jeep10

Yes.. and I remember in the old days when I called this sh*# fun and layed under cars and trucks night and day having fun !! :shake:

Mine takes an extreme amount of push on the buttons to reset, not saying thats your problem ! I had replaced the bulb in mine and it worked but I could not get it to reset.. I finally pushed like hell on the button and they made contact ! :dunno: Just saying !

There is a vacuum switch mounted on the fender under the coolant bottle or on the passenger fender close to the firewall. It is a vacuum operated ground switch for the 4x4 dash light.... # 1 It could be stuck in the ground position or # 2 check the vacuum source going to it and see if someone stuck a constant vacuum hose on it. The hose that should be on it comes from the vac switch on the transfercase to the cad and up to the ground switch. And should only pull vacuum at the switch when engauged in 4x4. My buddys MJ , someone had stuck the heater control line on it that kept vacuum on it and it would never go out. On mine it was just a bad switch.

Here you go http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... t&catid=95

My 88 came with a full gauge cluster minus tach.. from what I have seen they are a bit uncommon. :dunno:

I worked for a propane company and our trucks were set up for it (propane carb) and we had lots of problems with them.. winter they were a pain in the @$$ to start and fuel efficient they are not. Propane is not cheap unless you work for a gas company. The benifit is that a propane operated engine runs very clean. We ran 10 K on a oil change and it was hardly discolored at 10k. When they wanted to be cantankerous most shops did not want to work on them .

Very well done MJ :thumbsup: :thumbsup: AHHHHHHHHH, i love that rig. Saw it for sale a while back. Are you the one who built it? Thats one sick MJ dude!

The stubborn part was what made me do it the way I did it. Plus I wanted to reinsulate my doors .

Mine was the Vacuum ground switch for the indicator light.. it is located under the coolant tank on the fender... when you put it in 4x4 it sucks vacuum at the switch and makes a ground and lights up. If it has stuck it would stay on or if not working it will not make the ground. On my buddies mj someone had hooked the heater control vacuum line to it and it stayed on all the time because of constant vacuum.

Remove door panel.... take lower nut off of wing window frame and remove two phillips screws from upper window frame... pull wing window and frame out ... lower window and you will be able to access rubber clips. Took me about a hour and a half and I am slow.

now I know the difference between an asking price and a selling price ! It still does not beat the price of the one I seen on ebay for 15 K

Go to ebay and do a member search for SMSheadliners and he will come up... He has not renewed the listing for the comanche but if you contact him through ebay and ask for personal contact info I am sure he still makes them . His name is Steve and he is in Monroe GA.

However I am unsure why it cannot be resurfaced, It looked like my original one had a slight taper to it, and I thought that might be the reason, but the after market replacement is completely flat. It is getting harder to find a place that will resurface here anyway.. I plan of making a clean sweep of it all when I do it and then hopefully I will not have to revisit again in a day or two.

If you find out let me know... I have the same issue, no chatter and takes off smooth until about twenty mins of running then I get a take off chatter. I have NO oil leaks ! And all mounts are new. Makes you hate stop and go traffic.... But then again I hate stop and go traffic anyway under normal conditions.

Acrylic enamel single stage might be the most economic and simple for a home brew job, But base coat clear looks the best and gives you time to correct sins in between the base and the clear application . Good quality base clear is not like the crap they use at the factory and will hold up better. And gives you a deep shine. Just my 2 cents worth