Eagle_SX4

As far as I know you could get either the tow eye brackets or the hooks. They are interchangeable and not designed to be used together. Those hooks appear to be original. I pulled the same set off a '87 Cherokee in the junkyard.

Looks like you still have the original wiper arms on the windshield. While they work the 97+ XJ wiper arms are a direct swap and you get a much better wiper attachment with the hook style instead of the original skewer style.

I was going to use a '93 fuel rail but I didn't want to make new fuel lines. The Renix fuel rail also runs cooler due the full circulation of fuel and shouldn't vapor lock as easily.

Yes the bolt holes don't line up so I cut the center 2 feet off and welded some 90 degree brackets on them and it works very well.

That is really cool. I kept my Renix fuel rail when I swapped in a 98+ manifold. If I ever have fuel pressure issues. This will be the solution.

This is a massive project and you have made great progress. Keep up the good work.

I completely agree my Eagle gets more attention than my Comanche does. I only get waves from other XJ owners in my Comanche but I will get waves and comments on my Eagle from just about everyone.

I checked both my Eagle and my dad's and the only vacuum line for the HVAC is for the heater control valve everything else is cable actuated. I wish the Comanches were like that.

The radio looks great installed. Glad that it is getting used instead of sitting on my shelf.

For stock ride height I would run the KYB gas-a-just monotubes. They are a great shock that rides very well. I have them on my Eagle and had them on my old Jaguar. They are about $40 each on Rockauto.

When you are checking the CPS are you cranking the engine over with the starter? The CPS only creates voltage when the engine is spinning.

Here is the thread I found the engine block casting info in.

As far as I know the 95 engine had MPFI (multi port fuel injection). The 86 had TBI (throttle body injection). If you still have throttle body injection it is likely that only the engine was changed and all of the original engine accessories were retained. Including manifolds and fuel and timing systems. Some more pics of the intake manifold and throttle body would be very helpful in determining what was changed or not. Also I realized I was wrong on the year of the engine. It is a 1985 engine which would mean it is likely original to the truck. The engine block casting number underneath the date code and kind of hard to see in the picture is 3239443 which was made between 83 and 88. That along with the date stamp leads to a 1985 engine block. I am very sorry for the confusion. The date code along is not enough info to correctly date an engine and I should have known that before I posted earlier. A 1995 distributor likely won't have the same connector and won't plug into your existing harness.

Being you have an 87 there was a TSB for this issue. It is covered by I.S. Note 34E. In short if your distributor is leaking from the vent hole ("A" in Fig. 1) you should replace your distributor.

This engine block is a 2.5 liter and was made on May 23, 1995. So it is defiantly newer than your Comanche. That doesn't help with your timing issue but thought if you knew what year it was, it might help narrow things down if any internals changed between 86 and 95.

Thought I would share something cool that not many people know. There are 3 different wood bezels. 1) '87 Wagoneer XJ 2) '92 Cherokee Briarwood 3) '93 Cherokee Country The Wagoneer and Briarwood are nearly identical other than the color and no chrome highlights on the borders. The Country version is full gloss and doesn't have the raised trim around each of the openings.

I tested the RX-135 and the radio and front speakers work. (I didn't have access to the rear speaker plugs in my truck). I also found I have a RX-172 but I can't test that one as I don't have a plug for it.

Okay I will take some pics tonight and test it. I pulled it out of a junkyard but never tested it.

I have an RX-135 I won't use. I will get picks tonight if you are interested.

I am not aware of a master chart with bolts sizes and part numbers. I have run into the same issue before. I think it is a great idea to start one. When bolts get replaced we can post the type, size and length of the bolts that got replaced.

It is linked in your signature at the bottom of your post.

@Pete M Looks like there are rear Colorado Red flares.

Found this listing on ebay. If anybody is near Sydney, Ohio. Looks to be at a junkyard. https://www.ebay.com/itm/175235115012?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20250416171351%26meid%3Ddc49bba9b5964f6ca24eb86966ea8a5e%26pid%3D102672%26rk%3D18%26rkt%3D24%26mehot%3Dnone%26itm%3D175235115012%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DOrganicPersonalizedRecoSearchEchoWithVDB%26brand%3DJeep%26tu%3D01K84NBQ0KQQ6QN10RDGRCPZKS

If your distributor is actually turning maybe your oil pump is too tight. You can pull your distributor and use a long flat blade screw driver to check if it spins freely or not.

The date code on the engine is just above the distributor hole towards the front slightly. First number is the year, second 2 are the month and the last 2 are the day.