howeitsdone

This sounds like it could be exactly that now that I think about it. If shifting has nothing to do with it then I wouldn’t think transmission. It’s just so crazy that it sounded like it was coming from the tunnel so I would never have guessed otherwise too bad it’s not like I can just go replicate the noise unless I decide to camp in freezing temps again

To preface: I've owned the truck since June and all winter it was kept in a garage. So it's never been left out in freezing weather for extended periods, only throughout the day when at a store, restaurant, etc. But was never cold-start outside of the garage all winter. I camped up in the mountains where is got down to about 25f or so overnight. When I was ready to leave, the temps were maybe around 30f, so it never got above freezing. Started up fine no problem, but there was a rubbing & screech coming from the transmission tunnel. You could hear something turning. The clutch is new within the last month too. Of course it got worse while pulling out of the camp space. I made it across the road to get it in the sun and when I depressed the clutch, it died. Tried to start it up but wasn't working. Ended up sitting in the sun (8,500ft so get's hot quickly) for 10 minutes or so and fired right up. The screeching stopped maybe 5 or 10 miles down the road and was non-existent except for a random time climbing a hill in 3rd. Hasn't happened since I returned either so tells me it's freezing related. I'll note that the trans was in neutral and it was still happening. I put the TC in neutral and still happening too. While the TC was in neutral I could move the shifter into gear without depressing the clutch too which I thought was weird.

Yup, he did electronic. I’m looking for keyed.

Bringing this thread back because it never seems the OP was answered. Anyone actually done a handle lock mod? I know of the electronic mod, but interested in a keyed solution. Just threw my shell back on and plan on camping a bit this summer. Hoping to secure the contents of the bed.

Scroll down to "Transmissions" here. Lots of info. BA10/5 was '87-'89.5

Sure is! It's just hanging there waiting for me to give is as much attention as you've done yours lol

The seal I removed was AMC branded. Obviously these gouges came from something though; striations aside. If it was changed at some point then I just don't know what they were thinking. It's not like the gashes are on opposite sides where the seal would sit I turned the crank around and the other side is fine. There is a light horizontal marking that sits in center of the seal.

lol 12.4

Sold for $15,000!

Glad it didn't get turned cut up into a trail rig. Way too nice!

Went ahead and fixed this week. Had the parts, just had to do it.

Reach out to Kody Kilmer @Kkilmer87. You can find him on FB in the Comanche Buy/Sell group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/391114805368791 He literally just posted one

I've used these many times and they work great! https://www.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-8-1-8-in-Double-Ended-Screw-Extractor/1000170531?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-LIA_TOL_215_Power-Tool-Accessories-_-1000170531-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpv2TBhDoARIsALBnVnnUGfM0vgKEMmFU_QUCUyNnHJofWadobo7sQSa4E0qNo4NGLmZSzHMaAstGEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I added an auxiliary filter to keep the oil out of the intake. Could this be the problem? Maybe the filter I put on is restricting too much?

That's what I have. BS40612. Just not working right and I've got a feeling those gashes are my culprit.

Isn't Fel-Pro a double lip? The above didn't work this time either :/

Yes, barely on the inside as you can see. I'm guessing the hardened OE seal may have caused that. But I don't really feel much there with my finger. What I did this time after sanding a little bit was put RTV under the bottom seal in the cap. I'm hoping that the extra force applied combines with the light sanding all the way around and it seals better.

Seems I've found the culprit(s). Whoever tried to change this before me was a real pro Am I looking at a new crank or is this salvageable? I've taken a strip of 1000 grit coated in oil across the scratches to make sure there are no raised edges, but these seem deeper than ideal.

I like it

I think there is an idle adjuster on the 2.5. @eaglescout526knows these engines best.

I've seen where others mention emery cloth on the crank. Couldn't regular sandpaper work? I just don't know how fine to buy. I have some 800 or 1000 already. Could I slick with oil and use one of those? I understand it's just to make sure there are no raised edges to eat the seal. Since it's not on the bearing portion and only the seal portion I imagine there is slightly more leeway.

Update: So I found a scratch on the crank where the seal sits. I'm assuming that's the cause of the leak. Anyone know what the cost of a shop to sleeve the crank is? I mean pull the motor and do it. I'm trying to weigh that route vs finding a used motor or XJ donor. Don't really have the room for another vehicle on the property, but could be an opportunity for a full 97+ swap. I feel like disassembling the block and putting it all back together sounds like I'm going to end up replacing a lot of components due to wear after 300k miles and it's going to get pricey fast. May not be bad to be blind in this situation if a shop could simply sleeve for a decent price comparatively and later on worry about a replacement.

Shoulder bolts m7x1.0x25 P/N: 6503520 I think they're discontinued, but post in the "Wanted" section @Kkilmer87 might have some

MAPP barely burns hotter than propane. It's fairly negligible for an application like this as they both get over 3,500ºF anyway. Blue works just as good.

Rust will do that for ya! Can you get the brake line removed and parking brake cables undone at the top of the bed? If so, the hub is held in with 4 bolts. You could remove the shaft and wheel as one piece and have some better room to work. Otherwise it's most likely coming down to lots more heat and PB or WD40 when it's super hot then a BFH... You should be able to hit all around the wheel on the front since you're just looking to loosen it up. Just wait until you get to the drums