howeitsdone

His tone is nuts

Hmm, aluminum doesn't rust so the case is just dirty, but that output shaft looks blue which means that dark coloring was more likely from heat. Could be lack of fluid in that case. In the photo, it looks like you're trying to remove the tail housing. It's held in place with a lock ring, is that removed? As long as your AX15 231 is from pre 1996 then you are good. There are two different sized input bearings and corresponding shafts (.940, .630). You need to swap the input bearing too if the TC is from 1996+

Is everything missing on both sides? What would be barring you from looking at the driver's side to know what you need? Not sure why you'd need a spacer. Photo looks like that just slides right into that bracket and bolts down.

Drive to ACE or NAPA and bring the Driver's side bolt/nut to match a replacement.

Drove the truck from UT to GA this past weekend. All things considered, it went alright. I discovered the TC leaking in Kansas though and fairly badly. Had to take to some parking lot fixing but couldn't get it to stop. The solution was to "send it" and understand the TC would need a rebuild after. Yesterday I finally was able to get the TC out and I can't actually find where it was leaking. My best guess might be the breather, but fluid was/is everywhere underneath the truck and all over the TC with no visible exit wound. Lots of broken plastic among a couple of other things. Luckily I have the spare 242 and just swapped the input over yesterday. I'll install it today and see how she does. Truck also developed a really bad drivetrain rattle at about 1250-1500 RPM. I think the flywheel might have an issue but that will require more digging and it's supposed to rain here for the next week so that'll be a future project.

There is a great company called The Stratosphere that takes new guitars and parts them out so you can do just that. Not going to be low-cost necessarily, but great if you have a certain neck in mind. I prefer an unfinished neck as my hands get very sweaty and stick on the lacquer so I wouldn't even mind taking a stab at making one for the next build. Love the natural look btw! Came out great. https://stratosphereparts.com

Thanks! It's actually an automotive pearlescent. Was one of my first woodworking projects as you can tell by using boxes as stands . It was purchased as a cheap kit from eBay I believe. Had a buddy help me with finding hole placements in the body based on the LP blueprints and drilling them out. And had a lot of sanding/finishing to do. Ran with all the Chinese components for a while while learning and eventually started putting in upgraded parts like the Seymour Duncans, Grovers, Push-Pull pots (which are a game changer for those tele sounds). It certainly needs professional fret work. I tried my best but no matter what I always have some dead notes. My next project will be similar to yours. Which looks great btw! Much easier to make a flat style vs the contoured LP-style from scratch. I'm guessing you sourced the neck?

I'd start with swapping in that new gear. It's going to change your results.

Always been an acoustic player until a couple of years ago when I built my first electric. Got into lots of metal at that point and learned a different side of playing. The 59 in the neck is glass while the SB6 in the bridge screams. For now it’s sitting in a storage unit in UT.

The only place you'll find a receiver hitch is used or new from @krustyballer16 and I'm not sure he's working on any at the moment. You might get lucky and find an old Reece somewhere, but can be very hard to do. Your other alternative is an aftermarket bumper like Dirtbound, JCR, ARES, etc... with a receiver option or build one. I remember there being a universal Reece that should work too with a couple holes drilled into the universal mounts. Don't remember the P/N at the moment though.

That seems very expensive. FWIW I sourced my header from a JY and bought all of the pieces from Rock Auto except the Grille. I bought that from a seller on Walmart. Paid under $200.

That's pretty much it. Technically late model has 2 bulbs for the turn signals but I run only 1 and it's perfectly fine. To properly do the swap (minus fenders) I believe you also need to remove/move the studs but I left mine and only have it secured by the top 4 nuts.

I just got done driving from UT to GA twice in the last two weeks. The lowest I saw was $2.71 in middle Kansas. North GA is sub-$3.

I bet that smelled like freedom

Anyone else notice the blend of clusters? lol looks like they kept the original speedo instead of swapping the odometer over. My OCD alarm is firing

Thanks to Mike for sending scans, I've got it pretty spot on. Does look like Phoenix did get it made up though. Still happy to offer if desired. If you've got any other original decals that aren't currently made I can always make it happen!

Just sent Still packing today and driving in the AM through Sunday so won't get to it this weekend, but I've got Wed-Fri off for the holiday next week and will get it done.

What I have is about 2-tenths bigger Scans would be of huge help. If nothing else, I can redraw by hand that method. Even good, quality, head-on photos of each letter is like a scan. where I can scale based on a dimension and hand-draw. It's slightly tricky when the transfer sheet has words blocking parts, but not the end of the world.

That "e" is tricky so I can't get it perfect but this is the best I can do without owning one myself. I'm moving the rest of the month so the cutter is being transported around, so I can probably get one made and sent to either of you after so you can compare and let me know how close we are.

Thanks for the measurements! Pretty straightforward Only 2 more questions and it'll be ready to go. Are the overlapping parts of the "a" and "e" solid or do they cut there? Also curious of the seam identified in the screenshot of the "e" And does the tail of the "a" look correct? Hard to tell from photo.

If you can get me the dimensions then I can get at least the file done and then get some materials priced Need: Edge to edge (of word) width Character height of the first "C" and any letter after Thickness of the outline Space between letters The photo will help me get close, but the above dims will help me get near exact I used to do this as a hobby/side-gig a while back

I can literally make these if there is demand. Especially if it looks just like the photo @fiatslug87 posted I have a large commercial vinyl cutter that just collects dust The only thing is initial cost to buy the adhesive vinyl. The rolls can get expensive quick. So it might help to have a queue of orders. I can put it on my website to make things easy.

Many people report their BA10/5 can be tough going to 2nd during colder months. I was no different to that circumstance either. One solution, albeit not the safest to me, is to put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear to get it warmed up before you drive it. I found that 10/10 times it took me going down the road a mile to be squared away with no issues. You should probably do the above and report back

Looks good! You lifting it in today?