Salvagedcircuit

I guess I must have missed that spec. I will update this on how well they work after a few months.

You can see from the above images, that the bottom most extrusion of the rubber bushing is longer than the original bushings, but the extra length does not cause any conflict. The steering box clears with plenty of room. The bushing also captures the entire lower radiator peg, not just part of it like the original bushing, which is nice. I measured the ID of the old bushing vs the new bushing. The new bushing has an ID about 12thou larger than the OEM bushings, but it is incredibly insignificant. There is little to no wobble when the radiator is mounted. Considering my radiator was installed without upper isolators, (thanks PO ) this will be a huge step up.

They fit like a glove

Update: I ordered both sets of bushings. The dorman ones are not a good fit at all. You'd have to drill out your bottom radiator mounts for them to fit. They are also rubber formed around a metal core. You can't modify these easily without ruining them. Good news: Mcmaster has your back! Compressible-Stem Push-In Bumpers: Mcmaster 9305K33 The above bushing is perfect. It's the right OD, the right ID and the shoulder height is slightly higher than my old very sad OEM bushings. I will post up some photos when I sift through my camera sd card. These are good quality and correct fitting bushings. No mods needed to be done. Well worth the money. I will update this post in a few months with how well they are handling the weight of the radiator.

You have a very valid point here. Neither the BMW or Nissan fan is designed for Counter Clock Wise operation. Neither is going to work. The hunt continues.

Does anyone have the part number for the Thermal Fan Switch for the electric fan? Is it Standard Motor Products TS258? This is the switch found on the lower drivers side of the radiator. There is a bung hole (about an inch in diameter) with a thermal switch in it. It has a two wire connector. Thanks.

I know what I'm testing this afternoon. Thanks a ton @87MJTIM!

Thanks for the info. Does anyone know if the temperature switch has the same connector as the fan? Maybe my connectors are swapped around. Or my temperature switch needs a replacement. Thanks!

Curious, on renix years, when does the electric fan come on with the AC? I was testing my AC this weekend, and while my compressor clutch kicked on once (squealed loudly), the fan never came on. I tested the fan separately and it runs fine with a 12v 10a psu.

Goals right there! I'm hoping to do the same thing to mine, but I'm torn between the chrome or black front trim. Also going to leave the front stock height with 235/75r15's Lookin' mighty fine if I say so

That's a lot of fine handy work. Looking good

Oh the wonders fb marketplace digs up!

I have an '88 4.0L and the previous owner butchered the AC clutch wires. Mine is cut where there is a purple line in the photo. I am prepared to wire them up, but I have no idea where the two leads go to. One wire is a cut orange wire and I found the mating end, but the other wire has no mate. There does not seem to be any location for that wire to be attached to. I checked out the 88 electrical diagram and it seems that the re is supposed to be a protection diode between these two wires. Can someone send me a photo of how those two wires are supposed to look? Is there a diode or block between them? Thanks!

Awesome! Thanks for confirming @The86manche! Now I can cut some pipe to the right dimension and complete the missing portion of the rollbar!

Dang. That's one cool truck.

The gavel went down. $35,525 Dang.

I didn't think any of the comanche's came with a bed light. Was this ever an option?

If you take the .dxf files I uploaded to any waterjet shop, they can make you the part to whatever thickness your want. Big Blue Saw, which is now a part of Xometry, will take nearly any file type.

Awesome!

I grabbed my old EGR valve, cleaned up the mating face and gasket and took some measurements. This is a clone of my EGR gasket. This is provided in case EGR gaskets are no longer produced for our vehicles. There are (2) revisions of the files. EGR-gasket-R1, and EGR-gasket-R2. Choose whichever to your liking. I am not a draftsman by trade, so bear with me if the mechanical drawing is overly detailed. All files are released under Creative Commons CC0. Anyone can modify or remix for any reason whatsoever. EGR-Gasket-R1 EGR-Gasket-R2 Mechanical Drawing PDF EGR-Gasket-R1.DWG EGR-Gasket-R1.DXF EGR-Gasket-R1.STEP EGR-Gasket-R2.DWG EGR-Gasket-R2.DXF EGR-Gasket-R2.STEP EGR-Gasket-R1.PDF

Is there anyway someone can confirm this dimension on a long bed sport bar? This is an old photo @HOrnbrod posted. Is there anyway someone can check if 36in is the correct dimension for the length of the wheel well support tube, measured from the weldment on the main loop to the flange mount on the wheel well bracket? I picked up a hacked up longbed sport bar here: https://comancheclub.com/topic/72136-is-this-an-mj-roll-bar/ I am looking to weld it up back to original condition. The last photo shows the current condition of the bar. Thanks!

I would also suggest looking through the Auveco part catalog pdf. They make an incredible number of OEM fasteners, clips and various odds and ends.

Do not be surprised if companies no longer sell block off plates. The EPA has been going after anyone making emissions defeat devices. A block of aluminum is incredibly simple to make, and I find it improbable the EPA will bother, but it's possible that any company making such a plate will put their business in jeopardy. Making a plate yourself or using a pipe plug is indeed the best way. I think someone should just post up a mechanical drawing of the dimensions and be done with it. The individual can either trace it with a jigsaw or waterjet some out of aluminum. Or just use a pipe tap. What is truly sad here is that the EPA has the power to pressure a company to comply with emissions. Why are they not pressuring the top tier auto manufacturers to release the specifications of OEM emissions equipment so 3rd party auto suppliers can clone the part? Why is the onus on the end user?

Threading and tapping the intake, then adding a pipe plug works great. It does not look stock, but it works great.

Interesting. That looks an awful lot like the insert used in the square speaker hole on the doors. Auveco 11691. They are an original manufacturer of the nylon screw nut.