KYMJ

Had one in the D35 of my Wrangler and it worked great. The only thing negative was that I didn't have one in the front axle also. Seriously, the only thing negative I cas think of is the cable, but on the other hand, it won't develop an air leak like a air actuated locker. I would buy another.

I had to remove the steering linkage at the pitman arm.

Yep, thats the topper I want, (wanted).

Check this out: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18297

Wish I would have found these before I changed mine for the ones in the thread below. One question: I had to trim a little to fit the ones I used. Will these cover the bigger hole? :dunno: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3490

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1052616

Most of my GC wheelin' friends converted to 8.8's for this reason.

Just had to make a Lowes run, and everything is working again. Went off for a minute or two, so I think your idea will fix it. Maybe a loose connection also.

Since the truck is running, I plan to remove and inspect it when I slow down and it gets a little warmer. I will do that also. Thanks!

Started my truck this morning and noticed that the tach and volt meter have both quit working. All other guages are working properly. Alternator is charging correctly. The only common denominator I can find is possibly the circuit board on the cluster. I'm so tied up, stripping wall paper in the kitchen/rebuilding front end on my F150. Search doesn't turn up much. Anybody else run into this? TIA. :dunno:

Just what you need: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=27677

Congrats, very nice. Where abouts are you?

I've done this many times and never had a problem. I always use a new o-ring. Use PLENTY of Vasoline to hold it in place. Make sure the groove where the o-ring rests is good and clean.Tap your lock ring a little at a time and evenly on each tine until it is fully seated. Take your time. I suggest a brass punch.

:popcorn: Such threads are normally accompanied with pics. :D edit Sorry we must have posted at the same time! Nice.

Just put one on mine, so here goes: Remove header panel, there's torx screws behind it, screws under the hood, 2 screws underneath behind the tire, 1 screw you can see when you open the door, there is a bracket that connects to of the screws in the flare. Think thats it.

I dream of the day I move back in the country and become another wildman or jimoshel(?), but alas I'm of no help right now. :(

Remove it, go to a "real" auto parts store. NAPA would be a good choice, somewhere with somebody that can do things the old fashion way and look up parts in a catalog. All part #'s show measurements and specifications in the back of the appropriate catalog. Shouldn't be a problem finding a match after getting measurments of your tre with a caliper. I've done that back in my NAPA days. Good luck!

I do have to "pull" mine out a little as I crank to clear the grills. Don't know why mine has enough "slop" to not be a big problem.

Bought mine from ebay and it wasn't much. The carpet was ok, but the backing was not "right". I used some of the backing from my old carpet to try and fill in places where it looked wrinkled because of poor fit. Good enough for an old truck?, I suppose. But, I would wait for more responses.

I didn't get too ambitious with mine, I just just put a push button switch on the dash for mine. So, I'll be watching the answers.

pm your address, I'll send you the other half of mine.

Like to find me one of those 95 or 96's.

I bought one before I heard the complaints. Didn't waste my time installing it. It's a joke. I bought one of these and cut it in half(aprox.) and set in the well of the console. Won't work with the handbrake obviously. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... RP2013____ I heard it was small, but after getting it, the real problem is...it's only an inch and a half deep. Won't work in the real world. If you still buy one, you will be pissed for spending the money, I was.

Haven't seen these in over a year. However, now I've decided I can live without them.

Best of luck! :thumbsup: