Salvagedcircuit

Woah, I had no idea solid color stripes were a factory option. Dang. Looks good! I think someone else who joined recently has that same color combo.

Thanks Pete! Now the real question: To duplicate comanche coins or not?

I just revived a '90s Millport CNC vertical mill from a non-functioning brick to a floppy-wielding chip thrower. Even though it's a Bridgeport clone machine, it is surprisingly stout and has all Anilam controls with Baldor servos. I documented the entire troubleshooting process and PCB level repairs needed to make CNC throw chips again: https://salvagedcircuitry.com/90s-cnc-revival.html I thought you guys might get a kick out of this repair as I'm sure many of you folks like to build your own gadgets and weld up your own contraptions. Having a CNC in your own shop is a personal dream for many, and even though this is no Haas or DMG Mori, it's still capable! Here's a video of it working: Let me know what you think!

Dang, that's one hell of a steal for $25!

Heck yeah! Greets from New York

I selected PLA because it's interior and it should be enough to withstand direct sun. I wanted to get ABS but microcenter did not have any in a tan / honey color. It's nice to be able to take a broken interior piece into microcenter and just select the closest color shade and go with it. No need to buy 10 variants off amazon and return 9. Microcenter has a wall of filiment in many colors and shades. It's impressive. I went with this light brown from microcenter. It matches the tan / honey interior well. Yes, you can 3d print this in any color material. one spool cost me $8.32 in store. This is even cheaper than finding matching spray paint and painting an old part. The wall thickness is 2mm, just like the original, and the resulting part is very rigid. This may be better to print in PETG for flexibility. I did not realize how flexible the original parts are. This one is completely rigid. I'm going to see how it lasts and if it prematurely fails, I'll try PETG. Here's two .STL files. One has a more rectangular profile like the original '88 sheaths. The other one is more rounded like the later chrysler ones. Anyone can use it as they see fit. seat-belt-sheath-rounded.STL seat-belt-sheath-sq.STL

I'd say it's a keeper Thanks @fiatslug87 for the length dimension!

Thanks! At least I have the '88 version down now. Off to the printer.

WOAH. It exists! I was about to say, if you had that length dimension, I would be forever grateful. Thanks for the photo!

My gosh, why did AMC change so many little things. Maybe they were not in full compliance with the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards? Who knows. Nuts!

I have never seen these before wow. Is that an 86/87 only design?

This is for the bottom seat belt anchor point for the bench seat belt. The sleeves are used so the seatbelt does not get jammed between the door and the seat, and between the cab wall and the seat.

My redesign so far. Opinions? Cloned

I'm CADing up a new seatbelt sleeve for my seatbelts and 3d printing one for each side of my bench seat. These are the sleeves that go on the lower bolt of the B-pillar near the floor on the driver and passenger side. I cannot find these seat belt sleeves anywhere in good shape. The comanche bench seat sleeves seem to be longer and more square than the cherokee xj ones. Does anyone have good photos of a mostly intact MJ Bench seatbelt sleeve? All the ones I can find online are deteriorated. First image shows MJ one. Last one shows XJ version. Thanks!

Digging up this guy. Let me know if anyone has something to add! Will gladly update it

Woah, I replaced (2) of my AW4 fittings about 6 months ago. I used the dorman 800-714 / 83503728 https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28973-800-714.aspx https://www.carparts.com/transmission-oil-line/dorman/rb800714 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-transmission-line-connector-3-8in.-od-tube-x-14mm-1.5-800-714/20230072-P Try calling dorman or a nearby federated auto parts. They may be able to source them. Dang, I just got mine from amazon for like $20ea I think. Wow. I should have purchased more :/

Ahh :/ Good luck with it. I'm still diagnosing my AC. It's been one hot summer so far!

I thought this too, until I found out each lines rotates about the fitting on top of the compressor. you can easily fill up the low pressure size by just rotating the line.

WOW. Talk about saved the day! DANGG. What a find. I looked through the aptiv manuals and could not find it. Excellent, added to the mouser cart

The relay block is a delphi / aptiv 12033871 Available at newark and mouser It doesn't look like the part comes with the plastic mounting clip on the back, which is what I'm interested in. Bummer. The clip looks like a cross between these three, but not quite any of them: auveco 17990 auveco 21692 auveco 25542

Huh. Now I'm wondering what plastic the lower dash panel is made from. I was considering using ABS filament to plastic weld the crack in my lower dash.

That dash I have to take my tan lower dash out and plastic weld it before it snaps in half. Previous owner mounted a CB radio to it and left 4 holes and a crack. Sadness. I think I'm going to grab some tan colored ABS from microcenter and see if I can match it and just plastic weld it through the back.

This is the way Knowing that the certified molex crimping tools go upwards of $300 for one variant of a connector, I don't bother crimping my own. I just get a pigtail, solder and adhesive heatshrink. I try to get the pigtails from digikey, mouser or some stp part number.

Awesome job, looks like a good time was had by all

Hahaha, this looks like fun!