pizzaman09

I covered that hole with a piece of gorilla tape. I also had the same HVAC issue under throttle. When I installed cruise control I got a full new vacuum harness and accumulator ball in the front bumper, that fixed the vacuum leak that was causing the HVAC to not work. If I was to take a guess, I think I had a bad accumulator.

I just wanted to say that I like your Gravely sticker. I've got myself an 86 pro master 50 for mowing my lawn.

Fantastic! Been there before with another car.

Sounds like my truck when I had a Bosch O2 sensor in it. I swapped it out for a new NTK and no longer have the issue and my idle is much smoother. My Bosch sensor was brand new, but it just didn't work well. My REM code was lean.

Yep, a 96 axle swap sounds like a grand idea.

I had that happen to my Oldsmobile, GM 3800 series II. I figured it out when I looked under the car and saw the cat glowing.

I've towed over 25000 lbs of scrap metal to the recycler this year. Also had a trailer load of 93 large tires and a bed full of electronics and paint to take to a recycling event. Our guess is we're up around 6000lbs total payload. Took it well, front end was a little light.

My brother once saw two driving together on a back road near by, both lifted. I've seen one painted a great shade of teal lifted over a foot. Else it's very rare, I've seen two different ones up on I-90 going the other way. I probably average seeing another one once per year.

Looks great in red! If I buy another Jeep truck though, I'll be getting an FC.

My other classic is a 62 Austin Healey Sprite. We added lap belts but the steering column does not collapse and the windshield is a foot from your face. I drive it like I stole it, however I do avoid highways in it. The best piece of safety equipment I've put on it was very bright LED headlights and a red ribbon on the top of the antenna as it is near invisible to most motorist. Very similar to being on a motorcycle. I even have been known to daily drive the Sprite for weeks or months straight, it's a car and it gets me to where I want to go in the most fun way. The Comanche feels just fine to me, the safety doesn't bother me one bit.

That doesn't prove whether the CAD works as the t case will lock the shaft from turning. If you jack up the front end, in two wheel drive both wheels should be able to be spun without spinning the other wheel, as they won't be connected. When you engage the 4x4 and thus the CAD then when you spin one wheel the other should spin in reverse through the open diff. That said, it sounds like you probably have a vacuum issue preventing the CAD from engaging. Mine was unreliable until I replaced my full vacuum harness and accumulator, now it works perfectly.

My CAD was pretty unreliable when I purchased my truck. After I swapped out the full truck vacuum harness for the cruise control one, it must have fixed a vacuum leak as the CAD now works perfectly and reliably. I'm thinking that my accumulator ball had a leak. Every time I drive the truck I make certain to actuate the 4 wheel drive for a moment and it always engages immediately. I am all for keeping the CAD, replace the vacuum line and make sure to actually use it occasionally.

That's north of $15k as the mileage is low and it's mighty original. I don't think you'll get over $20k. I sold my first Comanche on BaT, was the first one ever listed on the site. I highly recommend BaT for this truck. I've also listed a Mini and a Ferrari, the Mini was too new to make an impact and didn't sell well. The Ferrari was an excellent sale as the site really enjoys great interest from people that want 80s and 90s enthusiast vehicles.

An easy way to know if the piston is sticking is if you have a lot of slop in the pedal prior to it feeling like it is making pressure and pushing on something. It could have like 1/4" of slop but if you have much more the piston may be sticking.

We do need to know what engine you have. That said, header bolts are known for being loose on the 4.0L. If you have a 4.0, make sure they are all tight. These are the nuts and bolts that hold the intake and exhaust to the head. You may even find a few missing.

Driveshaft length changes, particularly to be made shorter are pretty cheap. I had two driveshafts for an F150 rebuilt and the one shortened just for about $140 locally. That included all new Spicer U joints.

Check to see if your intake manifold and exhaust header bolts are tight. You might even be missing some bolts.

Those compression numbers would be sad for a flat head Briggs and Stratton. I would expect to see numbers between 110 and 150 depending on gauge with the desire that they are all relatively close to each other.

I have had a recent set of issues with my clutch hydraulics. I found gravity bleeding to be bay far the most successful and easiest way to bleed it. I just opened the bleeder on the bottom, and kept pouring in fluid up top. Probably let that occur for 15 minutes then closed the bleeder. It was bled perfectly, no pumping required. What is the condition of your master cylinder? Are you sure the piston is coming all the way back out when you let off the pedal?

