jeep10

Yes.. and I remember in the old days when I called this sh*# fun and layed under cars and trucks night and day having fun !! :shake:

Mine takes an extreme amount of push on the buttons to reset, not saying thats your problem ! I had replaced the bulb in mine and it worked but I could not get it to reset.. I finally pushed like hell on the button and they made contact ! :dunno: Just saying !

There is a vacuum switch mounted on the fender under the coolant bottle or on the passenger fender close to the firewall. It is a vacuum operated ground switch for the 4x4 dash light.... # 1 It could be stuck in the ground position or # 2 check the vacuum source going to it and see if someone stuck a constant vacuum hose on it. The hose that should be on it comes from the vac switch on the transfercase to the cad and up to the ground switch. And should only pull vacuum at the switch when engauged in 4x4. My buddys MJ , someone had stuck the heater control line on it that kept vacuum on it and it would never go out. On mine it was just a bad switch.

Here you go http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... t&catid=95

My 88 came with a full gauge cluster minus tach.. from what I have seen they are a bit uncommon. :dunno:

I worked for a propane company and our trucks were set up for it (propane carb) and we had lots of problems with them.. winter they were a pain in the @$$ to start and fuel efficient they are not. Propane is not cheap unless you work for a gas company. The benifit is that a propane operated engine runs very clean. We ran 10 K on a oil change and it was hardly discolored at 10k. When they wanted to be cantankerous most shops did not want to work on them .

Very well done MJ :thumbsup: :thumbsup: AHHHHHHHHH, i love that rig. Saw it for sale a while back. Are you the one who built it? Thats one sick MJ dude!

The stubborn part was what made me do it the way I did it. Plus I wanted to reinsulate my doors .

Mine was the Vacuum ground switch for the indicator light.. it is located under the coolant tank on the fender... when you put it in 4x4 it sucks vacuum at the switch and makes a ground and lights up. If it has stuck it would stay on or if not working it will not make the ground. On my buddies mj someone had hooked the heater control vacuum line to it and it stayed on all the time because of constant vacuum.

Remove door panel.... take lower nut off of wing window frame and remove two phillips screws from upper window frame... pull wing window and frame out ... lower window and you will be able to access rubber clips. Took me about a hour and a half and I am slow.

now I know the difference between an asking price and a selling price ! It still does not beat the price of the one I seen on ebay for 15 K

Go to ebay and do a member search for SMSheadliners and he will come up... He has not renewed the listing for the comanche but if you contact him through ebay and ask for personal contact info I am sure he still makes them . His name is Steve and he is in Monroe GA.

However I am unsure why it cannot be resurfaced, It looked like my original one had a slight taper to it, and I thought that might be the reason, but the after market replacement is completely flat. It is getting harder to find a place that will resurface here anyway.. I plan of making a clean sweep of it all when I do it and then hopefully I will not have to revisit again in a day or two.

If you find out let me know... I have the same issue, no chatter and takes off smooth until about twenty mins of running then I get a take off chatter. I have NO oil leaks ! And all mounts are new. Makes you hate stop and go traffic.... But then again I hate stop and go traffic anyway under normal conditions.

Acrylic enamel single stage might be the most economic and simple for a home brew job, But base coat clear looks the best and gives you time to correct sins in between the base and the clear application . Good quality base clear is not like the crap they use at the factory and will hold up better. And gives you a deep shine. Just my 2 cents worth

Charcoal canister can cause the gasoline smell, Take it off and shake it, if you hear things moving around change it.... it is available through Team Cherokee I think for around fifty bucks give or take.

This is a SWB

1988 4.0 5spd orig BA/10 197,000 miles and going strong... original interior, cluster upgrade, original paint,. Rustys 4 1/2 lift 33/10.50/15 BFG KM2 Cold air intake, TB spacer, Flow master 40 series

1988 Sport Truck SWB 4X4 4.0 5 spd Located in Hernando Florida and is a daily driver Came with premium bucket seats/full console/full instruments/carpet/cruise control/tilt wheel/ am fm /cass Owner George Moyer

Welcome and nice looking MJ Turn over problem could be faulty safety switch, ignition switch on lower colume needs adjustment or possible ignititon switch failing at times. Whistle / does it have a aftermarket cold air intake by any chance ? Mine does and it sounds like a turbo whistle at times. And a stickey caliper normally will cause pull or drift going down the road to the side that is sticking.

:agree: This is what I did also on my 88

I don't want to hijack but it seems like it went dead anyway ! My cruise cable is clearly not connected, the one that comes from the servo to the throttle, it is on the bracket where it should be by the trottle body.. and my problem is I can not tell where it connects at ? I look in the area where I think it should go , but I don't see it. It is not broke, the connecting knurl is on the end of the cable. 1988 6 cyl 5 spd Anyone know ? Thanks in advance

Cheer up ... just think of all the wear you WON'T be putting on 5th gear. Eagle is right. Think of it as a 4 speed with an extra gear for future expansion. Similar to a spare memory slot on your computer. :yes: Think of it as clutch chatter and wear while you are riding it while trying to pull off ! Take it from a guy that has 3.07 gears and 33 tires,and a guy that wants 4.10's so bad he can taste the gear oil. And unless you cruise at 70 mph you will never need 5th gear.

A buddy of mine has a sweet setup in his Cherokee. He mounted an external Bosch fuel pump under his rear seat. Now he can change the pump in 5 minutes. I will ask him for the part number. He said he could do the same on my MJ, but we'd have to find a good location for it. Last year, I changed the fuel pump with out dropping the tank. Yeah, it was a PITA. And I didn't get the lockring back on right, so I leaked a lot of gas when I went to fill up. Had to drop the tank to do it right. Ya ever get that part number ? it be a handy piece of info and a handy setup.... yeah and did he use oem fuel pressure regulator or aftermarket ?

happened same with me too. :doh: I fill mine from under the hood ! I took a 5 ft piece of 1/2 cpvc and put a 90 degree elbow on the transmission end with a 1 1/2 stub out of the 90 elbow. And I added a pc of hose and small funnel up top. I use a drain pan under the bottom to catch any over flow. The cpvc will go in by firewall and will flex enough to go into the trans. Save it for the next time and save on greasy arm pits. Plug size is 5/16 make a wrench from keystock from the hardware or buy a 5/16 external plug socket, Got mine for $8.00 from snap on.