howeitsdone

Looks good! How long did the bumpers take to come in? They had some bad lead times earlier this year. Moving back to GA next week and want to put those or the JCR DIY on order asap.

Went to fire up the truck this morning to head to NAPA to pick up my new oil pressure sender and smelled fuel. Sure enough the supply line fitting was leaking at the rail. So after troubleshooting to see if it was the o-rings (that I just replaced) it was in fact leaking at the hose itself. After driving down the industrial part of town I found a hose supplier recommended by NAPA and they threw on a new fitting for me... for FREE I just had to get the old one off. So I carefully took a grinder to the sides and top to keep the hose from being damaged and got it right off. Fuel seems to be staying where it should now! Oh yeah, and the oil pressure sender didn't solve my problem. I'm sourcing a new gauge and I'll trace the wire for now.

Thanks!

Clean!

Make sure your vacuum is good to the control valve and that it fully opens

Finally got the new rod bearings installed and new oil pump/screen in there as well. After some royal clenching, she fired up and read ~66psi on the external gauge! Had some loud ticks on the top side of 1 & 2 but seems to have quieted as the engine has warmed. Will monitor this to make sure all is well. Afterwards, I hooked back up the oil pressure sensor and I get no reading, so either the switch or gauge is bad. NAPA will have me one tomorrow and we'll see. I also removed the rear bumper because I was bored waiting for that oil pump. 3 bolts stayed home but the rest came out fine. Was going to order the FEY 6300 but I need a receiver hitch so may wait until after the move to get the JCR DIY kit and be done. Very grateful the motor didn't blow up! Still need to test drive though to confirm, but I'm hopeful.

Reminds me of the terminator

My brother has the 2.8 in his S10. Absolutely loves the thing and maintains it. It’ll go for a long time.

Actually looks like the Aliexpress product comes with 7 terminals. Just takes a few weeks. Maybe less to Guam if you're there currently. https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832574069212.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

This is the female side part number MG610203 You'd need the terminals though. https://nexelec.com/KET-MG610203/

Closest I've found https://www.kinkong-connector.com/products/7118-3070mg6202124g0700-0007pinmaleautoconnectionckk5071n-30-11-ID7905.html

Let's say 50% to gov to be conservative. So with 775 mil there is no way I need that. 1. Pay off debts 2. Keep maybe 5-10 million for myself and build businesses 3. Give 1 million each to family/friends 4. Donate donate donate But, I too, would have to buy a ticket

Wanted to bump this thread with the above question. I just installed all 6 sets with Assemblee Goo and they were all the flat edge kind. Called Summit yesterday and they checked the package of 6 and said they don't have the cutout. Just trying to make sure I don't kill the motor. Edit: Somehow found this site that explains what that hole is. It’s for Fords but I believe the concept to be the same. Hope it helps someone else in the future. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-engine/600949-rod-bearing-oil-hole.html

There's a guy that drives his little Deere along the highway to go to stores. Just throws an orange diamond on the back. Those look like they'll last 25,000mi

What part of GA? "Moving" back there this month.

Thanks for the part numbers again! Just measured the clearances with the STD and looks like I need to order standard size. Getting ~.002-.0025. Last question then. The pair from Clevite that I bought CB960A was flat on both ends, while the ones I removed and the ones pictured in sets for sale have half circles on each piece. Does that matter? Oreillys can get me 5 pairs tomorrow but can't get me the set until next Friday.

Great callout! @eaglescout526 Any way you can post another picture of the main bearing parts and #s? The new part number 83507080AB says offset but it's only on the bottom and the Renix is offset on both pieces. Might be able to save the trouble using the Mopar parts diagram below? You can see below the difference and that the newer are centered but the old ones are offset. To note though, this is only an issue for .001" bearings since the other sizes are available from aftermarket suppliers. But hope this helps someone. Definitely saved me from spending the money to only have the wrong parts so thanks @75sv1

Love the "booth" setup

Short of modifying the heater core pipes themselves I'm not sure you can without modifying the whole box. The clearances are tight in there and don't allow for wiggle room. I also believe a screw or two on a bracket hold the core in place so it doesn't shift. My 88 was that way.

I went ahead and called Oreillys and ordered a pair of each: STD, .001, .01, .02 They'll be in tomorrow AM. When I pick them up I'll grab Plastigauge (Green) as well.

@ghetdjc320 Okay, so I just did a rod journal and got 2.0941" which is within the factory spec of 2.0934" to 2.0955". I'm struggling with how to determine the bearing size I should order though. How do I determine that? Do I just need to order multiple sizes and use plastigauge to get within the tolerances? Since the motor is in-chassis I can't measure the rod bore. I did find the below info on another forum but not sure how accurate Rod journal = 2.0948-2.0955" -- standard inserts for both top and bottom Rod journal = 2.0941-2.0948" -- standard inserts for top and 0.001 undersize insert for bottom Rod journal = 2.0934-2.0941" -- 0.001 undersize inserts for both top and bottom

I can at least put a micrometer on the rod surface just not the mains. And the one with most of the copper is a rod. I'll go to HF and buy their set since no one else in the area has one for sale.

Appears to be EF8933002665CD The site here decodes some of it, but in all honesty back then not every crank was the same hence mix-matching the bearings themselves. This appears to be the worst of them all as most look like the other. So I'm thinking I can maybe get a little more time before pulling the motor. I just gotta drive it a few states over and then I can begin the teardown.