Gojira94

Mine's a complete drivetrain swap from a '93 YJ, plus '99-'01 intake and keeping the 93 exhaust manifold on the '93 7120 head. My exhaust is a mix of off the shelf parts. But it's all controlled by Renix computer and harnesses. I did have to do some mods to the harness wrapping on the injector harness for the IAC and TPS connectors to get them to reach, plus making a harness extension for the IAT. I did a Durango V8 alternator swap with an external regulator as well, but all the original Renix harnesses could still be pulled and put on any other Renix vehicle, plug & play. The engine control harness is from '89 or '90, pretty sure it's '89. So all sensors I have are for Renix. Essentially I just went the route of least effort/ lowest cost I could manage to run an HO drivetrain on Renix. any 4.0 head will fit on any 4.0 block...

Yes, I'm considering the DS1311 drag link as an option due to its extra .88" length at the threaded end. DS1312 is the steering tie rod from drag link to left knuckle. I've already got a beefy solution for that part myself and it uses the ends you have listed above. DS1311 remains an option over the DS1238 drag link for extra sleeve engagement on rigs > 4" lift, though it is too long for rigs < 3-4" lift. Like I said the DS1238 is adequate on 6" but another .88" sleeve thread engagement is a good thing on higher lifts with room for it.

@coolwind57 How much lift are you running? I'm looking at running the DS1311 to get a little more engagement in the sleeve due to the lift. What I have with the DS1238 is adequate, but the gap in the sleeve is greater than the additional .88" length of the DS1311 with the steering wheel straight on 6" lift. I'd think the DS1311 would be a good fit for rigs over 4" lift. EDIT: I just looked through your build thread again, are you still "2-1/2" lift up front and 1" lift on the back." ?

Not much progress lately. The last 3 weeks have been 70+ hour work weeks with Volvo work in between. First day off from everything Saturday. I put fluid in the brake system and bled it, quick and easy with the Wilwood valve. Yesterday, I spent some time on maintenance with my 92 C1500 street rod truck and 94 Firebird. Then I started going through some of the nut and bolt stuff on the front end of the MJ. Discovered an interference issue turning to the right with the drag link/ tie rod joint and sway bar link. Considering putting more bend in the drag link, outboard of the TRE to draw it forward for right turn clearance. Downside is having to do that every time I replace it in the future... Not interested in spending over $700 for a Currectlync setup to fix a minor issue with a D30.

Last 2 pics bringing back the memories on my project. Your floors are way better at least. Seems like you have all the skills and equipment to do the 97+ swap. No judgement from me if you go that route. I only went halfway and did HO on Renix. My HOA would not have stood for me cutting up a junk XJ in my driveway or back yard.

I admit I'd love to have one of those just to see how much of a difference it makes. It would fit my setup since I've HO swapped, but I'd have to go back to a log-style intake. What's your plan, since you're starting with an all-Renix setup? This cylinder head is machined to accept both distributor or coil pack ignition. To optimize airflow, this cylinder head is designed with a 1991-2006 4.0L intake port location and 1991-98 4.0L exhaust port size. As a result, this cylinder head must be used with a 1991-2006 intake manifold and a 1991-1998 exhaust manifold. Aftermarket exhaust headers can also be used in place of 1991-1998 exhaust manifolds and MUST be used in place of 1999-2006 exhaust manifolds. Most aftermarket exhaust headers are compatible, but please check with the exhaust header manufacture to verify. This head is NOT compatible with 1999-2006 OEM exhaust manifolds. This thread might help you consider options:

Looking good! No moss growing on this project...

Friday: Saturday:

Different world working on European cars... not the world I prefer lol

Please say more about this - I just set one up with new carrier bearings and outer axle shaft bearings (89 non-c-clip). Made me paranoid I might miss something...

Oh, duh. Yeah. This is it here’s the 2008 t5 as well:

Dropped the head off at my machinist in Raleigh on my lunch break. Won't be nearly as cheap as the last head for the turbo 2008 car. But he thinks he can have it ready by the end of the week. w00t!

Poor car... alternator belt failed and murdered the timing belt. I've done this entire job before on a 2008 V50 2.5 t5. Diagnosed it yesterday and realized I'd be doing what I'm about to do again... Oh man... A few hours later... We got this car for my oldest daughter in 2018. I did a bunch of additional work to it and it was a great college car for her. Soon after I spotted a 2008 V50 turbo on Craigslist and got it for $1100. Broken timing belt, bent valves, etc. That one only had 110,000 miles on it and was a beautiful ice blue. Final cost on that one, including purchase, tow to my house, upper end parts and machine work was $1910. I was going to flip it for about $6500 but my daughter really liked it and wanted it. My middle daughter is only 17 months behind her so the 2005 went to her and my oldest took the turbo. They're my step-daughters but I love them like I made them myself, so this seemed like a good arrangement to get them both in reliable cars. This car survived the Asheville floods from Helene, being parked on high ground at the Lookout Observatory. Sat there for 5 weeks undisturbed, miraculously, and fired right up after sitting. Before we gave it to my middle daughter in 2021, I went through the interior and made it as nice as the other one. The door panel skins on these Volvo P1 platform cars eventually peel into a sticky mess. I had a local interiors shop re-skin them (almost $700) and the darned thing has brand new tires and brakes, and only 220,000 miles. Everyone calls this car "Valerie." So I'm saving her... The MJ is a secondary concern for the moment. Big thanks to JT in Newport, NC for letting us use his shop space to work on her. Love to Kenli and AJ for the extra pairs of hands, and to Klara who's patiently waiting for this all to be done.