My truck is the same, it's actually an Eliminator where someone ordered the D44 and LSD!

The Comanche definitely has some pretty weak taillights, just second place to the ones on my Austin Healey Sprite. I'm personally partial to the idea of the third brake light up top as that is more normal. I'd also suggest just looking into a brighter LED bulb for the tail lights from a reputable LED manufacturer.

I'm not from Cleveland, just south of Erie, PA. Cleveland is the best place to get cheap direct flights, hence our journey started there!

The second Comanche that I have now was far less exciting. April 2022 my twin brother and I purchased a farm that we intend to build a house on the land. The property needed major cleanup and we didn't own an appropriate work vehicle. Our daily drivers at the time were a 99 Oldsmobile 88, a 99 BMW M3 and a 62 Austin Healey Sprite. I had been searching a long time and a week after buying the farm found my dream Comanche, just a short 5 hour drive away in Reading, PA. It was a 90 Eliminator with the AX15, 4x4, 4.0L, short bed and factory AC. A few other nice options too but those were my requirements. It was hard to purchase, the seller didn't respond to Craigslist messages, I found that he owned a little corner car lot so I called him directly. He said a lot of people had interest but I was the one who was bold enough to call him directly. He was trying but failing to get the parking brake fixed and didn't want to sell until he had that sorted out. I had a ride down to that corner of the state just the next day lined up and told him I'd bring cash. So my twin, and father headed down and purchased the truck. It didn't run well, at the time I didn't realize that the intake manifold bolts were loose. Still we drove it home, only stalled a few times. Been a great truck and used it to haul 25k lbs of scrap metal to the junkyard and have had a lot of fun tuning it up. This truck had an interesting ownership history. The original owner put 237k miles on it in 16 years. They then sold it back to the original selling Jeep dealership, which put it to work as their parts running truck. The Jeep dealership kept it an additional 15 years, kept great records and fixed a lot of the annoying stuff like the AC and replaced the clutch. The dealership sold it to a guy in the same town who had a little corner car lot, he used it to tow his boat around. He kept it one year which is when I picked it up.

My first one was the fun story. Myself and 6 of my friends flew from Cleveland, OH out to Los Angeles with enough cash on us to purchase two craigslist vehicles to drive cross country home. The trip was heavily inspired by the Roadkill YouTube series. We pre-gamed before heading out and I had lined up to look at a 30k mile 83 Chevy K5 blazer. It was mint underneath but trashed from the Cali sun on top. Another friend had a Ford Crown Vic in his sights, the paint was still curing on the door when he showed up, and he passed. All of us met for lunch and started looking through Craigslist, at one point a friend handed me phone already dialing someone and said it was a Jeep Comanche. I had no idea what it even was. Regardless I organized a meetup. The seller was super cool, a nice Iranian fellow who owned an off road modification shop in an industrial park. It was an awesome truck, 1988, 176k miles, non-op title due to not passing emissions, the guy just wanted something out of it as he had spent two years trying to make it pass smog. Exactly what we needed, a reliable 4.0L with a 5 speed manual to drive across country. We also looked at a BMW 330Ci, Lexus LS300, and a Mazda Miata. Only ended up buying the Comanche and chose to rent a Yukon Denali to carry everyone else and the luggage home. We had an epic drive home, particularly in Colorado. Had a complete failure of the PCV in Kansas that pumped a few quarts of oil into the airbox. Luckily the small town Kansas auto store around the corner from our Pizza Hut lunch had the three parts we needed on the shelf for a total of $6. Overall, made it back to Erie, PA all 3500 miles with only a 20 minute delay to fix it. Drove it for the summer and sold it on Bring a Trailer, the first Comanche BaT had ever listed. Then, I regretted selling it until I bought my current one 3 years later. This trucks history was all in southern California before I purchased it. I was the 9th owner. If one looked closely at the door there was some logos that said, "World Airways Charter Airlines.". Judging by the front receiver hitch, I think it had been used to push around small airplanes. I sold it to a fellow who wanted a farm truck with 4x4, manual transmission and was narrow to make it through his gates. He was also looking at early Land Rovers. He loves the Comanche and has sent me a few pics of it doing work. He very much wanted a rust free vehicle as he had no intentions on road registering it to keep it out of the salt.

I would have never guessed this was a Comanche with an interior like that. Nicely done.