KYMJ

Loved it for connecting with school mates from Texas and another era, hated it for the ramblings of the locals. Gave it up.

Mine broke on both my trucks, I'd be looking for a spare set, even if it's not the problem now.

I've had my interior apart for a year now chasing leaks. I put it back together after painting the truck because I was tired of looking at it. Went to get the windshield re-sealed prior to painting, the window guy suggested a new windshield instead. The budget is blown now and I don't think it's leaking anyway. Sealed the ant. grommet good, no problems under the wiper cover, it was removed for paint and inspected well. Last fall it appeared to be leaking between the firewall and heater box, which suggested windshield. It rained yesterday and the water was definately coming from the heater box. Right in the vicinity of the blower motor. I will remove the overflow bottle and bracket and re-seal the blower motor-first and look for seams/possible problems with heater box. This has been a process of elimination, if I get lucky re-sealing the blower will do it. I've had Grand Cherokees with the cowl seal leak so I'm hoping it's not that. My dash is cracking, so a new dash may be in the works anyway. One step at a time. I'm ready to modernize to a newer vehicle and religate the Comanche to workhorse duty only, but we had to buy a new vehicle for wife to allow us to pass the 09 Sentra over to the daughter who got her liscence last week. So, I'll still be DD'ing this thing awhile longer.

I've got that leak as well. You won't see anything under the wiper motor cover, I had it off last week. I'm going to remove the blower motor and re-seal it with silicone when I get a chance. I'm pretty confident that will do it. I'm hoping that is the last leak after replacing door seals, vent windows, etc.

I reckon. I haven't seen an MJ or decent XJ at a p&p here in quite a while.

Pull A Parts?

Somebody save that truck!

Great lead on a gun also:http://www.ebay.com/itm/200817668787?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 This gun worked BEAUTIFULLY, stay away from Harbor Frieght, my HB gun went in the garbage. Lets try again:http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-1-4-HVLP-SPRAY-GUN-Auto-Paint-Base-Clear-Primer-/200817668787?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D2599334958979992233%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D200817668787%26 Can't post a link, any way it's a gun from TCP Global, 39.95.

At least 3 and more where the coverage didn't suit me. It calls for 2 and a 3rd dusting coat. Yeah, I had paint left over and even did the door jams. I AM NOT a body and paint man, but thats my story and I'm sticking to it. :) edit I found my reciepts-65.98 paint, 30.99 1/2 pt activater, 35 for reducer. It mixes 8-1-2. I had to buy a gallon of Fast reducer, they said they don't sell it in a quart, the quart of medium I bought last week was 9 something and would have been enough I believe. The weather turned on me, so I exchanged it for the Fast, good for 50 to 65 degrees.

I painted mine this weekend. I don't like bodywork and didn't get all the dings out but it's one color now, minus the rust spots that were appearing under the factory finish. I used Dupont Nason single stage urethane from Orielly's auto parts. Didn't take but 2 quarts. I didn't paint the bed because I plan on Monstalining it. You'll have a better choice of colors including the the factory color, which I liked on my truck. It cost me about $150. That was the paint, reducer, activator, I covered the truck in epoxy primer which was about $80 for a gallon. I thought about Tractor Supply paint or something cheap, but decided I liked the factory color. Just thought I'd throw out another option.

Pics don't reveal much,desirable green, $700, heck yeah. Rust on floorboards, behind flares on bed, anything beyond the body is repairable fairly easy thanks to your friendly CC and your local pull a part. Negotiate down to 4 or 5 or 3.

Bought a bare bones Ranger without a bumper. An observation while sanding mine for paint after removing the bumper-there is a place to mount a liscence plate behind the bumper, so I suppose it's possible to have bought one without a bumper.

There are clips holding them on and some kind of glue. I pryed them off with a small screwdriver. I've removed mine because I'm painting my truck. The glue dries hard, I had to remove it today. My last truck had one removed by a tree limb and I just popped it on with the clips. I don't recall the glue residue on my other truck. Might have been used later, since I discovered prior body work on the roof.

Hope you got enough. Would have been a little short for the patch job I just did to mine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Com ... 4169e54d61 :drool:

I'd rather have your truck than a Ferrari.

Well, I'm tried of pouring over the internet and am more confused as ever. So, I'm turning to my friendly CC community for advice. I'm going to paint my truck and epoxy primer seems like a great idea given the millions of small rust spots that I have to take to bare metal. I don't know what paint I'm going with and I really don't want to primer again over the epoxy and I'm worried about compatibility. Any advise?

I still say the sockets are bad, even tho you say they look good. I believe if you use an ohmeter, you'll find the power feeding back through the grounds. I don't recall exactly the procedures, because I did this years ago. My next truck I just replaced the sockets confident that they were causing the problem. The sockets are cheap and will take minimal time.

I'd buy it for a donor for 250.

You opened a can of worms there- look at the welding forums and read the answers about the cheapies. Having said that, I don't care what people think, so, I bought a cheapie auto darkening helmet. Probably wouldn't if I needed it as much as you. It works fine, I really like the auto dark feature, but will upgrade eventually. Probably in the $100range, which would include the Hobarts at the local Rural King or something like it. I'll be watching the sales.

Thanks for the link. I blew my measly budget on the welder, no gas yet, so I'm trying flux core first. I don't even have the basics down yet, I keep winding up with 6 inches of wire sticking out. :hmm: Yeah, I'm pitiful. Quite frankly, thought it would be a breeze and I thought I could do just about anything.

I made the trip to Tractor Supply as well. Mine came with the wire feeder door hinges(plastic) broken. Hobart is sending me new ones. The machine works good, too bad my skills are not up to par. I've never welded, I'll be spending time and money learning.

Long shot, I know, but been looking local for years on CL with no luck. I'm getting ready to paint my truck and want to get rid of the beat up alum topper I have. I'd like a MJ(SWB) specific or otherwise exceptable fitting fiberglass topper, flat roof(so I can install my kayak rack), somewhat close to West Kentucky.

I've even done it(see 4x4) :dunno: , and I know better, and yes I promptly changed it.

where in Illinois?