scaleless

Get it hot, but not enough to deform the plastic.

Blast it with a heat gun, carefully get a plastic spudge in there and seperate the pieces. These tools are great for things like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SYV8NZ

I figured it was probably a member's! Your truck is very nice and is now immortalized on my fridge!

Ayy, score! Got half the parts in the mail and also received the BEST RockAuto magnet: I frankly look forward to the magnets more than the parts most of the time, haha! Yes, I know you can buy them in bulk, but that ruins the fun!

I agree, that would look bad! I'll probably have it painted in a few days - I'm waiting on a package from Rockauto and then the engine and the rest of the driveline is going in. Hopefully this weekend!

Eventually! Haha, it's been sitting on the floor for a long time now. It's been one of those "I'll get to it later!" things.

A loose fuse is absolutely not indicative of anything other than someone pushing a fuse in a little crooked and expanding the jaws that hold it in.

For the record, I don't mind if you spam your own build thread.

Get in there with a small screwdriver or a pick and carefully bend the tabs that hold the fuse inwards a little bit.

That happens to me a lot, but it always works with smaller images. I run it through an image compressor like https://imagecompressor.com/ and it usually works fine afterwards

Please stop spamming the thread

I literally can't tell what you're trying to say half the time

I've learned to avoid it at all costs!

So what you're saying is the high altitude CPS reads the flywheel at an earlier point in time, which tells the computer to fire a spark earlier... which some mechanically apt people might call advancing the timing? Edit: this was supposed to a sarcastic response

I assume he's vaguely referring to the regular vs. high altitude CPS but doesn't really understand how that advances the timing.

FIrst off, all your pictures seem to be broken. If you can get those working I can help more. This is why I suggested checking the fusible link. It doesn't always look visibly burnt when it goes, though. The fusible link powers both your front lights, hazards, and stop lights - all the ones you mentioned. The front harness only connects the front, but also obviously needs to be addressed first. You can quickly check the fusible link by testing continuity between the fat red wire coming off the corroded lighting connector and the starter terminal all the fusible links are connected to. A good link should only see a few ohms of resistance. I don't know of any source for the OEM connector other than the junkyard. You can splice in a male/female set of just about any weatherproof connector, though, if you'd like a new one. It doesn't hurt to replace them as long as you get quality replacements, but none are related to lighting. Yes, the dash harness will have all connectors regardless of what accessories are actually installed. But not the engine bay and lighting harness, to my knowledge. If I could see your pictures I might be able to help more.

Took me a while to figure out you weren't randomly slapping your keyboard lmao

That's crazy! I want to see the build thread on THAT!

The block is supposed to be there, yes. It's there to deflect the box in case of a front-end collisions so the steering shaft doesn't, like, spear through the driver.They removed it in the HO years.

If you were able to get the key out, then skip the penetrating oil and start blowing it out with electronic cleaner and compressed air. There's probably debris stuck in the cylinder. If the dirt is still stuck in there, you can probably work it out by wiggling the key around after dry lubing it up.

If it's REALLY stuck, spray penetrating oil in there and try to carefully wiggle the key back and forth. Carefully! Don't want a snapped key stuck in there. Just keep wiggling back and forth and in and out if it can move that way and it should free. Once it's out, clean the oil out with electronics cleaner, dry the lock with compressed air, and replace the lube with a dry lock lube. Wet lubricants collect dirt and dust, and debris in the cylinder causes exactly the problem you're having right now.

Ha! That's a really smart idea, Pete. I think I might throw that on my truck!

That's crazy. My block was sitting outside with water in it for 4 years and cleaned up fine.

Usually it's not the fault of the locksmith, but a consequence of the fact that you're duplicating a key with 30 years of wear and then sticking the new, sharp key into a lock with 30 years of matching wear. Clean the locks out with electronic cleaner and lube them up with dry lubricant and work the key in and out, lock and unlock and it usually frees up fairly quickly.