pizzaman09

Ah, the good old 40 60 split bench. My 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight has one, it's definitely more comfortable than a Comanche bench.

Your stock seat covers look to be in much better shape than mine, same color and seat. Any chance you'd consider selling them when you are done replacing the seats?

Good advice

My entire truck was painted Rust-Oleum black. Grill is unfinished factory black plastic. The metal strip above the grill is a phenomenal product called bumper and Trim paint by Rust-Oleum, comes in a spray can with a picture of a bright yellow XJ on it. It's a super fine paint that doesn't fill in any texture.

There were certainly Comanches with Dana 44s, all the Metric Ton package trucks as well as some others. I was more than pleasantly surprised that my 90 Eliminator had a factory LSD equipped Dana 44. That said, if you are looking for disk brakes, you need to look at newer vehicles, I'm no expert but I tend to remember the Ford Explorer 8.8 is a really good choice and we'll documented swap.

For most enthusiast vehicles, manuals fetch more money. In my 3 year search for my dream Comanche, a 4x4, 5 speed with a 4.0L, I found that the auto transmission Comanches were much slower to sell. Manual ones generally sold very quickly. I am also into 80s-90s vintage BMWs. An automatic BMW of that vintage is typically a 20-50% value hit compared to a manual, there is an over abundance of auto ones and a short supply of manuals even though the original take rates for manual were very high on them back in the day. The only place the auto is worth more is for people building highly capable off roaders. It does make rock crawling easier.

I did the swap to the Volvo 4 hole injectors on my 90 Renix. It was an easy swap, unbolt the fuel rail, make sure all the orings come out with the old injectors then slap the new ones in. Some fuel will leak out but it will evaporate before you get everything buttoned back up. The most notable change for me was a lot smoother operation. I don't have good fuel economy or power data from before the injector swap because my header bolts were all loose and I fixed the a few days after doing injectors.

Are those from a Cherokee based Wagoneer? They look nice and I like the extra elbow padding.

The ACC carpets are quite good. Got a set for mine.

I've learned with sheet metal work on vehicles is, close enough is easy to fix with a hammer and a welder and potentially a little extra plate material. It's not like you are aiming for factory exactly the same. I fixed my driver's side floor with flat plate welded in, all welded with a mig welder that I didn't realize was out of gas.

This, best thing you can do if the 4.0 is a Renix era one. Just do everything your skills allow you to do on the list. I'm at 256k miles, oil pressure is similar.

That's the plan after I get a spray in liner to protect it further. I don't need water going through those holes and sitting between the drop in liner and the bed.

Yep, a vacuum leak will do that on an engine with a MAP sensor.

Cool rig. A removable rooftop camping rig is a far in the future desire of mine.

Coolio! I quite like the liner save for two things, it blocks access to the factory tie down loops, and it is very slippery.

Cleaned up the corrosion in the bed, what ever came loose with a pressure washer got addressed. Wire wheeled the rust. Used Loctite rust neutralizer before painting. Also used trim paint to clean up the primer over spray that was on the bed liner. Overall I was very pleased with how little rust there was for a 256k mile Pennsylvania truck. I am fairly confident the bed liner has been installed since new since the date code is from 89.

Just found that my Pendaliner bed liner is a model number J60-BT if anyone is curious for future info.

Yep other corner of the state. This one was poorly advertised and it took me. A lot of research to get hold of the guy selling it, I found out he had a little corner lot dealership and called directly instead of contacting on Craigslist. It was in a little town called Bowmansville. I have all the dealer records, I'll see which dealer it was. I've been to Bantam once before, years before I owned a Jeep, might make it back some day. I took mine to the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix this past year, was the only Comanche there.

My parent's ZJ definitely had a noisy fan.

I have a Bosch, seems to work well, definitely noticed an improvement in performance compared to the 250k mile stock one that was in mine. I'm interested to see what the REM says when it shows up.

Very nice, looks like you are building a version of my 90 Eliminator. You may motivate me to get the 10 hole wheels refinished and back on the truck.

Nice work. I was strongly considering this truck as I wanted to autocross mine. However I had just purchased a piece of property that really needed a 4x4 truck. I'm jelly of your REM, I have one on order and can't wait to get it in.

I sorted out the trouble with the CAD! I had played with putting some zip ties on the rubber connector at the vacuum diagram and apparently swapped the lines. Now that I've swapped them back the system works perfectly on demand every time! Very pleased, I must have fixed a vacuum leak with the zip tie as before the system worked but unreliably. I am a little disappointed that I've lost 2wd low, it's so useful for moving big trailers about and hooking up trailers. I may put in a vacuum switch to make this an easy option.

The best undercoating I've come across is the PVC undercoating that came on the entire underside of my 99 BMW M3. It was a northern car it's entire life and I drive it in some of the worst of the salt belt every winter. It has some rust but the undercoated areas have held up phenomenally. That said, all the advice listed above seems spot on. One will never stop the rust unless you don't let the salt water get to it, it's just a question of slowing it down. The Comanche is the first four wheel drive vehicle I've owned, and I plan to let it stay parked all winter to prevent it from rusting. It's darn clean for having 250k miles of living in Pennsylvania. I can see the inside of the bed above the wheels has surface rust that hasn't made it through the metal yet, I'd like to keep it that way.

I need to fix this issue on my Austin Healey Sprite right now. Careful welding with a gas mig will get you a long way towards a fixed striker.