Salvagedcircuit

Wow, that's kinda nuts. I did not realize that. I guess I'll have to baby the rubber surround out, then carefully remove the glass, then make sure everything is super clean with no rust before the urethane and glass install. It's that time of night to search around the forum for some full restoration build threads Thanks!

Dang. Has anyone been successful in removing and reinstalling the solid rear glass with the same surround? I'd hate to be out of a vehicle because my rubber surround gave up

Does anyone know if the rubber surround for the solid rear glass still exists? I'm planning on painting my comanche soon, and I'd like to do a professional job. There is a good chance the rubber surround on the rear glass might not survive being removed and re-installed. Thanks!

We won't judge you if you need to bring a very long trailer.... for old times sake

So I'm not the only person who wire wheeled the old bolts, torqued them down to factory spec only to find that the nuts in the frame stripped out. Thanks.

On Copart in Rapid City, SD. 122,460 mi Front damage stated. Looks pretty decent, though copart has a history of dolling up cars. Has the lund top visor and front brush guard. I'd say this is definitely a good repair candidate if it can be insured etc...

Hell yeah! Bring out the CAD! Nice job I have a bench seat myself, but I always love to see folks going the extra mile to make their projects a reality!

Hey guys, I think @eaglescout526 has some goods for sale that could use a new home, wink wink

My dude, You have been a ROCK for this forum. You have let none of us down, you only brought us up! Infinite thanks for all the help you have provided to the many comanche owners just looking for a shred of information on their truck. I tried reaching out to the "Stellantis Historical Services" to find out information on my jeep and they employ only one person to maintain, search and respond to historical inquires. One. I called them too. You single-handedly outperformed said individual for free. She gets a working salary! She nicely provided me with an '88 brochure pdf, but I probably could have found that in a quick internet search. Hell, reach out to her and ask if there's an opening in that department. Who knows maybe there's remote options. danielle.szostak@stellantis.com Danielle Szostak-Viers Stellantis Historical Services 12501 Chrysler Freeway CIMS 410-11-21 Detroit, MI 48288 Best of wishes man!

Well done!

I'm running new moog XJ shackles on my comanche with pho-metric ton leaf springs and my measured ride height is stock

Does anyone know if Downey Products is still kicking? Their website seems non existent.

I'm really digging this setup. I've been throwing around the idea of moving over to a dual fan setup, but I'm not sure how large of an alternator I would need for (2) 10 blade stock fans. I currently have the 105a Delco CS130 family alternator for renix. I'm eyeing a 145a Delco AD244 alternator as a replacement in hopes this would be adequate to run the dual fans. The AD244 is nice because it has built in regulation in the back of the motor and is a similar size to the CS130. The 160a DR44 might also work with a tiny PWM controller. Nickintime did a video on the AD244 conversion, albeit with a location swapped AC compressor and alternator. I'll be leaving the alternator in the stock location. I may need a new belt, but I don't mind. Mine is likely old enough to drink by now I plan on keeping the comanche stock with AC. Maybe automatic windows and locks in the future. No winch, air compressor, plow etc. Going to be used as a daily driver. @GjeepWhat alternator did you end up using for this dual fan setup? Edit: I combed through your excellent son of stink thread and it looks like you upgraded your alternator several times, starting with a rewound jeep/dodge 136a Alternator to a custom 200a+ Nations alternator. Thanks for the excellent guide!

link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175851580727

Someone at keyparts, just buy this. Seriously, just buy it.

Very cool! I had some pretty fond memories of the cardboard tube Halloween haunted tunnel from my local primary school. Thinking back, it was such an excellent expenditure of time and money by the parents and teachers. Free fridge boxes. String, rubber balls, random plastic figurines etc...

It sure is earning it's keep!

That's a pretty smart way to do it! I should do that lol.

Looking mighty good!

Nice work! Something I have found that works great when cleaning shower glass doors: a single edge razor blade and a scraper. My folks were gung ho about renovating the bathroom shower with glass doors and did not know what to do with soap scum. They purchased Kaboom, Tilex, all the most unnecessary and nauseating chemicals you can think of. A good 'ol scraper does the business and does not scratch the glass. Its the cheapest most effective way to clean glass doors and you don't have to lose brain cells to do so!

I guess I must have missed that spec. I will update this on how well they work after a few months.

You can see from the above images, that the bottom most extrusion of the rubber bushing is longer than the original bushings, but the extra length does not cause any conflict. The steering box clears with plenty of room. The bushing also captures the entire lower radiator peg, not just part of it like the original bushing, which is nice. I measured the ID of the old bushing vs the new bushing. The new bushing has an ID about 12thou larger than the OEM bushings, but it is incredibly insignificant. There is little to no wobble when the radiator is mounted. Considering my radiator was installed without upper isolators, (thanks PO ) this will be a huge step up.

They fit like a glove

Update: I ordered both sets of bushings. The dorman ones are not a good fit at all. You'd have to drill out your bottom radiator mounts for them to fit. They are also rubber formed around a metal core. You can't modify these easily without ruining them. Good news: Mcmaster has your back! Compressible-Stem Push-In Bumpers: Mcmaster 9305K33 The above bushing is perfect. It's the right OD, the right ID and the shoulder height is slightly higher than my old very sad OEM bushings. I will post up some photos when I sift through my camera sd card. These are good quality and correct fitting bushings. No mods needed to be done. Well worth the money. I will update this post in a few months with how well they are handling the weight of the radiator.

You have a very valid point here. Neither the BMW or Nissan fan is designed for Counter Clock Wise operation. Neither is going to work. The hunt continues.