Jump to content

howeitsdone

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    691

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by howeitsdone

  1. howeitsdone
    I agree, but I want to retain factory connections. Left is defrost and right is fog. I'm pretty sure the fog is the same as cargo though.
  2. howeitsdone
    Technically a lot of springs will work with shackle mount relocation lol, but I was trying without doing so. I don't have a welder or I would try. Technically the Comanche is 11.75" from bottom to top of eye. The GM springs are 9.125" from bottom to top of eye. However, if you were to keep all 8 leafs, I have no idea how much the rear end would sit down since it would have a lot more reinforcement. But you could certainly remove them. Early Ford Ranger springs are only 3/8" shorter than the Comanche's and the total height is much lower. Maybe you could get away with those and an AAL? Dunno
  3. howeitsdone
    So I recently got a rear cargo light and faceplate. Only problem is that is doesn't have a switch. I can get a defroster switch for $17 from eBay but I noticed it was a different rear pinout than the fog & cargo light. To get a fog switch it's at least $40. So I'm wondering if I can buy the defroster switch and re-solder the pins to have it plug in and work with the cargo light connector. Anybody done this or have insight to the inner-workings of the switches?
  4. howeitsdone
    Something came in the mail today.....
  5. howeitsdone
    I think you could technically get away with any year Ranger if you're okay with ~.25" less in length. I'd honestly see if a local JY has any then and test it out for a much lower cost. They're $45/ea near me fwiw. 1/10th of the price of the monos.
  6. howeitsdone
    No other vehicles are the same length of spring. I've been looking into it myself. Closest you'll get to the measurements (A/B, 26/31) is old GM 1-ton (A/B, 26/30) or late 90's/early 00s Dodge Ram (A/B, 26/32). Both will affect the shackle angle. The Dodge springs might work though. Tough to say as no one has tried yet. Of course if you had an adjustable shackle bracket like from Ironrock it wouldn't matter... The 2nd variable is spring height. Comanche's are just over 10", but only about 1.5" thick. So you'd need a couple more leafs to reach the same height. I think Dodge are 2-11/16" thick but like 7" tall. Do you need it for support to the stock pack? If so, I would recommend picking up either and chopping off the eyes to put under the main. Either one is like $60 at a JY.
  7. howeitsdone
    Who needs a cargo lamp anyway... Went from basically having no light, to having the sun in the cab. I'm a-ok with it! The OHC is a great mod and I hope to add that in the future as well.
  8. howeitsdone
    Would it be for an Eagle? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. howeitsdone
    The best nights! [emoji1591]
  10. howeitsdone
    The towing is one of the best parts! I towed my MJ with fully loaded bed and cab, plus the GC was loaded down too, from GA to UT a few months ago. Certainly pushed to its limit in the Rockies, but I consider that ultra-extreme.
  11. howeitsdone
    It's the little things... Got a couple of the few LEDs left from OneWayLight and what a difference! I have no other light source in these photos either.
  12. howeitsdone
    @Minuit
  13. howeitsdone
    Yeah those part numbers are right depending on the year. If you specifically need the knurl dia. I would probably just call Crown (800-343-9666)
  14. howeitsdone
    I agree, leaning towards white if I go traditional vs. liner. Plus it's fairly forgiving. I like the blue as well, but testing some options first. It'll be quite a bit pricier to go with OE color vs a generic color. The Toyota looks good, but almost looks too fancy for this truck lol
  15. howeitsdone
    I guess I mean they're just so worn that once under an actual load and start to flatten, the main starts to invert. Don't have a pic showing since I don't have a load in the bed. But if there's no integrity issue with the main doing this then I could do as Pete suggested and add another leaf under it. Ultimately was trying to find a JY main leaf replacement. Thought this was a decent idea. @Pete MDo you remember what that leaf came off of? Looks like it should be about 50-52" or so at the length you have in your photo. I'm sure I would need to cut something
  16. howeitsdone
    Dirt road is about the only off-road it'll see in this condition, and no one is lifting it but me so those are a plus I suppose. You're thinking I should keep my main even though they're bent the wrong way? Curious what's the reasoning?
  17. howeitsdone
    My main leaf springs have seen better days. So I started down the "what JY swap will work?" path before dropping $500+ and came across old GM 1-ton springs. They are only 1" shorter in the rear than the Comanche's (30" vs 31"). They also use 9/16" bolts. Ours are M14, but it's literally .01" difference so should snug in there just fine. So I got to wondering if you could swap them & if anyone has tried. I've already got drop shackles which have two different holes to adjust if needed. You can find these packs easily at a JY for $50 or even buy the main leaf for $75 new. Obviously I'm not sticking 9 springs under my truck, but thinking I could make a bastard pack if needed. I'm not sure the arch though. Anyone have any insight?
  18. howeitsdone
    Been running okay since the surgeries. It's a bit quieter from the Kilmat too which is nice. Can REALLY hear that exhaust leak in the headers now And after removing the TC drop, Reverse is back to normal. Pretty much at the point of cosmetics now. Still a couple items to tackle in the engine bay, bigger gears, new leaf springs etc... but she's running just fine all over town for the time being. I also put some hooks in the ceiling to remove the topper for storage. Will need to add a couple more and do a pully to get higher, but for now this is perfect. Got bored and decided to play with some color options as I'd really like to lose the "Starry Night" wannabe look.
  19. howeitsdone
    Looking good!
  20. howeitsdone
    I'm guessing that the heat from the oil leak melted them. Can't wait to see if they made any difference! Forgot to mention I went ahead and put down some Kilmat. Eventually I'll replace the carpet, but for now it'll do. Almost done buttoning up for the test run. One of the hardest parts of the reassembly has been the harness locations. I've got a mile of radio cables in the DIN that I've got to shove to the glove box area because now I can't fit the radio in...
  21. howeitsdone
    Merry Christmas! I got the 242 installed. Definitely sits a bit low, but since I'm not climbing any rocks I don't see that being an issue. Plus, once the TC drop is removed it will be much better too. Don't have a transmission jack or anything so I just lifted it up by hand. Put an Azzy's linkage in place too but later realized the top portion is backwards so I'll swap those tomorrow. The bolt is hitting the TC shifting from 2wd -> 4PT. And (I'm guessing) because of the TC drop, it doesn't sit well in 4-low and there is about a 1/2" gap between the gate and the shifter in 2wd. So just another reason to remove the drop. Then I installed new cables from JeepCables and can't wait to see the difference when it's all put back together. The old ones were a melted mess.
  22. howeitsdone
    Key Parts posted they’ll have the shipment in January. But has since deleted the post it seems.
  23. howeitsdone
    Moved on to the interior side. Some Kilmat was delivered today so I knew I needed the carpet out. And I ordered the heater core the other day to force myself to replace it. I've got the next week off so I figured I better use that time wisely. So here we are. I don't wish the heater core on my worst enemy. At least not a RENIX. This took about 6 hours and I ripped the box off the firewall not realizing there was another bolt. I guess that's what super glue and JB weld are for. Plus if this goes well I'll hopefully never take it apart again. I need a beer...
  24. howeitsdone
    Absolutely. I do the same with a torch and some PB or WD40. There is too much oil all over the tunnel to use a flame safely. The stud for the TC has to be cut or removed with a tool. For the crossmember, I just haven’t bothered with it yet. But I want to take the drop off and bolt it back up so I probably won’t remove it.
  25. howeitsdone
    Nice! I started making them after another member requested one, but there didn't seem to be enough interest so I gave up. Was going to buy a roll of each and sell them, but oh well. Guess I could start doing them again...
×
×
  • Create New...