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JOMJ87

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Everything posted by JOMJ87

  1. Where you at in SC? I'm in Scumter at Shaw AFB Cole
  2. I have found that if you take starter fluid or carb cleaner and spray around the inside of your hood while your running it it will find any intake or vaccum leaks that you may have not seen. Just make sure its not hot when you do this. when you hit a leak the rpms will go up or down alot so you can pinpoint location. Cole
  3. I used that tool with the door open no fender removal just pick up that tool for 10 bucks and the correct torq that fits in a screwdriver (that is what that tool uses screwdriver bits). I think its a t-40 but double check. Do NOT buy cheap torq they will break and just cause more issues. Also make sure the bit is seated completely in the bolt head as to not strip the insides. The reason this tool is needed is a standard ratchet and torq will not go in that small area at the hinge. Sorry for the slow reply havent had computer access in a couple days. Let me know if you need more info. Cole
  4. And you live where? I don't live in Cali or Moab or what ever. Actually, he lives in VA. :teehee: :rotfl2: :laughin: :jump: :smart: :thumbsup:
  5. Just a couple of pointers: --If you can cut the lower third of the hinge off while the door is still mounted so you don't have to realign it later --Next if you can't because lack of a good cutting tool that will fit in the whole (like me) use this to remove door hinge from the door side. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00999397000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Screwdrivers&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes ---Buy new hinge pins cause the old ones are to long you want one (perferably the top one) Shorter than the other so it lines up and falls together easier i bought 1.5" pins cause if they are to long you can't get it to go on. ---make sure all the hinge bolts are tight as posible If you have any issues or questions let me know and ill try to help out. here are a few pics of the MJ without the doors just to let you know how it turns out.http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1217
  6. I have seen a replcement lock set at advance that uses the little round shaped keys like for tool boxes. I think they are for rice burners but they might work. Cole
  7. Check out the post below about welding the subframe there is a great article on it. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1722 Cole
  8. Take a pic of the transmission someone might know what it is from looks i think i seen pics of trans sitting side by side on here and explaned which was what. Or you could try calling the stealership and seeing if they know from the vin. Just throwing this out there. Cole
  9. I really like the round lights and the grill except the crome it would have to be flat black. I wonder how hard it would be to do. I am really concidering trying thisreally what could it hurt. :cheers: Cole
  10. I trimmed the hell out of mine so unless you are doing very little trimming they should work. Here is a pic so you don't have to hunt my post Since this pic i cut the rear part of the flares up to where the lip is on the lower part of the truck. I hope this helps if you have anymore questions let me know. Cole
  11. TJ flares work pretty good i have them on the front of mine and you might have some laying around since you have a TJ or find some that are not needed by the owner. If you want to see a pic go to one of my threads in the Projects area. Cole
  12. :fool: :thwak: There you go
  13. That is a great article thanks alot. That guy seems to really know what he is talking about. Just one question and it may be a stupid one but I am primarly a stick welder so do i have to use a mig or will a stick do the same thing. I know mig is easier in most cases but i learned on a stick and will soon have a stick. I can aquire access to a mig but then i have to travel to do the work. Thanks again for the great tech info. Cole
  14. So i should look to go 1/4 inch for the steel and I would appreciate somekind of help on the subframe welding if you do have to do something special. Cole
  15. I have stockers and 35s. I ran all over tellico until my tire ruptured 7 hours into the trip and i didnt have a 35 spare so it ended my day Limping out on the stock spare :oops: :eek: And yes everyone laughed. never broke anything else then and its 2 years later and nothing still hasnt come apart and i even have lockers now. Cole
  16. The idea is so i might have decent surface to attach some rock rails and hopefully a exo cage in the near future but for now i have some 1/8 inch angle that would fit perfect but i was wanting to know what everyone else has used for this. Also i have heard your not suposed to weld on the frame :dunno: but i don't know. Just need a little inoput on what to use. Cole
  17. Just a hopefully simple and quick question. I am getting a Lincoln tombstone in the very near future and have some big plans for the MJ. What is the "best" material in your opinion for plateing the subframe for a more rigid structure. I was thinking it don't have to be super thick but I'm not sure. I am wanting to put rock rails on it so it would also need to be strong enough to withstand those. Throw some opinions out there and let me here my options. Cole
  18. I would mount them up and flex the jeep to see if you have any clearance issues and if you do raise it an inch or so to clear. But they should fit good with 8"
  19. Lowes has the outdoor carpet for cheap and its the kind that goes in boats. Cole
  20. And they really aren't light when you're in mud up to your eyeballs! You could make the reciever for it high enough that it wouldn't hurt approach/departure (other than when it's on). I'm still not big on having things not hard mounted though. As I said, mud to your eyeballs... That is true but i was thinking about if you put the hitch kinda inside the bumper like alot of rear bumpers are done so it really wouldnt be in the way. But the whole mud to the eyeballs would cause a couple of issues especially when your teying to do anything to your truck in that situation.I thought it would be more like before you go wheeling slap it on but driving it as a DD in town you can stick it in the garage. Cole
  21. Yeah i have done alot of work sitting in the driveway but i had a Nieghbor call in and rat me out because it was 1100 one night and i was outside beaten and bangin on the truck and running an impact and other air tools. :oops: I really didnt blame them to much but now the cops drive by a little more often so its harder to get away with. But yeah you are not even suposed to jack it up at all but i do anyways. :brows: Cole
  22. Do these things really help or what. You think someone with resources could make one on the cheap? I haver heard some things about them and its been mostly good and i have thought to do it. Cole
  23. You could put a reese hitch up front and have the mount for the winch go in that. Then you have the clean look and the room plus it could be setup to work front or rear. Just an Idea. Cole
  24. Thanks and no i will not be putting the small star i talked myself out of it yesterday when i was planning with some masking tape. Right now iam going to add the lettering if i can find the style stencils i want to use. :mad: Still planning and mocking up a couple other ideas so we will see what i go with later on. Thanks for the props I am glad some guys appreciate the paint some of the guys onbase think its stupid cause its not a MB or any kind of M- series jeep But i told them its a dam MJ :brows: Cole
  25. I guess they could be dangerous :dunno: but i had them in for about 2 years before I went SOA and had no issues. But they were a pain to get in. The only issue i had was the rear when i had the little spacers on it since i didnt have a SOA rear i bought these coil spring things that go over your shocks to help if you have a load. But instead of putting them on it uncompressed like your suposed to i compressed them fully so my shocks held my truck up for lift. Cole
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