Big_Mark

I ran an ignition switch and a separate push button starter switch in my Scrambler. It was handy for "situations" were the starter was required to get through some obstacles I shouldn't have been trying to traverse. Winch + starter + "in gear" kind of things, useful for rock crawler, not so much for a stock MJ. Slightly off topic

I've been thinking about this topic for a few days so here's my take. Safety is relative. You can't rely on drivers around you to keep you safe, so you need to know the limits of your vehicle (any vehicle), safety features, faults, peculiarities, and so on. Part of vehicle safety is operating the vehicle within the boundaries of the vehicles capabilities. For instance I can do 85-90 in my Jeep but I don't, it's got a 6" lift and my timing chain needs to be replaced, either one of those gigs are reason enough not to drive at excessive speeds because, for the lift: the stock geometry is altered. While this is great for wheeling, it's not super for on road performance. for the timing chain: I need to drive like grandma, or at least keep the RPMs under redline until I can address the issue, even with OD getting up to 90 MPH will take some RPMs, so I don't. Also my brakes work well, but not great so I maintain a good following distance and drive defensively in traffic. I discovered these things by working on my Jeep, observing how the car handles and performs, then have adjusted my driving style, for this car to follow suit. I believe if you do something like this with your Jeep you will be a safer driver that operates their MJ within it's safe operational boundaries. Aside from that there isn't much you can do to add safety features unless you want to retrofit an air bag for some feel goods. Other drivers are something we have no control over, the best you can do is stay alert. Like the Drill Sgt says "Stay alert, Stay alive" I've driven "unsafe" cars for years and continue to do so. Fortunately, defensive driving and driving within the capabilities of my rides have done me right, hopefully it works for you too.

I have one with intact fitting on both ends. However but the "brackets" are in bad shape. If you want it it's free (except shipping) p.m. if interested

I'll look in my parts bucket, I think I still have one.

It seems odd that you would have so many defective radiators, I know you're discouraged enough but if you have a bad head gasket blow by could be sending pressure into your cooling system, causing the radiators to fail. You indicated there is a lot of oil coming from your engine, this can also be a sign of blow by (more likely rings than radiator for oil). Sorry to add more to the pile.

That's the widget right there! If mine wasn't working I'd buy this one

It's a vacuum driven "servo" that opens and closes the flow of hot coolant to the heater core when you move the heat/air/etc. control in the cab. My money says nothing happens when he moves his lever

That's what I just did, sound deadening, friggin headliner is in and it does sound and look much nicer. I picked up some tweeters from the junk yard the other day, and plan to pop them in this Summer when I install my rubber floor mat. I tried installing the rubber floor mat but here in WA in Jan it was too cold, so for now I'll just run 4x speakers and work on other items

I just installed these. Doors - JVC CS-DR521 speakers fit behind door panel if you leave the JVC grill off. B Pillar/rear - Kicker 46CSC464 speakers I like em! BTW I had to run new speaker wire to 3/4 speaker locations so be prepared!

I've got a picture of the ID tag. When the PO swapped in the transmission, he must have used the T case as well, wish I had known before ordering my T case rebuild kit, oh well that's all part of buying a truck from some bushes .

I'm going to include vehicles I drove and maintained for 3 years in the Army since thats when I started driving on a regular basis 198* Chev Blazer 3/4 ton Diesel - Army (US) AMFL, Manheim Germany 197* - M577 APC - Army (US) AMFL, Manheim Germany 1989 Ford Ranger 4x4, 2.9, Rancho 2.5" lift, Borla Header 1982 CJ8, eventually this became a trailer queen rig with Dana 60 f/r 6:21:1, 35 Spline, T18, blueprinted and balanced 5.0 from 1987 Crown Victoria, dents 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx SS 1984 Toyota Corolla "the Bucket" 1989 Discovery 2 "the tin can" These thing are so flimsy I had to sell it, there is a reason all the "Camel Trophy" photos from back in the day show guys unsticking these rigs! 2006 LR3 "the money pit" 1992 Honda Civic "the stolen car" 2010 Toyota Prius 2015 Chevy Silverado 1989 Jeep Comanche 1969 Mustang, Mach 1 - My Uncle bought it new, we've resto-moded it with an SVO Crate 351, Holley fi, suspension, steering, more - it's loud and goes fast So far that's where I'm at! Lucky 13 baby!!

