Eagle_SX4

I have never seen step washer on a manifold before. Both manifolds should have flanges that are the same thickness. They may have been there from a machine shop surfacing a warped header to get it back to flat.

Those look to be dorman check valves. Which seem to be the most available aftermarket ones.

Good to see another Comanche with a NP242. You will enjoy it.

Yeah most likely just condensation in the crank case. Has the weather gotten colder recently? The colder it is the more condensation will build up in the engine especially if only driven short distances. With your ccv hose unattached to the air box you will definitely get more oil smells in the cab. Defiantly do the valve cover mod, replace the gasket and reattach your ccv hose. And while the valve cover is off clean everything really well so you can see more clearly see if you still have a leak and where the oil is coming from.

Adjustable ball joints might be the answer. I will take it to the shop and get the alignment checked and then measure my self to make sure I can repeat the numbers then decide if adjustable ball joints will be enough.

That PVC pipe trick is a good idea. I will have to make one and check my angles.

I measured my axle and one C is 7-5/8 the other is 7-3/4.

@Boilermaker Thanks for the measurement. As for the angles I was thinking from the top of the axle tube to the top of the upper ear (or ball joint) and the inside vertical face of the "C". A digital angle finder would be the easiest.

Yes. I would like to know the distance between the ears where the ball joints are and the angle from the axle tube to the "C".

I know that the "C's" on the end of my axle are bent and I have to much camber on the front. I am going to pull an axle out of the junkyard to replace it then weld some gussets and maybe a truss on to strengthen them so it hopefully doesn't happen again. Does any one have any measurements/angles they can provide so I can find an axle that is not bent?

The 4.2 intake manifold is easier to install because the runners are about half the length of the 4.0 runners. Also glad to hear that it is going back together smoothly.

The one thing that bugs me about the Comanche is that you can't turn off the HVAC fan without shutting the vents. My Eagle has the same layout for the HVAC controls but the fan will shut off with out shutting the vents. Sometimes I just want the vents open with the fan off.

I can't find this one on their website. It may have already been crushed.

Sounds like you have lots of debris in the tank. A new filter and strainer would likely solve your problems for a while. Definitely have a look inside the tank and see what the problem is. Rust, dirt or varnish. If it is just dirt or varnish pull the tank out and thoroughly flush and clean it. If there is rust you will need a new tank.

According to the parts diagrams on moparpartsgiant.com. The part number for the shifter housing is the same between the early and late model XJ's. That newer shift gate should bolt right on the shifter in your Comanche. Yes the driveshaft will work just fine. I have a 97 NP242 in my truck and used the original driveshaft. After installing the transfer case double check the length of your driveshaft. I did need to get it shorted by 3/4 of an inch. All the specs I could find said my driveshaft was supposed to be shorter than it was. It may be just mine that was made wrong from the factory.

Both my dad's Eagle and mine never reach the middle of the temp gauge. The highest I have seen mine go the needle just barely got past the 2 blue lines in the logo. It usually sits about centered between 2nd white line and the blue lines of the logo. I will get a pic next time I drive it.

I love the 242 in my truck for the same reasons. That is a good condition shift bezel and that color is 87 exclusive very good find. If you didn't grab it go get the shift gate off the shifter it is slightly different than the 231 and will make shifting easier.

That is a good sign. Hopefully you can get away without replacing it.

Just be aware that the aftermarket heater cores are available but for some reason are shorter in one direction. Just use some foam to fill the gap. I used something similar to this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-2-25-in-x-42-in-Gray-Window-Seal-for-Window-Air-Conditioner-Weatherstrip-02535/100353457 You don't have to fully remove the dash to get the heater core out. Just remove the screw along the windshield and loosen the 2 bolts on the "A" pilar below the dash and pull the passenger side away from the fire wall and you will have enough room to the the HVAC box out. If you have AC it is 2 section one with the heater core and 1 with the AC evaporator. You don't need to remove the AC side the heater core side just slide outs.

Not that it really matters but the previous owner switched my truck to an internal slave AX15 and it had the 3/4 inch inputshaft. I was very surprised to find this when I changed to the external slave setup. I think the switch to the larger input shaft was before the external slave cylinder. You may already have the larger input shaft you will have to measure it when you pull out your transmission. Also when I switched to the external slave cylinder I did not change my clutch because it had less than 10,000 miles on it and was in great shape. I did not run into any issues with the internal slave clutch with the external slave cylinder.

Isolate the booster as the source of the leak. Pull the vacuum line off the intake manifold and plug it. See if your symptoms go away. I would do this only after the engine is showing the symptoms. Your brake pedal will be much harder to use so DRIVE WITH CAUTION.

The Renix and H.O. fuel rails use the same test port. I just verified with my extra 94 rail and my 87 rail.

Probably. You can make that one work but you will have some fabrication to do to get it to sit on the hanger.

Just make sure it comes with the adapters. The Bosch pump is smaller than the original and needs the adapters to fit properly on the sending unit. This pic has every thing that should be included with the fuel pump. Yeah, the rule of thumb is new pump new strainer. The good thing about the 69302 is that it uses the stock strainer which is much bigger than most of the newer ones.

I would just wait for them to come back in stock. For now just change your fuel pump. Then when the sending units are in stock swap your new pump over to the new sending unit. The fuel pump mounts to the side of the tank by the drive line. You don't have to pull the tank to get the fuel pump changed. It does make it easier but not necessary. It might be easier to pull the driveshaft, that would give you more than enough room to pull the sending unit. Also you need to pull the tank to get the bed off so taking the bed off is completely unnecessary.