And it's in. Pinion angle needs to come back down 1.5* with the XJ shackles on it now, and right at another 1.5* when the MJ shackles go back on.

UPS showed up on Monday and I got wood... and Volvo parts.

Looks like the rear washer motor connector, now missing its plastic. Not used on MJ, the same portion of harness was used for XJs that had an additional washer motor for the rear. Fine just like it is- tuck it or zip tie it to something out of the way.

Just did this recently on my Dana 35. Pull the drums off. On the axle flanges there is a hole that allows you to get to the 4 nuts/ bolts that hold the retainer plates for the bearing and seal behind them. The bolts come through from the rear of the axle tubes and are indexed with a flat spot to clear the tubes. No need to remove the brake backing plates/ brakes but they'll now be loose, held in place mostly by the lines going to the wheel cylinders. The axle shafts slide right out, as there's no c-clips on the Dana 35 until 1990 model year. Dana 44 will be exactly the same if you have that axle. The non c-clip axles have the retainer plate, seal, bearing and safety collar pressed into place, so you'll need to get the kit for each side. If you don't have a pretty beefy press, you'll need to take your axle shafts to a machine shop to have it done.

In honor of Cruiser54's posts about running an HO on Renix, here's an example. Cruise servo has been positioned to use the HO throttle bracket setup. Air cleaner and fuel rail are aftermarket, obviously, neither Renix nor HO...

Pioneer CA1177 available through Autozone online for $62 looks like a decent deal with $4.99 shipping. It's $81 on Amazon... I checked CA1177, that's the one you want. There is a CA1176, but it's longer and for a floor shift automatic (Cherokee).

Setting it with it in low gear is fine too. That would be the cable's max extent of movement in one direction relative to the shifter detents. Go for it.

Should have posted earlier this week, but some more progress has been made. XJ shackles in (for now). Just short of another inch of drop in the rear. Rear ride height is 14.25" so that's 5.05" rear lift with leafs not yet broken in. Front is 13.875, so that's 6.125" lift. I can swap the MJ shackles back in when the rear springs settle. Installed the transfer case on Monday. Today I pulled apart and reassembled the rear suspension and made a shave to one small part of the SOA setup to get another 8* of upward pinion angle. Driveshaft measurement is 47.5" center to center of u-joints. Ordering a driveshaft from Tom Woods soon.

‘66 Buick LeSabre hood.

No knock at WOT is probably because it's essentially going into OL briefly, in power enrichment mode. PE Ignores O2 feedback and ramps in extra fuel. PE "attack" has a period defined in the ECM probably in milliseconds, where it ramps up from a little extra fuel to quite a bit more, probably over the course of about a second and a half. When you lift, it exits PE and returns to looking at closed loop qualifiers and goes back into CL as soon as they're met (probably over about 3-4 seconds). While it's doing that, PE "decay" is dialing back the fueling to normal, for part-throttle driving. 47* of advance is a LOT. Lean fuel/ air charge requires more time/ advance to burn. If it's running like that all over part throttle, you may just be a little lean across the board. If by chance you have an adjustable FPR, you can bump it up a pound, maybe two and see what the change to part throttle timing might be. Knock can be caused by a lean condition (think mini lean misfires), or pre-ignition/ detonation. Ghetdjc320 mentioned loose quench. That, or head gasket bore being too large can cause pockets of heat to build up at the outer edge of the combustion chamber in the tiny gap between the head and block. Ideally that area has the head gasket fire ring not recessed too far between head and block. Ideally, quench should be in the range of .038" - .045" but as long as the fire ring size is good, a lot of OEMs get away with quench as loose as .060" - .070" with no issues. In that range, you're mostly losing air velocity and chamber burn efficiency, and requiring more timing advance to complete the burn of the air/ fuel charge by 12-14" ATDC. Our engines are at the loose end by default, and have inefficient chambers. Half of quench calculation is the deck clearance, how far the distance the piston is in the hole below the deck. Ours is about .030" with a 6.125" rod and factory deck height of 9.450" - 9.456." So with a common .040" compressed thickness head gasket, quench is around .070." If we open up the bore, we might have to find a gasket with a larger fire ring diameter, and this is when we have to be careful. Fire ring diameter has to be larger than the bore, but not by much. Fire ring diameter .030" - .050" greater than cylinder bore is what we want to shoot for. I'm reading your specs as a 293.68CI / 4.8L, with a 4.2L crank and 4.0 rods, no overbore. I'm guessing you chose a factory style head gasket (probably ideal) and the block hasn't been decked. If the head gasket is something different with a larger fire ring, that can aggravate the conditions you're seeing. Fire ring too big, deep recess between head and block: / head | here gasket ====== block Fire ring sized right with acceptable quench: / head | gasket == block Fire ring sized right with loose quench due to thicker gasket: / head | here (thicker | here gasket) == block As for the knock sensor wiring stuff, have a look at this thread. Important details about the wiring and shielding of the knock sensor connector, particularly post #4.

Jeff, you doin' allright? Been a while...

Yes, on Renix, there's a max of 3. The one at the back driver's side corner of the head feeds the gauge. The second one is on the driver's side of the block above the oil pan and behind the knock sensor, and it is the one that gives the ECU an ECT signal. The possible third is on the lower driver's side of the radiator (large diameter) and it's a temperature switch to close the relay circuit to turn on the electric cooling fan (if equipped). 91-up is HO and moves functions of 2 & 3 above to a single sensor in the thermostat housing. early-mid HO era keeps the gauge cluster sending unit/ switch at the back of the head, for either temp gauge or engine hot lamp.