howeitsdone

Anything is adaptable with a welder, a brain, and patience

"The price on the topper is $349.00.00 The price for the bed and frame is $300" Still not a bad price for the bed. It's the travel expenses...

I believe Dextron 6 has higher heat properties iirc. It's acceptable. Dex 3/6 and ATF+4 are all acceptable (ATF+4 used to NOT be, but a TSB changed that), just don't mix the ATF+4 with Dextron.

21 spline is out and waiting for the new shaft. Parts start arriving next week!

Lol mine sounds like it wants to punch me in the face, but those are my demons. Your truck sounds happy. Almost every car starts with high RPMs and levels out. Especially longer on a cold start. Gets it warm. If it started high and then stayed there permanently or just about stalls and fluctuates then there is an issue, but your truck levels out and idles normal.

Sounds very healthy to me

For your future reference regarding replacement part since it's no longer made. The GM part 213-190 has the correct resistance range but it's a larger diameter. You'd have to enlarge the manifold port to 3/8″NPT and then replace the connector.

I have the BOSCH. Don't have a REM to verify how it's working. According to NickInTime: GOOD: – NTK / NOS Mopar / ACdelco 23553: Highly recommend for it’s nice swing and more forgiving range. BAD: – Bosch 12009 NOT RECOMMENDED for lack luster swing, occasionally not moving at all, and having a harder time holding closed loop.

I read through that a million times, but since they want to keep the business there, they don't give actual specs for the shaft itself. I keep seeing early cut bd50-8 wide bearing shafts that are about $30 less, but have no idea if that will fit. Some specify BD50-8 and other just say "Wide". I did call Allstate Gear and they weren't much help when asking the difference between THIS and THIS and whether that difference is the gear cut. Some sites that specify the BD50-8 bearing say it fits an 88 dodge TC. Wouldn't that be early cut? Novak has only one Short, Early, Wide 23 spline shaft. So I get so confused. Clearly I'd buy the one that specifies pre-95, but if I can save the money then I'd go the other route. Can't justify $194 for the Novak shaft. Lock ring pliers will be in tomorrow. Can't get the ring off the shaft with my snap ring pliers to measure.

That's what I was beginning to think. I'm hours from civilization so finding another TC is out of the question. Now I know to just fork over for the early style input shaft instead. Thank you - been searching for that kind of answer. The 2-day Googling search can now stop

Thanks! So only what's in the picture? I keep reading about needing that half of the TC or needle bearing removal, etc... I just want to take mine out and put this one in. Seems it should work Edit: More specifically, my concern is with the outer ring and the needle bearing looks different. '88 vs '98

bump

The results I find don't end up really helping and instead have members arguing. So hoping to get a clear view here. I just picked up a '96 AX-15 w/o the TC • The TC from '96 would have a short input with narrow bearing • My '88 TC would need gear swapped to 23 splines clearly • Looks like 94.5 and on have a different gear tooth style than earlier Option 1 is swapping for a "pre-95" shaft, but I'm curious about a 2nd option. If I want to use later style shaft, I need the whole gear setup from late model for it to work, correct? (See Photo) Both options will cost the same as I can get the above used gear setup for the same price as a new pre-95 shaft.

Had that issue at the water pump. Old hose and wasn't quite seated correctly.

After a looooong 7-1/2hr drive, a new project is born. I think the AX-4 shifter will have a new home. Just need to get an input shaft for the TC. Bonus points since it's a '96...

Looks like the doohickey that attaches to the thingamabob

I think most people have FB and already have seen this, but just in case. Sept 22-25 in Moab, UT https://www.facebook.com/events/384638486654519/?ref=newsfeed Anyone going?

Trying to track down vibration & rough running issues before the MJ takeover in Moab. I'd like to be able to take it on a trail.

Drove around town yesterday and when I got home there was a rattling coming from the bellhousing area. So I gave it a couple hours to cool and dropped the trans. The upper E14 bolts and a single dust shield bolt were loose somehow. Starting to make me think that was the part of the rattling because everything looks great in there. It's not the only cause because I can depress the clutch to alter the sound. Pilot bearing looks great. Ever so slightly recessed beyond the surface and I'm guessing that happened when installing the trans last time. But that shouldn't affect anything. The slave looks perfectly normal too. So I'm perplexed as to what is causing issues in there. On a positive, the CPS was covered in caked oil. So I cleaned it all shiny and will be able to test if that was a cause of running rough.

How did you diagnose? Just tear it apart on a guess? Or was there a process? I think I'll try to pull the timing cover and inspect this weekend. I'm wondering if my timing is off somehow.

No it's good as normal. Doesn't even run hot at all since it's all open roads out here and never idles very long. Edit: I think you might mean for throwing off balance and not cooling, but either way...

Bumping with image of plugs in case I'm missing something.

Turbines on a LWB is like PB&J for sure

Which bolts to what? What's your engine/trans combo?

I'm with you. That's why pulling the highly electrical charged plug is the "safest" bet. But I believe these are NAPA. (Not saying NOT Chinese) The PO did those and a new battery when I bought it last June.