I haven't watched for a few years (like 5?) that was the last time I had friends in the race.

Well I finally got the transfercase out. the chain was lose and I found a spot where it was dragging on the shifter fork Next, read the rebuild guide, rebuild subassemblies, then put it back together ! I have my work cut out for me!

Hi gang, I have finally rewired my a/c pump to an in-cab switch so I can repurpose my unused a/c pump for on board air. The next thing I need to do is plumb in a hose from the output port on the a/c pump. which will either be plugged into an auxiliary air tank (under the bed I think) or directly to a hose to fill my tires after wheeling. Unfortunately, I "cleaned up" the stock hose so now I either need to replace it with a "new to me" one (junk yard run) or, better yet have a custom hose/pipe made so I can bolt on regular air hose couplers. Can anyone tell me what hose fitting size and type is used on the circled port below? Thanks!

if you are putting 37s on there, go straight to Dana 60s, otherwise all that effort to convert to Dana 44s will be wasted $$ Please post pics

At last! Mine are so beat up, I hope these are reasonably priced

Dang, that's not a garage, that's a HANGAR! Good on ya!

Thanks @howeitsdone much obliged, now i can fill er up and get the grill on (right side up)

Hi Gang, I am on the back end of my cooling system restoration project and have two mystery bushing I hope someone here can identify for me. I think these might be for the A/C "radiator" that I no longer have, but wanted to be sure. Here is a top view: Here is a side view: I'm pretty sure these aren't the ones that go on the lower radiator guide pins, since the ones I am using fit properly. and the radiator fits snugly in its position. Before I wrap it up the rest of the way I wanted to be sure the mystery bushings are not, in addition to the lower bushing I am using. Please let me know what you think these are, thanks all!

Yep, but steering is something to be aware of, and check post install, with any height of lift.

Old Man Emu (OME) for the win Jeep Comanche Lift Kit: 5-6" Jeep Comanche Lift Kit, OME (rocky-road.com) it says 5-6" lift but fit up to 33" tires. While that seems tall it's not really that extreme. Take a look on the forums to see various lifts, mine is 6" here's what it looks like from the side with 31" tires. OME lifts are known for their excellent on, and offroad handling characteristics. I've know people that used OME on CJs (4 leafs) and my friend who has one on his TJ (4 coils) both provide a stable on road ride and super flexible offroad handling. As with any lift you need to plan on making some steering improvements, whether that is a dropped pitman arm or a high steer conversion, you will need to keep that in mind since most kits don't include that. Also, drivelines will likely need to be replaced, don't mess around just go to Tom Woods Custom Drive Shaft Shop | Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts (4xshaft.com) they are the best. Also, yes you should plan for some body protection if you plan to go offroad, especially "rock crawling" at minimum rocker skids, otherwise you may end up with a Jeep that looks like mine

How did you fix the diode?

I'll take a looksee in a bit. I replaced my white relay with a new one, it's silver/metal. I have an unused relay connector as shown in the OPs photo, that looks just like the one he has, the one with the white relay in there. Sorry to cause cornfusion, (that's my favorite dish )

That def not the horn relay, for my rig at least. My horn relay has 3 prongs (not rigged), and the horns work fine. MORE MYSTERY!!!

Does anyone know what that white relay is for? I have the connector, but the relay isn't in, everything seems to work as expected so I wonder if its cruise control related. (I eliminated mine) but I'd like to know for sure, thanks!