JOMJ87

I like the idea plus we already have some designs. the ones for the stickers :brows: Cole

That is no problem about the length of your post you have given me alot of info on what to use. But i do have 1 question How would you attach the bushings to the square stock? would you hole saw it and then sleeve it for the bushing or what? Thanks for the input. Cole

After all that debate he sold it right ouyt from under your nose.......I would raise hell :rant:

I wasnt offended at all, I respect you as one of the senior builders on this site and alot of my posts where a question about fab are there so i can learn from people like you that have done the type of work i am asking about. I understand completely where you were coming from and i would have felt the same way if i was you when i read it. I just wrote that last email explaining myself just so you didnt think i was a complete idiot and i actually do have an idea of what I'm doing not because i was upset with you. Anyway back to the arms..........So you think a good maybe even poly spring bushing would work well? what do yall feel is best for this aplication. i thought of cutting the ends of of some stock one and then pieceing them in to the tube but i don't think the host material on the stock ones would be a good base for welding. Thanks to everyone for all your input. Cole

I decided to ponder on this a while and thought of a idea. Really this is for the front but could work for the rear. Here is a horid drawing but you get the idea hopefully. It is a chunk of steel with a radius ground out in the middle to semi match the axle radius and since where you need to jack is half on the tube and half on the diff you could desingn it so that it is notched for this. Also it would have a strap on it to hold it on the axle so all it really does is sit in a perfect spot for the jack to get to and give it a good jacking surface. I am not good at explanations but this sounded good in my head. :hmm: but who knows. ps the grey is the axle and the blue the jack and the red the block and strap Cole

I think they are but cheaper and stronger than most out there :cheers: . I know of some people who have to rebuild there superflex joints after every trip but i think they have something wrong in there design. PLus these are cheap and strong oh did i already say that :brows: because they are for heavy duty tractors to use. Cole

I was thinking of using a square nut and getting it as close to the same size of the square tube and welding that on the end. And for my joints i was thinking these top links for a tractor. I would just use the ends cause they have threaded rods on the plus you can get super strong ones for huge tractors. The only problem with them is they are loud cause they have NO bushing they are metal on metal with just a grease joint. I have seen several setups using these and i used them initially on my truck for lowers. Plus they are cheap. I helped a guy setup a homemade long arm kit on a CJ that had a built 350 in and he said he never uses anything else for his jeeps or Trail buggies. Cole

:jump: :laughin: :rotfl2: :teehee:

I have a few resources here on base ;) so i will see what they have or can get really cheap or in short lengths of the DOM since that seems the choice of all of you guys. If that falls threw i will stick to the square. Thanks for the input. Cole

I had the gasket leak and mine would do this alot it would also backfire when i was just driving around. Spray around it with carb cleaner or starter fluid and get it all around the cracks to see if it revs or dies down if it does where your spraying is the bad spot. Cole

First part is that i already have the 2x2 and i thought it would be fine to work with. I have thought of DOM and the weld on tube ends with a superflex joint on the truck side but i wanted to know how everyone else has done it or any ideas.I think the 2x2 might be just wide enough for added reinforcement on the end and slip in to place for the axle mount if i use tube i would have to weld a peice of some kind of box on the end and then make sure i used gussets to feel good about it not stressing to much. For your second part...I have been welding for awhile now and have learned alot from my dad who is a tool and die guy and one of his friends that welds for a living at his job. I also have a fair amount of experience behind a mask myself, I welded alot of the initial lift components that i did before and they worked great no problems at all. I even peiced a driveshaft together and had no vibrations. The comment about getting a welder is because i joined the airforce and left my old welder back home for my dad so i didnt have access to one at my house where i live and my truck is here so I couldnt do any fab work and feel confortable with it fitting properly. I know I'm young and I DO NOT have as much experience as alot of the fabbers on here including you and thats why i ask so many questions so that people like you can help me get it right the first time. Thanks for all the input and I don't think you are talking down on me i understand your just trying to make sure that i don't KILL myself and i Appreciate all the input. Thanks Cole

I wouldnt worry as much with lift if i was able to trim a minamil amount I think CW has the right idea Heck you might take the flare off and trim away what ever your catching on then put the stock flare back on and cover most of it up. I bet it would be hard to tell it was trimmed if you took the time and effort to do it right. Cole

I used grade 8 allen head on mine so it was round and fit nice and tight. Cole

Disconnect the steering coupler between steering box and column in engine bay I seen the 2 metal rods that are for the key release and all but i don't know if this is where it goes or not. When i pulled the column out of a cherokee i just cut the rods cause i was in a hurry and know i am regretting it. I had tried to remove them but got tired of messing with it. I know they run up to the key but how can i get to them i tried to do it but the plastic that surounds the column wasnt coming off is there a trick to it. Hope this helps find my answer i don't think i was thorough enough with my initial question. Thanks Cole

I found some diferent sizes of spacers on here http://www.fatbobsgarage.com/cart/index.php?p=catalog&parent=26&pg=1&gclid=CNi3nfbylocCFQpbUAodzlOpsQ Cole

Function is where its at. :cheers: Cole

The ACOS spacers are suposed to be pretty good and you can make your ride height perfect say 1 side sags alittle lower than the other you can fix it with a little adjustment. Another way to do it would be make them from 3" pipe with a flat plate on the bottom like mine are then you can get it exact dead nuts. You can even take a stock bump stop or stock "style" and tap a whole in the spacer so that it will screw in and drop the bump stop as well. :brows: Cole

Anyone have any better instructions for pulling my steering column out or even getting to ALL i mean ALL of the electrical guts to replace them. I have a huge wire issue on the inside of mine So its time to fix it before it starts a fire. Any help would be great. Cole

Hey guys i know there are some bif fabbers on here and i was wandering who has made either fixed or adjustable UPPER control arms for there rig or others and if you have pics and descriptions please post them. I was going for Square stock 3/8 wall 2x2 for the body but unsure of the end. I think i asked this before but iam getting a new welder and have alot of stuff to do I.E. rock rails, external cage, finish tube doors, and bumpers and have decided on designs for most of this and have material so this is my last check off before starting fab. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row so it is semi smooth going and not to much down time between projects or during for last minute planning. Thanks Cole

That kinda looks the same as mine and mines oout of a ford ranger around 90 or something like that IIRC. Fits good for me and it was a stocker for the package the ranger had on it. Cole

can't have to many tools you just get to little space for them. :brows: Cole

I just used a drop braket also and it works great. Cole

Use one of those forkks that you use to pull TRE out with i had to use one to get mine off one time before. Cole

This is the second spammer i have seen on here recently. Another jeep forum I'm on has had a big problem with them. Cole

I have seen guys slam on brake and due to old master cylinders and other parts it will squirt brake fluid out of them. Check and see if the backing plates or back of the tires have fluid on them. It might be hard since its raining to see any wet places. Cole