pizzaman09

Just some photos up in the field with friends.

Lol, I'm actually a fan of the one inch white stripe tires. Have a set on my 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight and had a set on my 88 SporTruck. That said, I agree, but a set of white letter all terrain tires would look great on the Eliminator.

Thanks! I believe they are late model XJ Cherokee wheels. I also have the factory 10 hole Eliminator wheels. I'm still trying to decide on tires for them, possibly more off road style or 200 treadwear autocross if I want to go really crazy.

I'm wondering if anyone has a driver's and passenger side mirrors with good working adjustment joysticks. Mine are so worn out that they barely move the mirrors.

Pic dump doing work. Love the 4x4 low range. Don't love the passenger car style tires, distinct lack of mud grip.

I just preordered the new clock panel mount version. Very excited for it once the chip shortage subsides.

Performed the distributor indexing tip yesterday. It unfortunately wasn't all that far off from the factory so likely not much performance to be gained, maybe a degree or two. I will have to find out if performance was gained, all I did yesterday was tow large loads around. Hit the scales at the scrap yard at 8100 lbs.

The replacement expansion tank was much better looking, the molding flash at the split line was considerably less. I am quite pleased with the replacement part. Haven't had much time to work on the Comanche lately, did have to change out the turn signals blinker relay. I also drive a coworker's 2001 Cherokee with a freshly rebuilt engine, and was blown away by the power. I can tell my Renix engine isn't running at peak performance yet. It's not as spunky as the 88 SporTruck I had and clearly not as quick as the 01 I just drove. My next steps are distributor indexing and engine sensor grounds improvement with tps adjustment.

Race cars don't really sell very well as people want vehicles that can be used on the street typically. I'm a fairly active BaT user, I was actually the first person to auction a Comanche on the site. Consistently, the more modified from stock a vehicle is, the less it is typically worth. I think this one sold pretty well, definitely would have considered it if I wasn't working on building a house. I really want to autocross my Comanche, this would have been the perfect one for that.

I personally only ever use Bosch O2 sensors, have found them to be very good quality on my other vehicles. I put a Bosch in my Comanche a few weeks ago an it seems happy. I don't know if it helped as in the same day I found all my manifold bolts loose, so that was a far bigger help.

I put a zip tie or two behind the end where it goes through the pedal. This moved the pedal out and really where I wanted it. The one thing that took me a moment to get used to is not catching the throttle pedal when hitting the brake while carefully backing up to hitch up a trailer. The higher throttle was. It was not an advantage in that one situation.

I should check the vacuum in the truck. I've suspected it is low as the vacuum disconnect axles are very unreliable. I'm still working through the cruiser54 tips, I know I have bad sensor grounds in the engine resulting in an idle about 300 rpm, which won't help vacuum.

Cool! Thanks for the advice. I've seen the discussions on upgraded boosters, I'll check them out.

Had to get a replacement new expansion tank. First one from Rockauto had a crack at the molding seem.

The brakes in my current Comanche are pretty strange. The pedal is awesomely firm but they feel like there is no assist. Stoping force is very low. Does this sound like a bad booster? It's almost identical feeling to my Austin Healey Sprite with fully manual hydraulic brakes. The other Comanche I had years ago had a very soft pedal that basically went to the floor, but it had lots of assist. My current Comanche is a 1990 Eliminator.

Purchased mine just recently, has 252k on the original engine. First owner put 237k on it in 16 years. Then it became a parts runner for the original selling Jeep dealer for 15 years getting few miles but probably beat on. Now I beat on it. 🙂

Thanks! I hadn't studied the lights that closely.

Hmm, interesting thought. I did pop a fuse when first playing with it as I had the hot hooked up to the center incorrectly originally. Maybe I'll investigate if I can figure out how to get it back out of the b pillar trim.

Awesome! I'm up in the other corner of PA near Erie. Everything is rusty here.

To complete my thoughts from earlier, I just got the Euramtec lights installed. Wiring: Black wire goes to outside narrow in, can use original plug. Black with white tracer wire goes to middle pin, can use original plug. Red wire goes to wide pin, need to replace with a 1/4" wide spade plug. Photo of wiring. These are switched differently than the factory ones, middle is the door open light, up or down is always on. There is no always off Strangely I've found the lights work differently on both side of the vehicle. The driver's side when I switch up or down lights up all interior foot well and pillar lights. The passenger side when switched up or down only turns on the passenger light.

Seriously. I think the eye bolts look just terrible.

Welded up some chain hooks for the bumper. I don't understand why one would design a bumper for a ball hitch and have no place for the chains.

Are you certain the wiring system is working correctly? I had the problem that the interior lights were on all the time, ended up finding the driver's door switch wire that had been crushed under a bolt down near the parking brake pedal. Now with the stock light housing, everything works perfectly. I'll let you know about the new lights when I get them.

This is a useful thread, my Euramtec lights are coming in a few days. Thanks for the connector tips.

Thanks to Muncher for selling me a parking brake pedal assembly and release handle, I now have a functional parking brake! Also while down in the driver's foot well, I found the pinched wire that was causing the interior lights to remain on when the doors were closed. Now the foot well and b pillar lights work with the door switches.