pizzaman09

It seats such that it covers all the sheet metal down to the bend. Picture shows proper placement.

Closed would mean the coolant overflow tank is sealed and pressurized, the Renix 4.0L is setup as a closed system. Open would mean the coolant overflow tank is vented to atmosphere, the HO 4.0L is setup as an open system. Both setups are doable with a custom bottle but both are very different as one needs to hold pressure.

It slides over. I used the rubber coated handle of a pair of pliers I owned to protect the top edge of it then a small hammer to knock it in place. They should be a tight fit.

I'm not too familiar with the 2.5L system, is it a closed or open system? My general rule of thumb when building cooling system overflow setups is to make sure it's the highest point so that it assists in bleeding.

$100 for four decently nice wheels is a good deal in my book. I spent that much on rusty junk yard steel wheels 15 years ago. If they have tires already they are worth less as you have to get rid of the tires.

This is definitely a mod to add to the future list.

454 is also a heavy engine, possibly more than the 4.0L six. I'd rather a much lighter LS as well if going the Chevy route. Could you make it work, likely, it would fill the engine bay.

I'm personally a fan of just replacing all vacuum lines, that way everything works as intended. Vacuum lines are cheap and easy to replace as they only go from one point to another. I recently replaced half of my vacuum system as part of the cruise control install, as a result of replacing those lines my HVAC now works perfectly. Previously it would change blower vent levels every time I accelerated due to loss of vacuum. Also it has made the vacuum disconnect front axle perfectly reliable.

Yeah, sounds like it is worth it to me. Nothing like having better access to something.

Nice and clean!

I just might do that. I do like the stock look of my truck but really love the HO SporTruck graphics.

If anyone has a source of that stripe, that is the graphic I've always wanted. My brother and I were just discussing the other day about adding the squiggle splash graphic to our Eliminator. Maybe have a custom Eliminator text made up to match the Sportruck text.

That makes good sense. What are you using for under bed rail lights? I already have an unused fog light switch and circuit as my truck appears to be missing the fog lights, and honestly I don't like the tacked on look of them.

How are you guys running your power to the bed to power the under rail lighting?

If you are asking whether it will run, certainly. It's somewhere between 0.5 to 1 inch longer runners. You might notice a slight difference in how the power comes on, per typical engine theory it should have more low end torque at the expense of top end.

Are you confident that your blower motor works? In my experience blower motor problems are either worn motor brushes or a bad fan speed selector switch.

I utilized a set of spade connector spliters on the stock brake switch on my cruise control install. They aren't the tightest fitting connectors.

Good news today, the roads were dry enough to drive the truck and test the cruise control, it works! It does need to be tuned as the variation and aggressiveness is hilarious. In bad news today, my clutch stopped working. Pedal goes to the floor yet the master cylinder is full. I suspect it might have a collapsed soft line that isn't allowing fluid to move to the slave cylinder.

I have to imagine a used head is less expensive than that work.

Looks great, and I'm impressed. Vinyl install is not easy to get perfect. I remember once visiting the Bell Helicopter final assembly plant in Piney Flats, TN. In their paint shop they had guys hand painting all the liveries. When I asked why they didn't just use vinyls, they said that hand painting was easier for all but the most intricate designs. They did beautiful work and supposedly hired just about every good student out of the local tech school body repair class.

I'm willing to be it was just an economic decision, injection molded plastic is far less expensive than matched metal components. You don't have to worry about corrosion, the plastic is kinda self locking. With respect to the sizes, the large one is the standard thread size apparently for speedometer cable drives, the smaller connection allows for the cable to pass through a smaller hole in the firewall.

I decided to flip my shift boot around such that the tall side of the wedge is to the back, and I realized it goes into 5th gear much easier. Which direction is the factory orientation? I always had the tall end to the front as it just looked right to me. Tall end of wedge to back Or tall end of wedge to front?

Some additional cruise control pedal switch thoughts. This is how the clutch switch is oriented and installed. The bracket was very difficult to tighten the bolt up on, a ratcheting 8mm box end wrench saved the day Additionally, I didn't acquire a factory brake light switch with the 4 spade terminal connections. Instead I purchased doorman 85412 and split the outputs. With a little Ox-Gard on all the fittings, it basically looks factory. As a bonus I didn't have to swap out and realign the switch!

So you are saying it might disengage cruise if for instance the t case is not in high range? I'll have to test that.

Ah, so I didn't need to fight for 10 minutes getting it plugged in as I have a manual. That explains why the valve that I got that came out of a manual truck didn't have the plug.