jimmy21669

True, if installed wrong, it will never unlock. But it is kinda hard to install a Lockrite wrong....

I had a ticking that was related to the clutch before. Bad throwout bearing. But when the clutch was depressed it would go away. When you check out the truck...see if it goes away when you press the clutch (or changes at all) Usually it is a small crack in the exhaust manifold. To see if THAT is the case, get the truck hot and see if the sound lessens as the exhaust expands (closes the crack).

That is how a lockrite operates. The Powertrax will slip some, but a Lockrite will click and chirp your tires around corners. It is locked pretty much all the time when power is applied to the axle.

True. I used a YJ AX5 in mine....I used YJ to clock the t-case up some. I had to use the YJ slip yoke, but not biggie since I was rebuilding the rear drive shaft anyways. Also used the YJ shifters for the t-case and tranny. I had to heat them to glowing red and then bend them to my comfort. If you do not, they will be hitting your dash and you won't be able to shift them. I like the YJ t-case shift linkage better (sturdy and won't bind), and I like the tranny shifter because it is taller. Personal choice.

I was supposed to buy my MJ for $700. The belt kept breaking and he did not know why. Well, he had replaced the alternator and not put the stock pulley on it, so it was set back about a half inch from the rest of the pulleys. Did I feel guilty when I offered him $500 for it even though I could easily see what was wrong? No, all is fair in love and sales.

If you can see behind the bell housing at all....the BA10 splits down the middle: Whereas the AX15 is bolted together in two segments: Not sure of the bell housing differences, but you CAN see the bolt patterns for the bell housing above, and that may help you with the ID.

Two choices for manual: BA/10 or the AX15.... Ummm....I'm gonna go with the AX15 If you have an automatic, AW4.

I only used the internal balancing on my LTBs. When dismounted, you could not tell they had ever been there. One thing to watch for. You HAVE to make sure the inside of the tire remains dry. Otherwize you will get clumping. Also, with the weight of the air-softs, it took 2000 per tire...I am thinking that is enough disbursement. A more expensive but GREAT option is this: http://www.centramatic.com/Search.aspx?c=1105&member= The advantage here is you can use them with ALL your tires. Street tires...they work, go to put your offroad tires on, they still work.

No matter the situation, the BB's will attempt to balance the tires. Rim packed with mud or snow? Weights out of whack due to tire wear? The BB's will still go to where needed to re-balance dynamically.

Truth. Problem with that statement is it could apply to about anything. Replace the word jeep with anything man made and its still true. buzzkill...

I used air soft BB's in my 34" LTB;s on my XJ. WORKED GREAT!! The plastic air soft BB's were quiet enough, and worked great on the highway balancing a bias ply tire. I have no negative side to doing this. See this chart. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm The air soft BB's tell you on the box/bottle, how much they weight each. Do the math for the 6oz each tire you will need.

Jeeps never die. Their owners just give up on them.

Aftermarket or stock?

Rubber last longer but binds...poly will not bind, but does not last. It depends on the application.

Did you wiggle the switch at all while they were on? That could be going too...

I had to ring everything out. I used a wire and some voltage with the power off to ring out every wire. They changed from year to year it seems.

I gave my 10 spoke away and regret it everyday...I used aircraft stripper, then a very soft wire wheel. They cleaned up nice. Then I painted them black in the recesses, and re-cleared them. They looked sweet, but I didn't think I would use them.

I refuse to update my forum for this reason. I use Phpbb3 and i works, so I leave it alone...lol

Why not look at the Patriot? They are also getting an aftermarket going, and have some pretty cool features....

:doh: :no: :thwak:

Yes. An exhaust, OEM, is tuned for the vehicle. I could get very scientific about pulse rates, etc, but you are causing resistance in your exhaust system which will rob you of horsepower, thereby causing you to use more gas. Hope that helps.

With respect for your decision, I do not know many other 80's vehicles that were MORE reliable than a Jeep...when fixed up and maintained properly. We wish you well in your future endeavors!

re-listed: http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/2090449836.html

Looks like a J2000/Gladiator with an M715A bed.....NICE!! $1200 http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/2089275691.html

It depends on what you are into.... Do you like racing or wheeling more? I would make the trade. IROC's are a dime a dozen and another could be had....CJ-8's are becoming hard to find and this thing is BUILT. Then again, my motto is more "as slow as possible, as fast as necessary"! I love to wheel and left speed behind a long time ago.