JOMJ87

Stumpy Have you checked the arms to see if they would work like that??? When i first started my manche i thought to do this so I made them up and tried to put them on and they didnt work they bound up right above the mount on the axle. I had even put in a bend and tried it and still no go because the tube ones will acctually will clear the area where the stock ones hit. My problem now is trying to make some uppers but i just don't know how to make the axle mount. I had thoguht of doing what Stumpy had done and piece 2 together but i was thinking of adding 2X2 square tubing to the under side to make it more rigid so the weld don't flex as much. Does anyone think that might work?? Cole

A dana 27 is form the orginal jeeps in particular the CJ-2 don't hold me to that exactley i could be wrong. ;)

All MJs and XJs are but you do have a frame under the bed but yes its unibody. Cole

Lowes or sears should have them just be careful the brake when to much force is applied and they don't come back out very easy. Cole

I guess if i try it and it sucks i can always remove it and make it like it was. :cheers:

I believe its 8x8 square tube thats 3/8" thick and i pumped 300 in it to pressure test and check for leaks but i will only store around 135-145 because the regulator i bought is only for that much and then it shuts off the compressor. I may be mistaken on the size but its a chunk of steel we had laying around and i wanted to put more pressure to it but i don't hhave anything that will i think 300 tested it good enough. i have ran it up 3 or 4 times to check with the compressor but no leaks. I'm planning to get about a 25 gallon tank to replace the homemade job with since its so heavy and only holds like 3.2 gallons. Cole

Tell me more please i would like to know as much as possible before deciding what I'm going to do and how. Thanks Cole

So I finished 2 projects this weekend and wanted to see what you guys thought: The first is of course the doors that i asked how to do and the fender flares from a donor TJ Now the latest I put in On-Board air and a tank Ran the lines under the truck and I'm fastening them to the frame Homemade tank mounted in bed I also put quick connects on the bed rails

I know this topics been around awhile but i just got the itch... :brows: I just wanted to ask if i could get a detailed description of the eliptical setup on the rear. I would like to do this and would prefer to make it instead of purchasing. If you could tell me what springs to use and where to cut and how to mount. Also is there any reason i couldnt mount this setup closer to the frame it looks like you have around 2" above your mount. If anybody else has done this i would like as many designs and opinions as posible. Thanks Cole

I have access to multiple styles of welder and tools so that will not be an issue. I even have a 2x5x1/4" piece of channel to do the bumper with and several pieces of 3" channel and some tubing that i plan to make a stinger with due to a past near disaster. I think all of this together will make a good front bumper and my rear is already mocked up using 2 pieces of 3" channel thats a 1/4" thick and a skin to cover it made out of 1/8" think 3X6" angle. The only concern i have now is with the front as far as putting all the pieces i have together correctly. Thanks for all the great inputs to help me with my decission. Cole

I have decided on the rear after a few glances but the front is still in planning. I am thankful for the quick replys and will let you know what i decide. Also what material should i use?? Do you think Channel would make it stronger and work better than flat because i have 3" that i can use for th brackets. I have built alot of stuf and fabricated way more than i ever thoiught i would on my MJ but i just want to make sure my bumper could have a chain hooked to it and pull me out IF i need it to. :D I just needed some more experienced peoples opinions. Thanks again Cole

Has anyone ever made a front or rear bumper???? I am having trouble trying to figure on how to make the front mounts on the frame? I havent really looked at it to close but i do know that i want it to take a beating and not damage anything. I already have some channel i am going to use with a few minor changes but the mounts are what is concerning me. Any past experiences would be great even if you bought one i would like to know how it mounts and how far it goes back on the frame also if it is welded or bolts. Thanks for any input. Cole

Best advice is buy the manual that you get from advance or any auto parts stores. I was 16 when i got mine and i had a engine that was completely dismantled and had no idea where to start and the chilton manual came in handy. Just remember that alot of the torq specs are written by engineers not mechanics. Good luck and follow the torque pattern for the head and also i did add some sealant to the head gasket just in case but you don't really need to or it would tell you to in the instruction just some people have preferences. Cole

So here it goes... I have been on here for little bit and just got some good pics of the manche... It has a 4-banger, AX-5, D-30 Locked, D-35 Locked soon to be a 8.8 , 4.10s, TJ front fenders, Around 7 inches of lift, 35 BFG (not in pics), and a few other doodads including removable doors finnally.

Thanks I have started mine and will post pics when done.

OK i had some time on my hands and got bored.....So is this the way to cut them???? I know this is a crappy drawing but you should get the point.

Sounds good thanks for the help. Cole

i have heard this one before but didnt know how it would do so. Do you have any pics? that might help but i know what your talking about i just want to make sure I do it right. :D

Soooo, I want to make removable doors on my mj but can't decide the cheapest or easiest way to go about it. So I was just looking for some good opinions on how you have done it or how you have seen it done. I don't care how pretty it looks as long as its functional and want just brake off when it gets a load on it. Also if anyone has pics of what there hinges or doors look like so i have a pic to go off of i would appreciate it. Thanks Cole

It prob is your brakes but could be other stuff to. The first thing to check is your brakes if they are good then wait till after you replace the u-joints and drive it and see if all the work you do helps and if that still doesnt fix it sart checking the wheel bearings and anything else you feel could be the prob but it is most likely your brakes. Cole

If i remember correctly each seal was around $8-10 and then whatever fluid to replace what you have to drain out of the diff and also sealant for the diff cover and vaccum connection. I would say $25-35 total. Also take the old seals out if you can before you go get the new cause the idiots at advance (only place we found them) don't know what you are talking about and have to use the number off of the seal to get the right one. Let me know if you have any more questions. Cole

I just helped a friend do a complete restore on his axle and it was not fun getting the seals to seat the one in.The disco area on the passenger side don't have room to tap in so you need two people to do it cause you have to run a rod through the driver side all of the way across to the seal and tap it in that way :mad: . It is a job but the fluid will be fresh ;) which for the trouble its not really a good reward. Good luck and hit me up if you need any help. Cole

The axle seals inside the tubes are prob gone. On the short side of the axle it is right inside the pumpkin where the carrier bearing sits on the short side. For the long side if its disconect you have to remove the vaccum assembly and it is to the outside of the hole where the outer half runs through the tube. If these are bad it will allow gear lube to run out of the ends and bad u-joints will allow the axle to flop around and make these go bad. You best bet is to do them both at the same time and it is not a fun job :headpop: also check your lube in the diff before you drive it much cause if its too low it will not oil everything including all the bearings. Have Fun Cole

If you have diffrent gears in the front than what you have in the rear you will bust pretty much all of you 4wheel drive componet i.e. transfer case, ring and pinion, and drive shafts. DO NOT do this unless you want this to happen cause as soon as you put it in 4wheel drive the rear will spin at a different speed than the front. Your best bet is to check the tags on the diff cover and check to see the gear ratio if you have 3.07 stock in the rear and you still have both stock axles they will match. Cole

Hey man I know I'm new to this site but i have had my Comanche for around 4 years and have researched the same question and in my and alot of others opinions the flange design ( non c-clip) i feel are better for a few reasons. If you offroad alot and on rough terrian you will most likely brake a rear axle shaft, the c-clip design will brake and try to remove itself from the axle tube. This will cause great damage with you brake and anything else that gets in the way. As far as the flange design the are held on at the ends of the axle tube behind the brakes so in turn will not slip out if they brake. One more reason is that with the c-clip you have to open the Diff to take them out and the flage you do not which makes it easier on the trails. just my little $.02 on this. Thanks Cole