JOMJ87

Ok old post but i have a couple of questions i figured i should start a new thread on something thats already been explained. First does the motor make a diffrence like i have a 4 banger and the clusters out of a 4.0 will it work? does anyone know what senders to buy a part numberwould be great? anything else i should know. quick response would be great i am wanting to do this today and want to do it right. Cole

How do you think i feel its the closest thing to me and i can't take my truck to far cause it don't like anything above 55 and then it doesnt pull hills to well. I havent been able to really wheel since the I got stationed in South Carolina. :eek: I need something i can't take it :headpop: Cole

Since you stripped the bolts you can use a cut off wheel of some sort and cut the bottom piece off but its tight I did this on the passenger side. of bit the hell out of the hinge pins to remove them. I used PB blaster for three days then removed them. You shouldnt have to remove the bolts at all then cause if you do take out the bolts you have to realign everything which can be a pain. The best option is to be the hinge pins out and go from there. Cole

Mine had the same prob and it was the connector on the brake pedal under the dash. I rigged up a new connector and everything was back to normal. Cole

Once you slide the shafts some grease will come out because the seal will flex and move as you pull it no worries there and your lucky especially if its a dico axle they are the biggest pain :mad: to mess with IMO. And Good luck on everything going back together smothly. Cole

I have been told that the best joint as far as flex and strength are joints from a third arm for a tractor. They are not greasable and the center piece is to weak to use so they clank. But they work on large tractor and don't brake so they can withstand alot of torque and pressure. Cole

Cut'em Offthe MJ its not that hard then you can get rid of the YJ :D Cole

Acctually from what i have heard it needs to be on the passenger side to get the best results because of the torque or something. I think that link is the one that metions it if not just search in google and read some of the ones that pop up. Also about the shackle it is on top of the crossmember he made(do not use the stock one it will brake) so at full stuff it does push it towards the t-case and at full drop it pulls away from it and this is the design 75% of the ones ive seen are donr so there souldnt be any prob with it and also thats a YJ so Its shorter than a MJ. IMO don't buy joints from a 4wheel drive place they will brake but if you buy the third arms off of a tractor and remove the hem joints on the ends they are super strong but they rattle and arent greasable but they work great for flex. Just laying down some Opinions from my expreince. Cole

With 7 inches i fit 35s but i couldnt turn or flex to much. I did alittle cutting :D and everything turned out great so 36s will probaly need the same amount of cutting and around 8.5" or more of lift. Cole

There are many trac bars you can buy or even make for it that are made not to impead travel or just make one. Here is a link to a type that i found of a homemade one for a YJ but you can do the smae concept. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/t.molnar/TractionBar1.htm Hope this helps. Cole

If You have stock 30/35 axles you may want to get some spare shafts for the rear and stronger u-joints for the front. You also want to beef up the steering cause ive seen the arms bend in half and the box rip off the frame with 36s on a XJ And ive heard of this happening several times to people. Cole

feerocknok I will prob be taking mine out soon to make a new one and ill take a pic for you if you want

33s May look to small but thats my opinion> I have 7" of lift on 35s and i put a set of 33 14.50 on it and they looked to little for me. But other people may like that kind of look. Post up some pics when you get it. Cole

I have a SOA and stock springs and i don't have any trouble with mine as far as wheel hop or to bad of spring wrap but i have a 4-bamger so the torque on the axle is less than in a 4.0. My nieghbor just done a SOA on his YJ and he can't even wheel because the axle wrap is so bad and it cause the worst wheelhop ive ever seen. :eek: Just don't slam on the gas on take off or dump the clutch and it shouldnt be a issue IMO. Cole

Done mine. Cole

i think thats the same post i seen and they had cut the bushings off and put them on like that. Cole

Just thought of this what about a .5 inch shacle lift just to help the looks and see how you like it. Cole

I don't have an answer but i have seen mention of dakota spring packs recently on here since nobody has answered yet try looking threw some of the topics on lift and such. Sorry i can't help more just thought i would point you in the right direction. Cole

As long as its not stripped when you go to get it :D Cole

That may very well be the type i go with i just havent decided yet since only one is done. As far as the metal choice these are not meant to do as much in the way of protection as some but i made them out of 1.5 outside diameter .25 wall tubing and them angle is only 3/16 thick 3x3. I'm not sure about the exact type these were in the scrap pile and I'm on a budget. :brows: but i thnk they will keep me in the truck and protect me from most trees and rocks hopefully :eek: Cole

I wouldnt worry about the money i would try to sell everytnihg you don't need including the tires. Depending on the brand you can prob get 300-400 for the tires and thats more than you put in it. don't think of it as buying something lets say its an investment cause you will get more return than you put in. :cheers: Thats just my opinion. Cole

My latest project was trail doors which i made one last night and it turned out pretty good. Here is the hinge pins i made up on the fly And here's my latch until i get a good design thought up and no it want be driven like this I think they will turn out fairly decent when I'm finished. :D Cole

Thanks but one more thing i would like your honest opinion on how you would do it and how thick do you think the channel needsa to be for the above post pic to be made????? Cole

Ok i get the tube and all that but what about the mount on top of the axle i still am not getting how that mount would be made. I think someone said take and notch the pipe to fit around where the mount is??? would that work. I'm just thinking the rear side of the UCAs is easy to do but the axle side is whats stumping me. I guess i just need a little more clarification on exactly what a good plan would be since everyone disapproved of stumpys and that is what i was going for. Cole

ARB, Detroit and there are others but they are expensive if you want to have one thats you can engage and disengage. I went with the Lockright witch is the click type also aussie makes them to you can get them for around 150 to 200 depending where you find them and if they are new or used. I havent had any probs out of mine. Cole