pizzaman09

Interesting, so your suggestion is a second layer of blue paper to make it glow a bit more green. I am not sure what it is supposed to look like, I haven't come across a good condition one to look at in person.

No, I haven't seen one but I've used mine to haul loads that should have been moved with a 3/4 ton truck. Love the 6BT engine.

Agreed. Is there an aftermarket setup that draws air from outside the engine bay?

Yes, that way there is sufficient coolant that the Mac tank doesn't suck in a big bubble when it cools down. In theory it can go dry but you could potentially end up introducing air somewhere in the cooling system.

It's a lot of run to run. Cuts well, I've been using it as a brush hog then finish mower. It is basically an old school walk behind Gravely mower/brushhog with a seat mounted in a separate chassis on top that is connected and pivots near the axle. It has left and right brakes so you can lock a wheel and whip it in a circle. It's a Gravely Promaster 50. My grandpa purchased it new sometime in the 80s.

Thanks! This is the sort of link I was looking for: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

I've done 1,3,5-8, 11-14, 18, 22, 28, and 37. Been meaning to do 4 and 2 doesn't apply as mine is a 1990. The sensor ground tip with number 6 definitely made a difference, I performed the TPS adjustment at the same time. Biggest improvement thus far has been tightening manifold bolts.

Eh, it still has a gap, most magneto systems will throw a spark given any appreciable gap. Just for fun, a photo of the Gravely I've been playing with.

I am so jealous of your paint scheme. That is exactly the color and graphics I was hoping to do. Looks like it will clean up well, looking forward to how it turns out.

Updated the head unit to a new JVC KD-72BT replacing the barely working JVC KD-S670 that was previously installed. This one matches the dash much better as it's black instead of silver, the user interface is much improved, and my twin brother and I can each pair our phones to it. All quite exciting. Sounds brilliant.

A lot of this makes sense. Particularly the diff ratio. Given the power to weight ratio of these trucks, I expected to be able to get to 60mph in under 10 seconds, it's more like 13 seconds. I did like the sound of the Banks header, someday when I have the time I'd love to pick one up and put it in. Are there any sensor outputs I can check? I have been searching and can't find a master list of output voltages or resistances, I just feel the engine isn't running optimally yet.

The 88 SporTruck was a manual, the Cherokee an auto. So the diff ratio could make sense for the auto difference. Exhaust looks to be all new behind the cat with a Magnaflow muffler. The cat might be original, it certainly doesn't look very new. Come to think of it, the 88 SporTruck had a set of Banks headers and a new cat, likely needed to pass CA inspection where I purchased it.

I've had the exact same experience with the Rockauto tanks. First one split at the seam and leaked all over my new distributor. Replacement one had a leaky cap so I installed the non leaky original, that caused it to split at the seam on the driver's side. I ended up using some high quality acrylic two part adhesive made by my employer to fix the cracked barbed fitting in the original circa 1990 tank. It works great. The Mac tank looks great, I will purchase one if the factory tank goes.

235 75 r15, the 88 SporTruck had the same.

If one stays in the fuel rail, a straight pick will get it out real easily. Make sure you have 6 o-rings accounted for before installing new ones. Otherwise, it's an easy job, I did my injectors one at a time when I upgraded to 4 holes. Just popped the rail back and did them on top of the manifold, expect to cover everything in fuel. Give it a minute to evaporate before restarting, check for leaks prior to and just after starting.

I have a 90 Eliminator with the Renix 4.0L, AX15 and 4x4. Since purchasing it two months ago I have made great improvements to the power it makes catching up on maintenance and following Cruiser's excellent tips. It runs well but I can tell it just isn't as fast as the 88 SporTruck with the 4.0L I had and just the other day I drove an 01 Cherokee which felt like a rocket in comparison. I'm looking for suggestions on things to look into. The truck has 253k miles What I've done: Tightened loose header bolts Fixed sensor grounds Calibrated TPS Indexed Distributor New distributor, plug wires, plugs Checked compression, ranged between 120 and 135psi New Bosch O2 sensor Fixed coolant leaks New air filter Cleaned throttle body and idle control valve, adjusted gap Upgraded injectors, probably Chinese knock offs of the recommend Volvo injectors. What I know I should do: Clean CPS, possibly advance it and check signal strength Clean coil connections What else?

Clean is key. I was looking for a stock height one, which is surprisingly hard to find. Ended up buying one with 250k miles but was super clean save for some holes in the driver's foot well. It needed a significant amount of tune up, but after going through cruisers tips, it runs quite well. If you can find a clean chassis with electricals that aren't super funky and it has the factory options you want, then buy it.

Received my interior carpets from Raybuck! Ordered their 807 Dark Gray. It's a hair darker than my factory charcoal interior, I really like it. Eventually plan to have the full interior refinished. Foot well carpets were added more to add a layer of protection to the floor. Also a photo next to my Coworker's very nice 01 Cherokee with 225k miles.

That's a nice little machine. I didn't realize that FMC owned Bolens. Good luck fixing it up, I am a fan of using older lawn tractors. I've recently picked up my grandpa's old Gravely Promaster 50. It had sat for 10 years. A new fuel filter and a fresh battery and it fired right up.

Make sure you are on the compression stroke when you set the crank to TDC. Just as cruisers tips say. It's easy to accidentally be 180 degrees out on the distributor indexing if you have this wrong. Also, I found when doing the distributor indexing, that it was easy to be a tooth off on the distributor and it was hard to get right as the gears are helical.

That thought definitely crossed my mind. I figured if it didn't melt the original plastic, it wouldn't burns the paper. Most plastics melt a little over 200 deg F, paper auto ignites around 450 deg F.

Thanks! I wasn't aware I had a Dana 44 rear axle, I just assumed it was a Dana 35. I'll have to see if I can identify it by a visual.

1990 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 4.0L, AX15, NP231, Dana 30 Front, Dana 44 Rear, Short Wheelbase Build date: 11/89 Odometer: 253k and counting Location: North West Pennsylvania Status: Daily driver / farm truck Unique portions: Has all the cabin cooling options, AC, vent windows, and sliding rear window. Otherwise it's a pretty normal Eliminator interior with buckets and center console that is fairly worn. All interior lighting works including vanity mirrors. Beefy after market rear bumper with a 3500 lb towing capacity. Still has the original rubber protector under the engine. Do have the original 10 hole Eliminator wheels that need to be refinished. Tailgate fits perfectly, very straight truck. It spent the previous 15 years of it's life as a parts runner for the Jeep dealership that originally sold it. Missing fog lights. My twin brother and I are the current owners.

Additionally, I've completed the dash ground upgrade and blower motor ground upgrade. I think the dash ground has significantly improved my occasional squealing radio issue.

Fixed the lettering in the 4x4 shift indicator. The original was missing the white within the lettering. A replacement that Muncher generously gave me had better lettering but no brush. I figured a piece of clear double sided tape and some white printer paper would do well and it has.