dave92cherokee

Same recently happened to me in the last couple of days. My email wasn't hacked it's just the way they spoof email addy's to make it look like it came from your account and was sent to everyone in the contact/safe sender list. Then I got emails back saying it was undeliverable with just a link in the email.

The pan is needed for FI engines, if it's carb'd then you don't need the pan as the fuel sender is different.

Until you get your orange wire to provide the 5v that is should it will not start. The no spark is because the cps isn't working because there's no 5v.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1091389&highlight=test+cps Sorry there's the link to it I copied it in the post yesterday but it didn't show up. I also noted in that post that the 5v goes to the cam sensor, oil pressure sensor, crank sensor, MAP sensor, and throttle position sensor. Any one of them could have gone south and blown the 5v circuit in the PCM. I would suggest looking around on naxja on how to test each one of those as any of them could be the culprit that caused the problem.

The email I sent you will go into detail how to test everything but here's a link to naxja that i found that talks about how to test the cps.

PM me on the backside with your email addy and I'll send you something to help with the xj. In the mean time I looked through the fsm and the Orange wire from pin A17 is the 5V supply line. It connects to the crank sensor, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor, map sensor, and throttle position sensor. If you unplug all of those at the same time and still only measure .5V on the line then the PCM is bad as it's not putting out the 5V. If that is the case then I would suggest looking on NAXJA and searching for how to test each sensor to make sure the sensor is good and it won't short out a replacement pcm.

Ok so to clarify fuse 22 in the pdc under the hood is the culprit causing there to be a 1.6A draw on the battery when the xj is off correct? You say that removing the fuse causes the battery drain to drop to very little current draw which is a good sign. That fuse only goes to 2 places, it goes to the fuel pump relay which then passes power to the fuel pump being that wire is the side of the relay that gets switched instead of powering the relay. The other place it goes is to the PCM when it splits off at the connector for the relay. Fuse 11 in the junction block simply powers the fuel pump relay and that's it. Since you said that there's still a drain with the relay removed sounds like you've got a jacked PCM.

Slifter is talking about wheeling the mj and keeping it auto when he swaps to a 4x4. Get a D30 from any 97+ xj and get it regeared to match the rear (hopefully D44). If the rear is a D35 then you'll want to replace that anyways. I would recommend just getting a 91-95 xj 4.0 4wd that has been wrecked but the drivetrain's still good and do a complete swap. Then if you have a rear 44 you'll already be a step ahead when you go up to 33's or so.

If it's hated right now wait until we get done installing the new equipment and people actually have to pay instead of relying on the "honor system". Once the equipment is in and working next spring there won't be anymore free rides as the faregates won't open unless a valid paid ticket is tapped to open it.

lol yah didn't realize there was a vancouver, wa it's BC i'm staying downtown working nightshift for the next month

Just throwing this out there to see. Gonna be in vancouver for the next month working on the skytrain system and would enjoy meeting some fellow mj'ers up here so there's something to talk about instead of looking at the hotel all day.

If I remember correctly it was from the late 90's zjs like 95-99.

The grand cherokee door seals are also an upgrade that alot of the xj guys use and could be used as well on mj's.

That's a beautiful looking rig you've got. To answer your question the widest flairs I know of for the front will either be bushwackers or I think rustys off road sells some pretty wide ones too.

When you hooked it up did you sync it up to the wireless receiver? Not sure about the one you have but most of the have to have the button on the receiver pressed then press the button on the mouse to sync them together.

With it sitting on a stand like that I would run a string around it and measure the size belt you need. Then you can just look onlIne to see what length belts the newer models use and see if it's close.

Looks just like the tnjeeps forum design and layout. So maybe if there are any bugs with the conversion or the new layout or anything you can get in touch with the admin's there for extra help.

Using firefox on vista doesn't give me any limitation either. It creates a scroll bar on the right and even under that I can click/drag the corner of the window to make it whatever size I want to.

Both of my 4dr mj stickers arrived yesterday and look awesome.

Not sure how much the jasoer engines run but another more logical option is Titan stroker engines. If I was dropping the money to completely restore an mj through a mechanic and body shop then I'd upgrade when and where I could such as a stroker and upgraded trans as well because the ba 10 is regarded as a bad choice and very weak.

Take a look on NAXJA about the WJ conversion. It's a real popular conversion for those with the D30 axle which the 2wd beam uses the same outers and everything so it could be used as well.

Figure out the optimal pressure for your tires instead of what works in someone else's tires. Get some sidewalk chalk and draw 2-3 lines across the entire tread of each tire. Then move it back and fourth a few times then look to see where the chalk's been rubbed off at. If it's rubbed off inside but not outside deflate some, and if it's rubbed off outside but not inside inflate some. Then re-run the test until it rubs off evenly.

what you mean is a Cherokee then? :rotf: No I mean a quad cab mj for me to put on the back window of mine the a spare or two incase the window gets busted.

Any luck on him being able to make a 4dr mj one? if so I'd be down for 2 of them.

Those links will be good for the front half of the manches but won't do you any good for the back half from the cab back as wiring and everything's different from XJ's. Most people on here find a copy now and then on ebay for sale but I'm unaware of any free legit copies for mj's.