shifter because of the spring loaded design.

Shout out to @krustyballer16 and the fabulous work he has done with making both the seat and hitch brackets. Got them in the mail today. They are well made and I am excited to get them on my truck.

Yes the YJ had the AX5 my coworker has a 91 that had the 2.5 AX5 combo. He swapped the AX5 out to an AX15.

Yes it did from 87-91 here is a cool write up on the history of the AMC 2.5 liter. https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-amc-2-5-liter-four-cylinder-engine.230002/?post_id=1085224100&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1085224100

Another option to use the 229, is to find a Borg warner T5 out of a 84+ 2.5 liter CJ5/7. Should bolt right up.

There are several on car-part.com just search for 1988 jeep Cherokee transfer case and select the NP242 case all of those should be 21 splines.

Well more alternator problems. The parts store ordered 2 more alternators in and both of them had bad bearings but tested good. My car still won't shut down even with a properly functioning alternator. I went to a different parts store and ordered another alternator from them. It will be here tomorrow morning. Hopefully it tests good and has good bearings. Found this forum post and I think it might be the solution I have been looking for. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-do-i-wire-a-gm-3-wire-alternator.30629/ It talks about using a diode on the switched ignition wire to stop any back feed voltage that the alternator puts out. There is a simple harness available that adds a diode to the switched ignition wire. I ordered one and will see if that fixes my issue. It looks like this.

I have had this issue before on my 87. Since I changed the IAC I haven't had it happen again.

Mine came out of an 89 grand wagoneer and was the same size as the NP129 I pulled out of my Eagle. It has the same bolt pattern and input splines and shaft size as the NP231 and NP242 I have had in my Comanche. I haven't ever had a 207 but thought all of them would interchange given you have the right input shaft.

What is wrong with the 229 you have? Is it the clocking of the tail housing? I had to drill new holes in the back half of the case to clock the tail housing to get the proper angle on the speedometer cable for my Eagle.

Got my tires switched from my old wheels to the TJ Canyon rims.

About 6 months ago I got the Timken hubs from Rock Auto and have not had any problems with them. Just stick with the non greasable Dana joints. Best quality and longest lasting.

Off to the tire shop with 12 tires in the bed. 4 30's, 4 31's and 4 215/75r15's.

Thanks I am very happy with them. I almost picked up some 91 limited door cards. They have the same design but they are dark grey on the bottom instead of black. Also these don't have the hole for the manual window crank. That hole had been bugging me since I put the 97+ power windows in. Off to the tire shop to get new tires for my Eagle and get my 31's switched on to the TJ rims. Total of 12 tires in the bed. 4 31x10.5r15's, 4 30x9.5r15's and 4 215/75r15's.

Last weekend at the junkyard I scored a set of nearly perfect 87 1/2 limited door cards. With excellent condition black arm rests with chrome trim. Got them put on today.

@89 MJ the 4.0 in the eagle is awesome. I really like it especially with the fuel injection. I did a Cherokee tank swap because the sx4 and Cherokee tanks are almost identical but the wagon ones are different. The Cherokee tank might still fit however. An LS eagle would be awesome. I actually sold my sx4 tank to guy that has a spirit he shoehorned a big block Chevy 454 into. So an LS will have no problem fitting in there. Guess it just depends on how long you want your tires to last. I know that if I put an LS into my Eagle my tires would be gone very quickly. But what ever you decide make sure you run fuel injection. Carbs can be made to work but fuel injection is so much easier to maintain and tune.

Recently got Bilstein 5100 shocks on all 4 corners and they are so much better than old the old ones. Had some new cheap pro comps on the front but the Bilstein's blow them out of the water.

The problem with running a Cherokee sending unit in a Comanche tank is the pickup won't get to the bottom because the sump is in the way. You would need to remove and relocate the sump for it to work properly. There was a Cherokee sending unit in my truck when I bought it. It ran fine when the tank was full but I could never use all of the gas because the pick up was in the wrong. place. I think what you might need to do is combine an MJ specific hanger with the newer 96 pump/regulator/sending unit. So that it matches the location of the stock left side sending unit.

The difference between the Cherokee and Comanche sending units is the Cherokee sending unit goes to the right and the Comanche goes to the left. According to Rock Auto all 87-92 Comanches used the same fuel pump. The Cherokee changed to the turbine style pumps in 94. The 94-95 Cherokee fuel sending units are not available any where. But you can get a 96 sending unit assembly Crown Automotive Part #: 5003869AA. But because it is for a Cherokee it won't drop in to your tank.