pizzaman09

I wasn't aware that you had a kit! I don't formally have the cruise control speedometer cables either but was thinking of just ordering new. Do you have them as well?

Hi all, I'm looking for Renix cruise control parts. I need the: Servo Clutch switch Brake switch Wiring harness I have the: Computer Turn signal stock Speed sensor Speedo cables

My truck apparently didn't have a vacuum check valve on the vacuum line connecting the HVAC controls / and 4x4 controls to the intake manifold. I purchased a cheap doorman check valve and now everything works much better! 4x4 engages when you pull the lever and HVAC doesn't just change vent level when you hit the gas.

Cool sounding projects! If you are looking for a manual, the AX15 is the transmission of choice. As you read, the tcase is clocked differently on the YJ and probably also TJ. What this means is when you are sitting behind the transmission output looking towards the front the the vehicle, the tcase is rotated relative to where it would be in a Comanche or Cherokee. If I remember correctly the tcase is rotated upwards clockwise more on the Wranglers to give them better ground clearance. The issue is this position may cause fitment issues with the top of the tcase hitting the cab floor. I really don't know the details myself but I tend to remember reading the some people hammer their floor, others drill new mounting holes in the tcase. The easiest thing to do is get a tcase from a Cherokee.

It would appear that the culprit was a lack of vacuum check valve for the heater. The only fitting in the line was a brass barbed fitting in the manifold. Does anyone know what the part number is for the factory fitting or should I just get a generic inline doorman check valve.

Confirm all the header bolts to the head are are tight.

If the coil is putting out spark, then check the distributor cap.

It would be cool if someone made a gear splitter that fits between the AX15 and the T case. I'd love to have 10 gears and twin sticks.

Our guess is we had about 6000 lbs between the trailer and what was in the bed. Manual transmission 4.0L with a Dana 44, but with the standard springs. Towed pretty well but we definitely took it easy. Front end was a little vague. This was only 2200 lbs of scrap metal when I got weighed after drop off at the scrap yard. So total weight was up around 3000, quite easy to tow. The brakes in my Comanche are very good, I'm running a stock original booster with some high performance Hawk pads up front.

Start at the ignition coil and see if there is spark between it and the distributor. That will help isolate where the issue would be.

I'm sad that I missed that. Didn't have time this summer to think about making my Comanche nicer, was using it as a farm truck.

Awesome! I definitely need the foam too. I'd I'll have to think of other parts, do you have any good condition non power remote controlled mirrors?

Indeed, the first thing we did was replace the filter, it was solid.

The harbor freight 13 or 20 ton hydraulic press is surprisingly affordable and does a s excellent job on removing rubber bushings. If you have liquid nitrogen, it makes breaking the rubber apart quite easy, that's how we salvage rubber aerospace parts where I work.

The two pin connector looks like a fog light connector to me.

Do you have any photos? I make my way down to Cranberry area on occasion, I'm just south of Erie.

I'm looking for good condition upholstery for my 90 Comanche Eliminator. Grey interior with the Eliminator buckets. Particularly the driver's side is worn through badly. I'd take the upholstery, foam or full seats.

I could see the fleece sticking well to the adhesive and it would avoid the potential for foam delamination.

I'm interested to see how this turns out. Share a few pics of the material and process if you would. I replaced the material on the sunroof cover of my parents old BMW 740iL. The OEM foam backed fabric was mighty expensive at about $75 per yard. Are you suggesting that a fleece is a nice alternative material for a headliner?

Diesel doesn't age nearly as badly as gasoline. That said the stuff in the lines is probably junk but the stuff in the tank will probably run the engine. I helped someone resurrect an M1008 Army Chevy K30 pickup truck with the awful 6.5L Detroit Diesel. It had been parked for 10 years due to a bad fuel pump. With the pump replaced we could get it to start and run at wide open throttle. After several minutes of it only running at WOT it started to idle and run perfectly on the diesel that was 10 year old in the tank.

I'm personally a huge fan of the Power Stop brand that Rock Auto sells. After years of cheap rotors on my Oldsmobile that would warp a month after installing them, I finally purchased some nice Power Stop components, they fixed all the warping issues. I haven't had to do rotors on my Comamnche but I did upgrade the front pads to some Hawk performance pads as there was a killer memorial day sale on Qradatec. I'm very pleased with them, they have definitely improved the braking performance of the stock brake system in my Comamnche. Additional tip, if you live somewhere in the salt belt, get the coated parts for corrosion resistance, it helps considerably.

Nothing wrong with running the exhaust with nothing after the O2 sensor. Some vehicles sound amazing, others like trash with such a setup

If there is one thing I've learned about driving manual transmission vehicles, the older it is, the more you have to learn the character of each gear. Ford Model A truck, have to double clutch everything and be light handed with the shift lever just suggesting it go into the gate to engage smoothly. Austin Healey Sprite, always shift into second before engaging first, and a long pause between 3rd and 4th prevents grinding. Jeep Comanche with the AX-15, slow shift into second from first, particularly appreciates a good rev match. 99 BMW M3, easy to shift but needs to be warmed up to make finding gears easy. New Ford Bronco, so easy to shift it almost has zero feeling. I can definitely say the BA10/5 was the smoother shifting transmission compared to the AX15 but only when warm. When cold the BA10/5 really doesn't like to wake up.

Based on what you are saying, I'm still skeptical that the clutch is fully disengaging, it may be worth bleeding. With respect to temperature, both of my Comanches and a few other of my manual cars all have notable issues shifting when cold. The 88 Comanche with the BA10/5 on a day under 50deg F wouldn't even take second gear until I drove it at least 1/4 mile. My 90 Comanche with the AX-15 also has difficulty shifting into second when cold, double clutching helps, the Royal Purple syncromax fluid I put in also helped.

Is it colder than it's typically been? Are you sure the clutch is doing what it's supposed to.