pizzaman09

I have a friend with a new Bronco, perfect spec, 2 door manual hardtop. I wouldn't even consider trading it for my Comanche. It's a good vehicle, but it's super refined feeling to drive, also known as boring. I do love the look though. The Craigslist truck appears to be a case of putting too much money into parts and wanting some back out. Looks capable though.

I would take a Cybertruck any day over the abomination that is mid 2000s BMWs. They took what was possibly the best looking understated lineup of any auto manufacturer in the late 90s and ruined every vehicle with terrible headlights, and flame surfacing. I am a fan of angular designs or very clean designs.

NAPA tends to be the type of place that would cary such a thing.

You might consider a drain tube from the top side fitting, in case it decides to overflow at least your distributor won't get soaked.

The Volvo 746 injectors are the recommendation and what I went with. Cruiser has a good write-up: https://cruiser54.com/?p=438 I went with cheap eBay knock offs of the 746 injectors and couldn't be happier. I have much smoother idle and a bit better torque over all. Changing the injectors didn't help the longish cranking I have before firing, but it doesn't bother me and has never not started.

I had my twin brother review the photos, he is a design engineer for Cummins. He thinks based on the photos that what you are looking at is corrosion because there is no indication of overheating of the bearing shells. The other possibility is the bearing clearances were too tight but corrosion seems more likely given the situation that it sat for 5 years.

Looks like you are getting closer to the smoking gun. Something isn't going to look good when you get that apart.

Sometimes you just luck out! Are the 2.5L engines interference engines?

I may suggest you preemptively replace your balancer bolt with a new grade 8 bolt just because of how much you've torqued on it.

Happy Christmas!

Some awesome progress. I spent most of my Christmas day working on my MJ as well since it is unseasonably 30 deg warmer than normal today.

Another item checked off the list today was installing a new parking brake cable from the pedal to the splitter. It appears a year and a half ago when I purchased the cable I got a long bed cable instead of a short bed cable. Other than having to move the rubber grommet down the cable 6 inches everything went smoothly. There is just a bit extra of an S bend to the cable under the driver's seat.

lockquote widget I'm not a very political person either but I do agree the sticker is wonderfully vintage. A few years ago I saw an 80s vintage beige Mercedes diesel driving on the highway in Ohio, it was a rusty car in terrible shape. What was amazing about it was, what was clearly a Regan Bush sticker in the rear window that had been there since the 80s.

I've been working on stopping the leak in my driver's side vent window. I found that stuffing the original seal with some soft foam weather stripping does a great job at keeping it sealed but there was one area at the front corner that still leaked due to the step at the end of the metal mount This is the before image. The packaging tape is there to allow me to prevent RTV from getting stuck to that part of the window. I used some 90min rtv, this is some impressive stuff. I tried to find something it wouldn't bond to and I was unsuccessful. I tried car wax and silicone oil, both allowed it to bond right through. Globed the rtv all over the corner. Cut the curred rtv to shape with a sharp blade. Final seal, no more gap against the squishy foam I have stuff in the seam. I quite like the vent windows so to me if I can stop the leaks, I'd like to keep them. Lucky for the truck, it found a spot in the barn this year so it doesn't have to spend all winter in the driveway covered in snow.

Ok, have you also worked on the sump then, trying to fill it will some of the magic juices? Is this a manual? Could the clutch be seized and the transmission in gear? Could the starter be jammed against the ring gear?

If it's the distributor, you could try taking off the timing chain and seeing if the rotating assembly or the camshaft is the issue. It looks way too clean to be rings. Is the sump full of liquid to the pint that the bottom end is basically hydro locked?

Quadrajets are fun, nothing like hitting the secondaries and hearing them scream.

My experience with Wildwood brakes is there are just a handful of different calipers with a massive pile of adapters to mount them to every application imaginable. It sounds alike you've got it thought out correctly. I'd recommend fitting a caliper before opening all of your boxes and just make sure it will all bolt up and fit over the rotor correctly.

I highly recommend Oxgard on connections like these. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-1-oz-Ox-Gard-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/4514334 I can't take credit for the recommendation, I believe I read about this stuff on one of Cruiser's posts.

My 99 BMW M3 has the same setup as your dad's Galaxy. It's a simple little line mounted below the steering rack where it gets good airflow. I think the power steering through the radiator transmission cooling ports makes sense.

I ordered mine from Raybuck and am quite happy with them. Good fit. I ordered color samples and found one that was close, though maybe a shade dark. https://raybuck.com/product/1986-1992-jeep-comanche-floor-mat-2pc-fm34f/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAhJWsBhAaEiwAmrNyq78RTNwRI6iLLEGSgdIUwtPI2q6d9tE6CQmQJz7o6_Ys1WWGEdB68hoCDj8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Start with the easy things I'd say, check that nothing is rubbing on the drive shafts and confirm the fluid levels are correct in the transmission and transfer case. I kind of agree that the sound could be a worn out throw out bearing, but the sound should change when you push in the clutch.

When ever I've had cooling system issues on my Renix Comanche, I've just topped off the tank and let it circulate to get the air back to the expansion tank. Checked it a few times in the coming days and topped it off until it no longer needed more topping off. That said the most important thing is to make sure the system holds pressure and no longer leaks.

This is pretty cool,I'd be interested to hear if you get it all to work out. BMW used fiber optics for their lighted door handles and the original headlight halos back in the early 2000s. I had always said that they must have let the interns loose on choosing lighting technology for their cars. The 2002 BMW M5 I used to own had, LED brake lights, xenon low beams, halogen high beams, fiberoptic headlight halos and everything else was incandescent. The only tech they were missing was Neon, which they used on the contemporary Z8 roadster.

Interesting article. I personally think the wide body kits make it look a lot more plain than the original factory fender flares which are one of my favorite parts of the Comanche's design.